Nextie 36" carbon rim

Terry had one… which wouldn’t ride straight, if I remember correctly.

I would take that offer of compensation :slight_smile: You get a half price rim? Thus more juice and onus to hang out for the unicorn’s impending tubeless love child or a T-Monster when they hatch.

Innova is making the current KG/NR - good point. Not sure if they have brought the standard up to what their other tires are though. The anecdotal evidence seems to suggest they’re making them the same way as the old factory (and with the same tooling from memory?). The QC and QA, one would hope, is no doubt certainly better. Yet very doubtful they have upped the overall design specification. That could have made the situation worse for the current known working tubed rims. By making the tires better.

I’m not on Nextie’s payroll (but would love some stickers) and think the hooked debacle is a black mark for sure. I feel you. Yet, I still think the unicorn is the answer to my dissatisfaction with the standard 36" KH spec uni. It’s begging for less rotating mass. And a decent tire.

I also wish and hope for less rotating mass personally, to help with unicycling in general :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

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A half price rim that I can’t use (until at least mid 2023), and not unless I buy another tyre which will probably be as much if not more than the compensation offer - yeah what a generous offer…

If/when we get Kevlar bead tubeless 36" tyres I’d just buy a hookless rim at that point to use with it.
I only bought this rim on the basis that it worked with the NR tyres that I have currently (at road pressures), and AFAIK that was the only reason why anyone else was interested in it as a hookless rim is better in almost all other circumstances and their hookless one has already been tested to work with the T-Monster.
I don’t need yet more parts sat in my shed, let alone ones that I can’t use even if I want to.

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Compensation but you have to return the rim, right? And you pay the return to China yourself. So it’s not like you get a discount on a rim, it’s more like you waste some money…
I did ask if there would be a refund policy for us buyers of the first hookless version when the hooked version came into the picture, and was nicely told that it wouldn’t happen, no way…

This would be compensation but I get to keep the useless rim. That doesn’t help me.

Well at least one person got a refund, although before the hooked one came out.
The hookless rim was a slightly different situation as as no kind of specific compatibility with tyres etc. was mentioned or promised - they just made a 787mm hookless carbon rim.

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Assuming you don’t get anywhere with getting a full refund, and end up stuck with the rim, is it worth drilling it for a Schrader valve and trying it with a Foss tube given that is what it was apparently tested with? (Assuming you can get them).

Given they are thinner they might conform to the inside better around the bead area and give it more direct force to hold the bead in to the hook (I’m thinking about what I said in an earlier post regarding rolling the tyre off). Maybe this is just wishful thinking though.

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I have always gone with 3,2 bars and never had any blowouts.

That’s more than 45psi from memory. Which is probably plenty ok for this tire even on asphalt?

Would be curious to know how many people have no problem. Mine is good so far, so signs of the tire moving. But then I haven’t ridden it enough to really know. I pumped it under 3 bars, so probably around 40psi.

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Critical at this point to say which tyre, tube, and rim you’re using, as well as tyre pressure.

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Yes you’re absolutely right, this thread is now 770 messages long and info is buried deep in there!

My setup is hookless Nextie, shiny finish (maybe makes a difference?), new NR Lite (only rode it a few miles before, on a Nimbus rim) with stretched 29" tube (Michelin butyl presta valve). Inflated at 40psi.

There is another person in France, but he’s not on this international forum, who has a similar setup and has been riding since august with no issue. He rides at 35psi because he hates hard tires.

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My suspicion at this point is that the hooked rim makes close to zero difference to the reliability of the running any existing tyres. It’s probably slightly better for trying to run tubeless due to the higher bead retention hump, but seems to do very little to help keep the difficult tyres on the rim.

Up to 35 maybe 40 PSI seems to be the practical limit without a T-Monster. 45PSI is maybe doable if you get very lucky - my hooked setup was OK for about 7 miles at 45PSI but clearly right on the edge and very sketchy.

:grin:

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Oh dear, once life was easy - we had KH/UDC as a gatekeeper serving us up matching rims and tires which “just worked” - with one machine in one factory producing the tires.

But now we are in the “wild west” - lighter tire variants from different factories, fancy rims becoming available, but how do we make sure all the combinations are compatible, especially when it is VERY important that BSD measurements match (a loose tire being prone to blowout)?

I guess “suck it and see” might work - if the tire is too tight, forget it and try another. If the tire is too easy to install, take it off and wrap some good rim tape that covers the bead seat area (and double check that the rim is correctly spoked and not slightly elliptical)?

Maybe international standards could come to the rescue? - hmm, the secretive ISO 4210-7 costs 138 Swiss Francs and seems to be a standard based on “after the fact” consensus rather than engineering, and I’m betting there is no mention of 36 inch there.

It seems like even rim manufacturers like DT Swiss can produce “standard” rims which have exactly the same branding but yet two samples differ in BSD by more than 1mm.
(see Rim and Tire Standards – Rene Herse Cycles).

I have been inspired by this forum topic to do a bit of research on rims. What I keep seeing is that the optimum recommended inner rim width for a 2.25 (57mm) tire is 27, 28, 29 or 30mm. So why go wider? It looks like the “36 Braus” by Alchemist (with 28mm inner width), as I assume used by @toutestbon, is available and fit for the job. Possibly the narrower rim would not need as high a flange height as the wider Nextie needs (but does not have)? Yes, I guess it is more expensive and has the minor nuisance of 32 holes.

Congratulations to @UniGeezer, @mowcius and others for pioneering the trail. I hope “the squeaky wheel gets the grease” (i.e. a full refund or an improved replacement product for them).

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These are always recommendations for bikes. Due to how we ride on one wheel and that’s all the suspension we get, wider rims tend to be preferable for us. Unicycle manufacturers don’t just add weight to their unicycles (in the form of wide rims) for the fun of it.
It also helps with running lower tyre pressures.

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well, it would certainly be advantageous to have a wide rim if there was a bigger tire available (say a 2.50 or 2.60 or more, instead of the 2.25), but sadly there are none for 36in wheels. The rim width has minimal effect on the inflated tire shape, and it is exactly the same amount of rubber flexing to cushion the bumps for us. I suspect the unicycle manufacturers were hoping for a future bigger range of tires, plus also catering for the “unicycles are special” and “bigger must be better and stronger” ideas in their customer’s minds. Yet wider rims tend to be heavier, but nobody seems to want the resulting greater wheel rolling inertia.

It also looks like some here want to run higher pressures to optimize for speed on the road, but with the same tire on wider rims their desired pressures may be closer to the “blow off limit”.

On my 29er unicycle I have a bicycle rim with 30mm inside width and a 2.40in tire which I am really happy with - it is great on and off road and the rim is way lighter than a Nimbus Dominator 2, for example.

EDIT: I reckon the narrower rim has another advantage - the slight profile change caused by the rim would make it a little rounder, and less likely to “camber steer”, so those who prefer a comfy ride could use a lower pressure without impacting the steering. Also this rim and tire, while maybe narrower than some available muni combinations, would be thought of as really HUGE if found on a road b*ke. (and surely most 36er unicycle miles are ROAD miles).

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It seems that a wider rim than recommended for bikes brings lateral stability to unicyclists.

I think this lateral stability is very important for muni, but on the road I don’t see any interest… it’s not that common to fall on the side… :sweat_smile:
On the road, when you are looking for performance, you should rather prioritize: 1/ the holding of the tire on the rim at high pressure and 2/ a round tire profile to gain in drivability.

That’s why I would tend to go with the bike recommendations.

It reminds me of the racing kayaks that champions use in whitewater. Even if you’ve practiced a little kayaking, you end up in the water when you try it on a flat water.

" On my 29er unicycle I have a bicycle rim with 30mm inside width and a 2.40in tire which I am really happy with - it "

I can confirm it. I’m the same. But my rim is thinner, 27mm, my tire is wider, 2,6"

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Personally right now I was hoping for a rim that has flexibility, as the Dominator 36" (Stealth II) has.

I agree that on road this width is probably unnecessary, perhaps even being a disadvantage in performance terms, but a bit like the 36" tyres, they current popular rims have been designed as a compromise.

My 36er sits at ~35-40PSI 80-90% of the time as I just get it out of the shed and go and ride somewhere, sometimes including some light off-road.
A few times a year it goes to 45PSI for racing or if I’m doing longer road rides with bicyclists.

Something that’s not been mentioned yet in the width debate is high casing tension, that at least used to be a concern with running wide tyres on narrow rims. The narrower you go, the greater the tension, which could rip the rim apart, especially because the narrower you go the less material there is between the holes and the sides.
Now perhaps with the rims of today and the widths and pressures we generally run at, this isn’t an issue but I thought it was worth mentioning.

I’ve been running a 700c Velocity Dyad rim on my KH 29er frame for years, with a 2.2 wide tire. The inner width of the rim is 18mm. I know that the rim/tire combo is pushing it a bit, but it works well, with zero camber issues, and I run up to 50psi. I think the wider 36er rim is necessary due to the large diameter.

While there’s no problem inflating the Nextie fitted with the NR to 30-35psi, it’s almost unrideable (in my case) on cambered roads, as is my Stealth ll at low psi, but as soon as I inflate it to around 50-55, no more camber issues. It would seem that the tire’s incresed contact patch at lower psi causes it to conform more to the slant of the road, resulting in the unwanted pull to the lower side. So for now, the Nextie with have to be limited to MUni, which is a blast anyway!

It’s me, the narrow rim proponent, chiming in again… OK a wide rim may have a special “feel” which results in better riding experience for some situations. And a 36in rim is in pretty unknown territory in the bicycle engineering world. Perhaps extra strength is needed at this diameter. Interestingly the narrow 28mm braus rim is actually 13g heavier than the wider 35mm nextie rim! The initially released nextie price and specs make it seem VERY appealing (150kg load, 60psi max, light weight, 36 spoke holes, schrader or presta, much cheaper) but unfortunately all that is not true as our pioneers have discovered.

However, Wally Watts managed to ride around the world on a 43in wheel which was much narrower without too many problems (although 60 spokes helped).
And regarding the casing stress - this seems to be not an issue, and is addressed in this link:
[ Technical FAQ: The science of tire pressure, rim width, and heat buildup - VeloNews.com ]

EDIT: I just noticed that the nextie specs linked to in a previous post at [NXT36XU42] [Unicorn] PREMIUM 42mm Width Carbon Fiber 36" Mountain Bike Clincher Rim Tubeless Compatible suggest using a tire size greater than our 2.25 (i.e. range from 2.3in to 3.2in).

Anything larger than a 36 in tire is going to be solid and not pneumatic.

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