I have a qu-ax 36" that is quite old at this point and I would like to improve it a bit,
My idea was to change the tire to a lighter one, the current one is a “Wheel TA” branded one.. so maybe change to a Nimbus Nightrider? Lighter tubes?
Change the sadle to another one, the other day I did almost 20km at that was the biggest issue. Here I don’t have an idea of what to buy, I think I wanted something wider?
And something I don’t have that clear is changing the cranks, any input here? Current one’s are 150mm and my idea is to have this one for “long” rides up until I can do a 60km cycling path around the city I live in.
I’ll also try to find answers to my questions here as I’m sure I’m not the only one with the issues I described
The TA tire is a really, really heavy one. Some people really do like such heavy tires, but I’m not one of them. I find lighter tires much easier to ride: they are easier to steer, easier to accelerate, easier to climb with. The same goes for the tubes. My current best setup includes a Nimbus NightRider Lite tire and an ultra-light 36er TPU tube from 36pollici.
The saddle is in fact a pain point. You should try a Kris Holm Fusion Freeride or Street saddle, or a Qx Eleven. They are usually the most recommended saddles.
However, a saddle alone can’t make your bottom feel great. You’ll probably have to get a handle - KH T-bar, URSLI bar or Mad4One handle saddle; the choice is yours! This helps relieve stress on your bottom and crotch
Regarding the cranks, I feel like 150 is way too long for a cruising 36er. I may be wrong, but it seems that most people here use 125 or shorter cranks on their ungeared unis.
Just saw the tpu tubes of 36pollici, price is steep but the difference is like 500g from normal ones in other sites so seems worth it. About the tire yeah, I actually never removed it from the wheel (no punctures in years on this one miraculously…) but it feels heavy to move.
My idea was to try 127 or 114, will try to reason about this. When I first got this thing I needed them because it was kinda the only way for me to reach the pedals but now that’s not a problem.
About the sadle yeah I thought about that as in the last kms I was just riding with my weigfht in the small handle in front of the seat xD, so a handle of some sort but not a massive one would be useful for sure.
thanks and actually no more questions just thought that stuff like this will make me actually wanna ride the thing more, and be more of a part of this forum as since I joined I rarely peep
I wouldn’t assume that’s a coincidence. The tire is so thick that nothing can get through it
You may have more issues with lighter tires, as they may be more prone to puncture. That’s something to know. However, I have not punctured my TPU tube since it has been installed more than 2 years ago, while riding in the city (lots of broken glass!) or on the light trails. So, works great in a NightRider lite tire
The others said it already. My 36" is a Nimbus Night Rider pro and just this year I had a flat, only because the valve came off. Now I have a shrader turbe which seems more solid.
I’d say the seat is the most important. I prefer the KH Fusion Freeride saddles. They are very comfy. Nimbus gel saddles are ok for shorter rides, but eventually become uncomfy.
As for the cranks. I like the 150s, but I also ride those on the 26" uni. Then because the 36 wheel is bigger, it will automatically go faster. Oh yeah I was thinking if you don’t know you want 114mm or 125mm cranks, why not find dual hole cranks. Then you can always switch back and forth. They are slightly more expensive, but cheaper than 2 sets of cranks. I take it you have ISIS cranks?
I’ll add my vote for a Kris Holm Fusion Free Ride saddle. I added a Nimbus Air Saddle Cover to my Kris Holm Fusion Free Ride saddle, and I can’t imagine a “cushier” ride.
The frame is an older Nimbus frame, and the handlebar is a “Nimbus T7” handlebar from the same time period as the frame.
I bought the frame on eBay, and then @mindbalance reached out to me and said, “I have a handlebar that I think you might like.” He was correct, so the handlebar made its way from England to the USA.
The TA is a great tyre except for the weight. The biggest upgrade in terms of performance will be to lower your rotating weight, so the TPU pollici tube and Nightrider lite tyre is an easy upgrade for crisp handling and acceleration. After that you’re looking at a carbon rim. If you are, then you might as well build a whole new wheelset.
Every 250-500g reduction outer wheel weight will feel like a step up in gear (ie 100mm cranks will feel like 110s, 110s will feel like 125s).
You could get double or triple hole cranks to allow you a few options, although they tend to be heavier than regular cranks.
Handlebars are helpful to spead your weight. Either a Mad4One long handle saddle or KH T bar works. The Mad4One is stiffer and stronger while the T-bar is more adjustable.
I like the Impact Naomi saddle best, of all the regular saddles. The base is also stiffer as it is fibreglass reinforced.
I put 125/150 mm multihole square taper penny farthing cranks on my coker. Ordinary square taper steel cranks are so cheap I would just buy a set of 125 mm and perhaps also 100 mm and just try them out.
