Oh, I’m half wrong then. Someone I know bought a Hatchet in 2019, and his rim is like I described. I think you have mentioned this before, but I forgot.
It was shortly before the old forum shut down for a while and I thought you didn`t noticed it. Here is a photo of my hatchet the day it arrived not yet completely assembled. I hope you can see the non offset spokes.
Thanks for all the replies. I checked the cranks and the pedals and they are all very tight. I did spoke tension relief per roger’s suggestion but it did not solve the problem. I found the spokes on the non-disc side is definitely looser than the ones on the disc side, though.
I noticed the rim is surly marge lite and the wheel is indeed not centered. It is skewed to the right/non-disc side. If I tighten the spokes on the non-disc side it would move the wheel to the right even more ;(
Because of the offset with some spokes more inline with the axis of the wheel, those spokes have to be under more tension. That is required and normal. If you pluck each spoke and listen to the tone, all the spokes on each side should be about the same. However the tone of the plucked spokes will and should be different on both sides of the wheel.
Part of my regular maintenance is to check the spoke tension between most every ride. If I find on that is “out of tune”, I tighten a little till it is in tune.
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I’m done - now we’re tuning our unicycles?? 
Anyhow, just curious, since I have no experience with building or maintaining wheels, what’s the rundown for this? What tools are needed, how necessary is it, and how long does it take? Thanks!
There is a bunch of useful information on youtube about building and truing “bicycle” wheels. It will take more time reviewing how to do it then actually doing it but anyone can do. The Minimum tool needed is a spoke wrench. Here is a past thread and there are many others.
The other option is a local bike shop.
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Thanks!
Is he an active member of this forum?
Almost all my creaks came from the cranks. To prove it, take them off, grease them and put them back on. Or just rotate them to a different position. If the noise disappears, it was the cranks.
True, but note that rotating the cranks also changes which spokes have the most force applied. If the noise stops after moving cranks it still could be that noisy spokes are not being moved so much.
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Hi,
i had the same problem with my Nimbus Oregon with Hatchet wheelset.
Try this and the noise should be eliminated:
The thread is in german. But look at the pictures and you will understand.
Best regards,
Sven
He call it “Speedbooster”. “Noise reducer” is right, too.
Please note: it could be the spokes but I would guess it will be the cranks. Hear me out, ISIS is still a press fit just like cotterless (square taper) but has splines for better holding the press fit surface area wise. The bolts can be as tight as possible and still make a creak. I check this by removing the bolt and seeing if the crank arm pulls off, you will need to check both sides this way. If the arm pulls off by hand you will need to install a thinner spacer between the crank and bearing to reintroduce the press fit. Unicycle.com will be releasing a video here in the next 2 weeks on choosing a proper spacer.
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I checked cranks and pedals and they are all fine. It seems it is the spokes, as the noise is similar to the sound when I squeeze the spokes to release tension. Anyway I tighten all the spokes on the right side by a quarter turn. I test ride it and the noise is less but not completely gone. I sprayed some WD40 to some of the spoke crosses (right side spokes only) and the noise is gone.
If the noise come back again (WD40 evaporates?) I will probably tighten the spokes even more and see. Thanks all for the help.
Time for a spoke tension meter in the toolbox.
Cautious at first, I’m so glad I bit the bullet and bought a Park Tool one.
Keeps the guesswork out of it and I haven’t had a broken or noisy spoke since.
I agree, a spoke tensioner is a worth while investment if you are mechanically inclined and care to learn this skill.
This is good to know, overtime the wd40 or any lube will dissipate and breakdown due to the elements you ride in. If you want a longer lasting lube I suggest a dry lube like Squirt or T-9 Bosheild, they do not attract dirt as easily as wd40.
Thanks. Ordered a cheap but well-reviewed spoke tension meter from amazon. Will probably order Squirt or Boesheild T-9
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The increment between spacers is 1 (or 2?) mm if i remember it right. If you use Shim Rings DIN 988 22x30x0.X that are available in thickness of 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 and 0.5 mm.
See also these two posts of me in the past:
Yes, thank you for adding this. We do offer spacers in a kit of 4, 5, 6, and 8. These have seemed to be the best combination for reintroducing the pressfit for the bulk of unicycles. Please note this does not include the Schlumpf hub, I know even thinner spacers are need for it at times before the crank is unusable.
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