nope : ) no reason for them at all. I have mine on because on the Addict saddle, they come out of the saddle and have a rounded nut on them, rather than screwing the allen bolts into the saddle.
Yes, remove them! You don’t want to be lugging around 50g that you don’t have to. That is one weigh-saving feature of the Shadow set-up.
I’ve got a late prototype but have not been able to ride it a lot yet. For starters though, I love it. It is the first off-the-shelf handlebar that I have really wanted to use as it can get long and low enough for my desired position (using the curved T part pointing down and with maximum length out of the front; with the pivotal splines set at level (not tipped back)), and it is stiff and light too.
It doesn’t matter that you can’t adjust it without removing the seat bolts - once you’ve put it on you don’t change the angle anyway. It is dead easy to remove the seat with the allen bolts in the 2009+ KH seats, but just a bit more fiddly with the loose 10mm nuts as in older saddles (which I have).
I can’t tell if you’re mocking my 50g weight savings, but your review carries more weight than that, anyway, pun intended.
The advantages of the Shadow over my current, homemade handlebars look to be numerous and wondrous.
My combo of the stoker-stem, “L” stem, and the 5-inch handlebar remnant all had issues with tightness, swiveling or turning to the side if I pull too hard. Each of my many attachment points are extra weight compared to the one-piece Shadow, and the Shadow will stay aligned with the seat by design.
Also, I wasn’t content with my brake placement, and the Shadow will offer more options for that, as well as a place for a Ken Looi bell, a spot for a water bottle, and more length, as you say, for a lower riding position. I can eliminate the seat rail adapter, those 50 grams of nuts and bolts, and the seat will be stiffer, too.
When I receive the new handle, I will weigh new and old setups, but I think the new setup will be much lighter and more adjustable, so I can place it just so, and find my “happy place”.
This looks like a seriously viable option for replacing my KH Tbar which I don’t like for a few reasons.
The main one is that it’s really flexy and even with the new reinforced piece it still feels like it will rip at the weld any second.
Can anyone comment on the flex of the new nimbus bar compared to the tbar?
@steveyo. I use half a stoker stem in my current handle setup too. Except I have an old bike fork in there instead of your L stem. I’m currently looking for a stoker stem which fits a 27.2 post like yours though. If you weren’t so far away I might have made you an offer
I think once a few people have had chance to test the new handle a T bar Vs Shadow thread would be useful.
The T-bar is the only handlebar that’s out right now that I haven’t ridden. but I can tell you it’s much less flexy than the T7. The pi bar is by far the most rigid of all of them, but some would argue it’s overbuilt. I actually like the pi bar, just wish it were longer.
Shadow handle on 36" Impulse
This is my first and only experience riding with a handle (also my first 36er) and I can’t imagine riding without it. My left hand never leaves the handle except on tight turns when I need to twist the seat with my thighs. It took a lot of practice to train myself to grab the front of the seat on my 24" MUni on the rare occasion I needed to. But, on my 36er, it’s automatic, second nature, more comfortable, and the only way I can ride in a straight line. I love it! It feels like (no flex) an essential part that “just belongs” rather than an afterthought. Do NOT cut off any length before you try it first. I am using the curved section inserted “all the way” in so it could be 4 inches longer. I was out of the game for 20 years so I am an aspiring novice but, with the right (not cheap) equipment, I am already riding 5 miles per day in my second week.
Are you using it curved up or down?
I’ll have my reivew up soon…
I have a KH handlebar system, used to have the Pi bar and now received my Shadow handlebar Saturday… but UDC forgot to include the bar ends. I think I’m going to wait until they’re in so I can just build up the Shadow handle bar to a spare KH freeride air seat and do a side by side comparison of the KH bar and the Nimbus.
Really?.. forgetting the bar ends???
lol, went by the shop, and they looked around for the bar ends for 10 minutes. They haven’t gotten them all organized yet. Someone may have gotten a little hasty, couldn’t find them, went off and someone shipped you what was there. They’re on the box on the shelf beside them 2 shelves up O:-)
Any one have pictures of the curved bar I keep reading about?
Look on the page 1 of this thread, or at the UDC website pics.
I rcvd my Shadow handle today. I have a KH uni, so I needed a shim to go from the 27.2 down to 25.4 seat post which is included with the handle. Got that, then I needed to cut the seat post, and, skillfully and/or luckily, estimated the new length correctly so as not to cut twice.
I had a bit of trouble getting the KH seat bolts through the holes in the shadow seat frame. They were barely long enough to get the nut back on the bolt threads. In the end I went to the hardware store and got longer bolts, which made it easier. Then, after unsticking the KH foam, there was one bolt which kept pushing up into the foam and spinning instead of tightening. Arg!
Then I did a quick test ride with the full-length straight bar, and the seat set horizontally. Then I raised the seat a centimeter, and did another. Hmm…something is loose. OK, it’s the single bolt which attaches the seat frame to the post. This is an opportunity for an improvement, because to tighten this nut, one needs to remove the seat, the repetition of which I was getting sick. I put on a little lock-tite and cranked it down but good.
Now it’s all set, though, and I really like the length and rigidity of the bars, and the brake is easy to place in a convenient spot. All the integrated hardware is a vast improvement, making the seat/bar system nice and stiff, and lighter than my previous homemade bars.
I’m psyched to ride it more than just around the block, and I’m wondering about leverage when climbing hills, of which I do a lot. More later.
after riding it a bit, I’ve found that it’s easier to climb and descend with a shorter bar, but I like the longer one much better overall.
Thanks. Pictures on front page of this thread gave me everything I need.
curved up or down? kind of a personal question! don’t ya think?
Curved up with the brake lever all the way out on the end just like the picture on the UDC site. The two posts seem to be doing a good job protecting the brake lever when I UPD and I have the double clamp on the seat post just tight enough to prevent movement but not so tight that the handlebar won’t bend (it just twists the seat and all) when I UPD.
Shadow handlebar pivotal seatpost “high tensile bolt”
Same issue with the stock Nimbus seat on my Impulse. The first time I removed/replaced the seat frame which I have to do WAY too often (more on that later) I thought for sure one of my seat bolt holes was stripped before I figured out that it was the foam pushing it back out.
This is driving me NUTS (pardon the pun) but the pivotal seatpost that allows for 4 x 6 degree adjustments via an integral high tensile bolt" comes loose after even the most gentle UPD and ends my ride because I am afraid that I am going to strip those teeth that allow you to tilt the seat back and forth. I prefer back tilt but put it right in the middle this last time in hopes that will keep that “high tensile bolt” from coming loose yet again. Beginning to wish it was non-adjustable like my old Nimbus 24" MUni which was rock solid. If it is loose, the shadow handlebar moves up and down while riding. Any tips? I am tightening that bolt as tight as I can but it keeps working it’s way loose!
Nimbus Shadow Handle Instructions
The kind folks at UDC sent me an email with this docx file attached so I thought I would share. I can’t open docx files on my PC so I am using my wife MacBook. Bear with me in case the attachment is not attached to my post.
David: I put a little blue lock-tite on that bolt, but I haven’t really hammered it with a hard UPD yet, so not sure how well that works. Hopefully , Roger from UDC UK will chime in here with a recommendation.
I’m having this issue, about 2 weeks of riding and it’s come loose, not one single drop since I got it. . . not terribly loose, but anything bugs me : P ocd + 1/2