I’d guess it would be easier with a disc if anything. On both my unicycles with Magura rim brakes the tyre has to be completely deflated to fit between the brakes (unless you remove one of the slave cylinders which is even more of a pain having to line it up again afterwards). With a disc you would be able to remove and refit the wheel without deflating the tyre. I keep forgetting to refit my wheels before pumping the tyre up after mending a puncture or replacing the tyre - real PITA.
OOPs…the photographs must have been taken by a spy or a unicycle journalist who tracked us down during rigerous secret testing in the remote outback. That is why they were blurry I guess and this is a good story.
I was looking at this thread and saw that ITB had posted last. Mmmm I’m thinking why is Sean commenting on a 36" with a disc brake, he must have moved on quite a bit in the last 9 months.
Ahhh I see he’s dragging this thread down to a level we can all relate to.
OK, now that all the speculation is over and all our questions have been answered, I am going to treat this as the official Nimbus 36" Impulse owner’s thread only because the title fits and I am so new here that I hesitate to start a new thread. So, here goes. I think that I may have made a mistake when I ordered my Impulse because I “upgraded” from the Nimbus Venture crank arms (125’s weigh 330 grams and have zero Q factor for more speed) to the KH Moments double hole 125/150 (these weigh a whopping 586 grams and have 10mm Q factor) because the hills in Kentucky will probably require more torque than my old legs can provide in the 125 hole. It just seems dumb to take the “lightest 36er ever made” and add over a half pound of crank arms. How much weight could I save if I “drill out” my KH 125/150’s? I guess I will invest in a crank extractor and read the FAQ to learn how to install myself a set of Nimbus Ventures. Or, is the versatility of double holes worth the weight?
I suggest sticking with the KH cranks, try them in 125 setting for a few weeks after you’ve mastered the 150 holes. I live in a very hilly area and ride 114’s with no real problems. eventually you get used to it.
Hmmmmm my nimbus nightrider weighs in at 19.9 lbs with dual hole moments, MG1 pedals, KH street seat, seatpost, handle and seat stiffener, maggies, schwalbe 29" tube and a Sette computer. Even though I would love to have a disc brake, it’s really not worth it…
I don’t believe you… had you not already gotten a nightrider, you would be happy owning an impulse. Disks are a natural evolution gauging everything else from bikes to cars to unis! the maggies weigh 544g/1.19 lbs per set, an avid juicy is 424g! I’m willing to bet you’ll be tearing around with a disk on your uni someday soon dude.
You have just confirmed my worst fears that extra Q on a wide hub is not good and that a mechanically challenged person like myself (which is why I bought the “turn key” solution) has no business changing the cranks on his brand new (over $1k after you throw in a pair of gloves) unicycle. This versatility was the whole reason that I “upgraded” to the dual hole cranks in the first place! When will I ever learn to trust the designers and use the standard parts that worked so well on the prototype?
I still prefer no brakes. Why complicate things? A unicycle works just fine without breaks anyway. A disc brake is just an expensive way to take away from the feel of unicycling. Turns a challeneging downhill into an easy cruise. I almost feel like brakes are cheating.
the extra q factor won’t be too bad, just cause more wobble when going at higher speeds. I wouldn’t worry too much about it.