the title says it all which one is lighter the nimbus frame or the original coker frame, I would gues that since the orignal coker frame would be lighter because it seems like there is less metal used but the nimbus is (I think) made of a lighter metal and has smaller tubing. so which is lighter? all help is apreciated. I’m getting a coker and want to put it on a diet (I’m bugeting for the diet so I need to to know which is lighter so I can buy that one) I’d also like to know what the bets/lightest parts would be for the coker (I figured I would ask this because I was too lazy to look for the Diet coker threads) All help is apreciated Thanks
The current one I have is the normal one, non-nimbus. It’s pretty light, but I still think the nimbus is lighter because the rods that connect the axle to the top are lighter and thinner because there are more of them so it’s more stable.
So I think the nimbus is lighter and, not exactly stronger, there both pretty strong, but it’s probably better.
That’s my opinion on a frame.
It might be lighter, but I think it’s stronger as well…for one, the stock anything usually isn’t that great, and also the description on UDC makes it sound really super good!
I recently bought a new Nimbus 36" (the blue one with the V-shaped frame). I weighed the frame separately on a professional electronic scale, it is 1142.75 grams (excluding C-cups and associated bolts and washers). I don’t know about the Coker frame weight.
Weight of coker: 8.74kg
Weight of nimbus: 8.77kg
These unis are identical apart fomr the frame, so it seems there’s nothing in it.
It is stronger, and more importantly stiffer, and you can easily fit a brake on it.
The whole point of that design of frame is primarily for strength. Well, by strength, I mean rigidity, so it won’t flex or twist when you’re riding it hard.
I suspect that it is probably lighter than the stock Coker frame, although don’t have any figures to back that up.
You’ve got C-cups? Photos, please.
The Nimbus frame is heavier, I’ve got the weights somewhere but I can’t find them. The Qu-Ax frame is somewhere around 800-900 grams I think.
if you could find the weights that would be great thanks Dustin, I’m looking into doing a huge ride sometime in the near future for a cancer foundation around the US and Canada and am wanting a light but strong coker so I can take better/heavier/more gear with me… I have no idea when I’m going to do this I want to get in shape first and be able to get at least 60 miles a day and not be completely wiped out the next morning… who was it that did the huge ride around the US on a coker? I may start a thread on it later.
The weight difference between the two is probably negligable in relationship to the weight of the whole cycle. Using the stainless steel spokes and airfoil rim is going to have a much larger impact on weight and performance.
Three reasons to get the Nimbus. less flex, magura mounts, and larger diameter seat tube (I’ve broken 3 22.2mm seat posts on my coker). Even if it’s a few grams heavier (I don’t know the weights), I think these factors override weight.
Lars Clauson (www.onewheel.org) did the ride you’re thinking of.
thanks for the link, and thanks again to everyone who has replied to this thread…
I have ridden the Nimbus frame for a 30 mile ride at BUC and I actually found it more flexy than my standard steel frame, probably it’s not the frame but the lower tire pressure and the different tire the unicycle was running. You’re not going to notice a lot of difference in flex anyhow. If you really want a brake you can easily install a calliper brake on a standard frame, it’s even described in Uni issue 1 I think, it might be issue 2. Benefits of a caliper brake is a stronger cable and less maintainance. I don’t see how you break seatposts on a coker, I have a reputation for wrecking seatposts on my trials and have never bent or broken anything on my coker. Putting that aside, the radial 360 and new Qu-Ax frame are both made for 25.4mm seatposts.
I agree with you when you say that if you want to save weight, lose that weight on the wheel. Firstly because it’s has more effect there and secondly because it’s easier to do. Replacing a steel rim with an airfoil or Qu-Ax alloy rim will save much more weight than your frame will.
For what you’re planning I’d recommend something like this:
Nimbus gel saddle
KH rail bracket
KH rail seat post
Qu-Ax 25.4mm frame
Airfoil rim (36 spokes) or the Qu-Ax alloy rim (48 spokes)
UDC 100mm hub (36 spokes) or the Qu-Ax ISIS hub (48 spokes)
Stainless steel spokes
36" TA tire
Cranks that will fit on your hub
The new Qu-Ax / Wellgo pedals that weigh only 376 grams!
You could possibly contact the UDC closest to you about the Qu-Ax 36", it’s about as good as an airfoil upgraded unicycle and much cheaper. You will have to upgrade some parts like pedals, saddle and maybe the KH seatpost but that’s pretty much it.
Qu-Ax alloy uni costs about 300 euros in Europe, the airfoil is about 500 euros.
The new Qu-Ax 36" as from www.Qu-Ax.com
The Qu-Ax is interesting. Are there any close up pictures of the rim or any info on the cross section and width of the rim?
I’d also be curious about the flange width of the ISIS hub used. Wider flanges are better for Coker size wheels.
My C-cups. Are they hot or not?
I haven’t spent much time on the Nimbus (I ride a Hunter), so I’ll bow to your judgement. As for the brake, I rode for several years without one. Originally, I had cantilever brakes, which caused me to crash rather than slow (largely due to my inexperience at the time). Now I’m running Maguras, and they’re like butter. I think they’re worth the $$ and hassle, especially if you get them off eBay. Of course, a brake is only useful if significant hills are part of your regular riding.Just my 2 cents.
The seatposts just broke to the repeated stress of me pulling on the handle from climbing and decending, not from any hardcore riding. Quite the opposite of you, I’ve never broken a seatpost on any of my other unis.
Good to know the new frames accept wider seatposts.
I was planning on buying the Nimbus 36er Deluxe unicycle from UDC, would this be a good choice to do what I am planning on doing? I just figured that since I had heard nothing bad about the nimbus, and I’d heard a lot about the standard coker frame having a lot of flex that shelling out the extra money would be a good idea.
Thanks to everyone for their help, I’m going to ride the San Juan Islands with my scout troop for a high adventure activity and was looking to get my coker before then so I could show them all up on one wheel I’d like to have it by next month so I can start training the san juan trip is 30 miles a day for 5 days with rest stops for ferry rides to the next island and for meals and sleep, I need to be able to ride that far though
pictured below is a map of the san juan Islands (up in washington) the highest point on the islands is Mount Constitution my troop will be riding up it, I want to be able to do it on my uni do you think that with enough training I can make it?
The San Juan’s are unicycle friendly. There is only so far you can go on those islands so the mileage isn’t going to be so much that you won’t be able to keep up reasonably. But on Orcas you’re going to be at a big disadvantage to the bikes in keeping up getting from the ferry terminal at the West side of the island to Moran State Park on the East side of the island. That’s a long ways on a rather flat road till you get to Moran St. Park, and then it gets some elevation.
You’ll also have to plan your ride and your timing to be able to catch the same ferry as the rest of the group. You’re going to be slower so you’ll have to leave earlier.
Going up Mt. Constitution is going to be tough. The grade has to be at least 12% in places. It’s a steep climb. I’ve gone up the road to the top on a MTB. It was a granny gear climb. I’ve also gone up to the top on the trails on the 24x3 muni. No way around it, it’s going to be a tough slog up due to the steepness. I haven’t tried the climb there on a Coker yet.
170mm cranks on the Coker should get you up though. If 170s are too long for you pick the longest length you can pedal well.
The trail around and near Mountain Lake on Mt. Constitution would be Cokerable. If you have time you should try some Coker muni on some of the trails. Some of the trails are well suited for some Coker muni, while others are too steep and switchbacked. And others will be too rocky. Get some advice on suitable sections of trail and dirt road there and you can have fun.
I think I’ll buy 150’s for Mount constitution (that’s as long as I can use) and some 125’s for flat. I think I have to follow certain roads and trails and stay with a group. I think with 125’s (if I get used to those I may buy some 110’s for the flat and use those instead) I should be able to keep up with a group of lazy boy scouts on mountain bikes. I might throw my DX in a chase car for when we get on the ferries and ride that around in the off time when I’m not cokering… I’m thinking I really want to get into distance riding there’s no better way to test that theory than to do a huge ride now is there?(I did a 7 mile round-trip on my 20 inch CX before I got my DX)
You’ll make it up to the top with 150s. I’m just a long crank kind of guy. I prefer being able to put less force into the pedals rather than muscling it with shorter cranks. I’d do the climb with 170s just because that’s how I am.
I don’t remember how the grades are in different parts of the climb. But the steep parts are in the switchbacks and once you make it around the switchback the grade settles down again. So there aren’t extended sections at ridiculous grades like 12-15%. It’s still a good tough climb at a healthy grade that is worth bragging rights.
Do put in some good practice time doing climbs. Portland has some good places to practice climbs in the West Hills so have fun with it. There is a certain technique to Coker climbing that you’ll need to get the swing of.