Couple more thoughts on the Oregon:
The large size of the Oregon may make smaller riders work harder, esp in off camber situations. There are other fat tire choices, but the Larry seems to be the best so far. I tried a BFL and it was worse on off camber trails; the wider tired on the same 65 mm LM rim made the tire crown. I played with a Nate yesterday, met a guy who had one on the back of his Pugsley and a Larry on the front. The Nate has a central mini chevron pattern which would likely worsen the “autostear” problems, kinda like the original Surly fat tire: Endomorph.
If you are having problems with the tire having a “mind of it’s own”, I strongly recommend dropping the pressure as low as you can go without rim strike. A smaller person, say 125-150# could esilly run as low as 6psi. It also helps to run a better tube, I’m running a 26 x 3.0 Duro DH tube, and though it’s heavy, it helps support the sidewall and lets me run lower pressures safely. In order to run the shraeder valve you need increase the valve hole in the rim, which is easilly done.
The stock Nimbus Bengal brake master is not my fav and resides unused on a shelf. It has all the problems Terry mentioned, which is why I use a Shimano. I sorta wish they’d spec the Oregon without the brake option as some folks may not even need a brake, esp with long cranks; this would also allow buyers to pick their own brake.
It’s very curious to see Nimbus using the bearing cap brake mount, makes me wonder if they will use it for all their new munis vs a frame mount. Anyone?
Oh, and shorter cranks would also reduce wandering, maybe a 150mm Venture?
I’ll be pulling out the Oregon when I get home and changing cranks, so I’ll let folks know how that changes the wandering, though I have to admit that I don’t find the Oregon to wander so much as insist on holding a line. Hmmm, that reminds me, the Oregon likes a lot of body language and once on a line it wants to be ridden straight down the fall line, so setting up for a line on DH is a bit more technical. This is in part due to the
large tire height as much as it is the width.
@ Anton: the Oregon was designed around a fat tire, it is for snow, mud, and riding over obstacles with maximum shock absorption. It is not meant to be agile as there are many, many other munis that are agile due to having smaller tires; and those smaller tirs are nowhere near as good in mud and snow. Think of tires as being the single biggest difference between munis, so width and heighth dimensions, tread design, casing design, wheel size, all make a muni specific or “better” for some uses than others. Is the useful range of application for the Oregon narrower? I don’t think so and neither does the designed (Josh) or my son who both ride an Oregon most of the time. My son is 6’4", and Josh is no shorty, so height probably plays a part in what they like. My son considers my 29 x 2.4 to a sports car while he calls the Oregon a 4 x 4. I use the Oregon for snow and mud when a bigger footprint is best for traction, and what i notice most is that it sucks up technical terrain that would stop a 29er.
I’d like to see the frame narrowed so it would be more practical for wheel swap, say to a 26 x 3 or a 29 x 2.5, that would make it more usable over a range, but as it sits the frame is very wide for the Larry and way to wide for a 3" tire.
Also keep in mind that the Larry is not just wider, but taller, with nearly the same diameter as a tall 29er tire like the Ardent or Dissent, so it rides big and fast. When Surly started the fat tire craze, they had in mind to build a fat 24" and went as far as to create a 24" LM rim, but the 24" tire was never molded. Such a tire; 24 x 3.8" would be on par with a Gazz, but less bulky.