I think I just might have to! 
Of you just ask yourself if you think you’re personally going to have more issues with the less tested (in a unicycle application) crank interface, than you’ve had with ISIS over the last decade (basically none).
There have been numerous discussions on here around creaks with Q-Axle over the years (despite its small market share), and from my disassembly and reassembly of my Q-Axle setup, I’m to start with not convinced that the hub splines are close enough tolerance to what’s machined on the cranks. Even when greased, I can rotate my (brand new) Zero-Q cranks back and forth between touching each side of the splines all the way up to the point of tightening the crank on where it’s the grip on the axle stopping me from doing so.
With the constant torque reversal that we have on unicycles the general experience of them being fine on bikes doesn’t really fill me with confidence.
With ISIS cranks, the physical act of tightening up a softer crank onto a harder axle deforms the interface very slightly. If you overdo it (not having any/the right spacers) then you’re likely going to have issues, but if you get it right I think that’s a benefit as it makes the fit absolutely perfect.
Once a Q-Axle crank starts to move and starts to deform the interface then that’s it, there’s no way to fix it. If you get a bit of loosening on an ISIS crank, you get a slightly smaller spacer and it’s fine for a good few more years.
I think we probably need a thread for any further discussion on this matter though.
So far I personally haven’t heard any complains of the durability of the Q-Axle interface and it’s already around for nearly a decade (2012).
Also think so:)
What I have noticed with the q-axle cranks is that they have a maximum length of 145mm and you have to order them from Europe. You can get ebike cranks instead, but the set I have has much shorter splines than the quax cranks my unicycle came with. I’d guess the splines on my Shimano ebike cranks are about 6mm long with the remainder of the axle hole of the cranks being smooth. This didn’t seem to cause any problems, but it didn’t look to be super strong either.
If Quax cranks were readily available in a wide variety of lengths, then I’d say they’re probably the better option.
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In Europe anything longer than 150 mm isn’t popular at all. We are ‘short’ crank people I guess. Me with 137 mm for Muni even belong to the longer crank people in Europe.
When I got my first 36" with 150 mm cranks, it felt way too long even for Muni riding with it, rode very happy with 114 mm cranks also light Muni for a few years. Got a disc brake and 117/137 Spirits 2 years ago and 137 mm seems to be a nice size for Muni, didn’t wish for any longer cranks. Can ride come amazing steep stuff with it.
And I believe it’s just a myth that longer cranks (150+ especially 170 mm) are better for climbing. You might be able to ride steeper stuff, but on not extreme climbs climbing it is not smooth at all and you can’t build up speed and especially when standing up you just tend to make half rotations switching your weight from one side to another, what isn’t that energy efficient in my eyes.
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Maybe you are right for climbing, but a friend of mine, coming from a mtb background is riding 27,5"-145 and can ride much more faster than me on my 36"-125. Something like he’s used to long cranks, so no issue. I think he’ll post on FB on Sunday 'cause tomorrow he will ride a 100km XC Saturday on his 27,5"! But I think a superhuman could not be considered a real example
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I don’t really agree with you.
I really like to ride on road climb my 36" (RGB frame) with a carbon rim. When I assembled it, the 32 hole QAXLE hub was not available, but I wouldn’t have taken it anyway because of the limited choice of QAXLE cranks.
Now I have a nimbus ISIS 32h hub with triple cranks which I love (I first used nimbus 100/125/150 and now M4O 117/138/159).
I don’t use the longest hole every day, in fact it’s the one I use the least… But I know it is the one I will use if I want to ride a long road climb (niche pratice okay…)
You talk about standing on the pedals… can you last 1 hour in this position? (I know you’re very good at muniing and especially uphill but… after a while it burns your legs).
With 150+ cranks, it’s easier to stay seated on the saddle because:
1/ you have more torque
2/ the leg movement is wider and allows you to use more muscle fibres (with training you can develop more power).
In my opinion, being able to pedal smoothly while sitting on the saddle during a long climb is a question of training.
If one day QAXLE cranks come out in 110/135/160, I hope there will be a 32 hole QAXLE hub left for me. 
EDIT: I recommended the 36" carbon rim to several French unicyclists, and considering that they don’t plan to do long road climb, I recommended them the QAXLE hub.
You are probably right, being that I’m still in the learning phase and am still sorting out what works for me and what doesn’t. What I can say though is that it has taken me about a week of practicing one hour a day on 137mm cranks to get back to what I was capable of a week ago on 170mm’s.
I like the 170’s on the 36er, but on the 27.5 they just felt too slow. I’m going to continue practicing on the 137’s for another couple of weeks before I make any decisions as to whether I go back to longer cranks or not.
One thing I have noticed that surprised me is that my 9 year old daughter is faster using 150mm cranks on her 24" muni than with 125mm. When I was riding my 36er with her she simply could not keep up with me on the climbs with her cranks at 125mm. She had told me that the shorter cranks were slower and I didn’t believe her, because she has a tendency sometimes to try something for a few minutes and then condemn it, but after a week of her riding with the cranks at 125mm it was obvious that she was on to something.
I’ve played around with various crank sizes on a 36" and my thoughts are 110 are great for all round ungeared cruising on paved surfaces and with practice I can scale all the hills in my area so long as I keep the cadence up and pedal smoothly. 127 is a good size for cross country on gravel and dirt roads as it gives a little more control with slightly less effort then 110.
150 is a great size for scaling very steep hills and great manoeuvrability off road on grass and uneven terrain. I can also hop better on this size and mount on just about any terrain be it uphill, grass or dirt with relative ease. Not to mention idling is possible to learn on this crank size.
165 cranks I’ve found to be just too long for my liking I didn’t find I could do anything that much better on this size compared to 150 aside from riding over some of roughest terrain I could find. I had this size on my guni initially and just changed it down to 150 and that’s improved geared and ungeared riding for me. Eventually I feel that 137 might be the perfect size for my guni but for now I’ll stick with 150. I’ve noticed with with 165 I tend to sway a bit side to side while riding in both geared/ungeared and that’s lessened with 150’s.
I may go shorter than 170 on the 36er in the future, but for now, I like the control they give me as a beginner.
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I’m far too lazy to move my pedals and seatpost, so I’ve stuck with 127mm for the past five years or so.
Part of me fancies the idea of a lightweight 36er with dual hole 127/150 cranks (127 for road, 150 for muni). But I already have a perfectly good unicycle, and again, I would probably be too lazy to change crank length very often anyway.
Better sooner than later. Try 125. Just go for some shortish rides on flat ground. You will improve much faster by the challenge
Actually that would be an interesting poll to conduct. I have the feeling that most riders with double or triple hole cranks don’t change them that often.
Multiple crank holes is a simple gearing system with pros and cons, as far as I see it. If it’s windy or hard going and I know I will be going for a while, I will change crank hole, no problem. I dislike messing with the seat height if I don’t have to.
But I won’t change it multiple times doing a ride relative short ride; say, under 15km. Or just for a gravel section.
This is where gears come in (I think, as I haven’t tried it). Or just gear really 
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Hi Roger
I’m curious to know why Nimbus discontinued the Nightrider Impulse 36er?
I love mine and it feels bomb-proof.
I started on my 36er with 170s and quickly moved to 150s which still feel very controlled.
I’m after some dual hole 125/150s but for now I’m on 145s which still give decent control but also a nice little lift in speed.
I did switch to 150’s, but I found my climbing ability went down somewhat. To me, 170’s feel a bit too long on most unicycles, just sort of slow and clumsy, but on a 36er I like them and for muni they would be my first choice.
Right now I’ve still got the 150’s on it and no plans to switch back in the near future.
I was just browsing unicycles on municycle.com and notices this KH36 of more than a 1000 euros.
787mm (36 Inch) Kris Holm Unicycle
Is that uni really worth it to be 400 eur more expensive than the Nimbus Nightfox or the Nimbus Oracle of 700 eur?
Is the KH really of better quality? Also noticed that it is just shy of 8kg where the Nimbuses are slightly lighter.
What about in use, is the KH 300 euros more comfy to ride than the Nimbus unis.
I think it is a steep price to pay for a uni.
Kh has Always been more expensive. I guess you are paying for the name.