My Shadow handlebar has been rock solid since I added a lock washer and blue loctite thread locker. I got that same old clicking feeling this morning but only when I am really laying on the brake down one of Kentucky’s many hills. Could it already (200+ miles) be time to replace my Impulse’s brake pads? Can I DIY? Would my LBS carry replacement pads? The Bengal Performance website shows these Helix 1.1 hydraulic disc brake pads as part # PH02 and compatible systems as HELIX1.0,1.1/HELIX2.1/Helix3.1/MB700/MB700T/MB606/MB849A/MB849B/MB839/MB839M/MB859/MB860 Do those numbers sound familiar to anyone? Where can I get replacement pads and how do I go about replacing them?
When we were testing the brake properties of Impulse Unicycle the prototype in the UK I passed it around as I was not the best to test the brake as I am reletively inexperienced using brakes…
When it came to what unicycle to take on the Monguni ride it had to be the Nimbus Impulse! Oh did I make a good choice! the brake was fantastic, it was so solid and easy to use. Even for a brake newby like me.
Looking over the description again on UDC (US), I noticed it says “The wheel is constructed using the new light weight 36” disc stealth rim with its 36 18mm lightening holes that reveal the light weight green rim tape.” (italics added). However, the pictures show that there is no lightening hole between two spokes where a Nimbus brand sticker appears, nor where the valve stem emerges. With 36 spokes, this leads me to believe there are actually only 34 (or less) lightening holes, right?
if you’re a beginner, you will break your first handlebar eventually. . . well, I did anyway. I had the T7 handlebar, notorious for breaking, mine is bent to the point where I feel like if it dropped a few more times it would be gone.
That being said, your first 36er takes a lot of beating, especially if you “go for it” a lot like I did.
Granted I didn’t break any spokes, the handle took much of the beating, but falling sideways on the cranks did wonders for it I’m sure.
I think the titan or the pro good fits for the first one, I went with a nightrider pro. Even now I don’t think I’d get the impulse, I’d be too afraid of things breaking.
Oh, and you DON’T want to try using brakes until you get used to the cycle, I still find them unnecessary unless you have short cranks, which you won’t when you start.
so . . . I don’t think it’s a great beginner 36er, but if you have the extra cash to blow. . . it certainly is nice : )
The coker wheel I hear is heavier, and the tire is much heavier. I think I would go with a Titan over a coker. OOOR. . . you can wait til something else comes out O:-)
Hmmmm… What’s your point? I didn’t weld a MountainUni tab onto my nightrider nor do I plan to (even though I could). This would give me the convenience of disk brakes on my current set-up without rebuilding the wheel with the impulse hub. I still don’t find a reason to have a disc brake on my 36-er… I never said I didn’t want one on my Muni’s.
Not ironic at all, thanks for playing though
So far I’m loving the MountainUni rotor, sinz cranks and Formula oro K24 caliper. Now I just need to get it out to syncline or post canyon.
So… nearly a year has passed, I’ve got 350 km on the 29er and a bit of muni, and starting to feel ready for the big wheel.
In the rather limited universe of 36 inch disc brake unicycles there are few stars. But I’m not going to be, er… impulsive here. There are alternatives, when counting the mountainuni system (any others?). With that you can get aluminium or even titanium frames. I’d be grateful for any help in deciding here:
Not 100% accurate (the Impulse is basically a NightRider frame and there are lots of NightRider frames with Schlumpf hubs and there are several NightRider frames with MountainUni’s disc brake system but there are not many with both) but I get what you are saying. Non Schlumpf compatibility is, as far as I am concerned, the ONLY downside to the Impulse which is why I am keeping mine fully intact for when my KH36G needs repair.
Rumor has it these Nightrider frames do flex quite a bit which is where the disc brake (no rub like rim brakes) pays off so I don’t see the stiffness of alu/ti as a huge advantage.
The internal disc being more protected than an external disc, is a slight misnomer. Think of the disc like a pie, and while the wheel/disc is spinning, the only segment of the disc that would be inherently more protected would be the slice that’s behind the frame or approx 1/4 of a pedal rotation. Look at the lower half of an internal disc system of the Impulse or Oregon. It is still exposed and as “vulnerable” as an external system.
I can confidently say this. Now that I have been riding 24, 29 and 36 Unicycle’s all with Mountainuni Brake systems, I am surely more aware that the disc bashing potential exists in both quick exits PD and UPD scenarios. My MUni’s are strong and bullet proof, but letting my MUni just “GO” in a quick bailout doesn’t happen any longer if I can help it. The payoff for using slightly more caution pays back 5 fold with a brake that provides the ability to stay in the saddle and in control in all downhill environments, whether abbreviated or extended. And with a 5 min adjustment, a rotor truing tool can easily bring a rotor back to straight so it flows through the caliper properly. Certainly easier than truing a wheel with a spokewrench.
I was thinking mostly about weight and, since I live in Norway, corrosion. But since the Nightrider frames are triangulated they could potentially be as light as the alu/ti frames, will need to check that.
Can the Mountainuni disc hit the ground if the uni is dropped on flat pavement, or is this only a problem off road? In the latter case it wouldn’t be a problem for me.
