These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well
as low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for
“medium priced” frames. Especially those designed for 24 x 3.0 tires.
With that in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is reasonably
strong (I hope) and light but won’t cost too much to manufacture. It’s
meant to work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and Suzue hub. You can see a
picture of it here:
I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a couple
of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either pressed or
screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if nothing else!
If you’ll kindly send me one I’ll test it for you.
Looks very nice. I particularly like the way the bearings are housed. I
wonder about the strength of the crown/fork-leg junction. The fork legs
are quite remarkable. Almost a work of art.
It appears from the picture that the bearings are held in place by a pinch
bolt. Are they fairly easy to remove?
What is the seat-tube made of? What is the I.D. of the seat-tube? Are you
selling them now? Soon? Where?
If you’ve been “fooling around” with designs for the last couple of months
do you have any other “prototypes”?
-mg
<steve@atec.cc> wrote in message news:mailman.1008805639.27167.rsu@unicycling.org… > These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well
as > low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for
"medium > priced" frames. Especially those designed for 24 x 3.0 tires. With that > in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is reasonably strong (I > hope) and light but won’t cost too much to manufacture. It’s meant to > work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and Suzue hub. You can see a picture > of it here: > > http://www.atec.cc/newuni1.jpg > > I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a > couple of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either > pressed or screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if > nothing else! > > I welcome comments! > > Steve
It looks like the bairings are held in the same way that the seat post is- by compressing the frame around them. Look at the screw right right at the terminus of the center seam…
I’m more concerned about the axel- do you have to take off one of the arms to get the axel out (in other words: to change the tire)? This raises some big issues about the crown connection.
Great to see such darring inovation- it will be nice to see it play out.
that is so sweet ,if there was a assortment of colors,you and your friends could trade parts and have a multicolored MUni or if you trashed one fork blade on a rock you could buy just a replacement part…
I weighed the frame on an old balance type scale at 1003 grams. If memory
serves there are 455 grams/pound? That makes it about 2.2 pounds.
The bearings are held in place with a pinch bolt arrangement. It’s
surprising how tight it will hold the bearings even though there isn’t a
flange to locate the bearing side to side in the leg. This may be a
problem in the long run if the bearings have a tendency to walk side to
side in the fork. On the other hand, this design allows different width
hubs to be used. The Suzue bearings are flush on the outside but some of
the bearing protrudes to the inside. The bearings on a wider hub might be
flush on the inside and stick out on the outside.
I haven’t ridden this particular frame (it’s #3) but I’ve been riding #1
and so far so good. Working on this has been a lot of fun!
Regards,
Steve
> Wow! You’ve created a very cool frame. You’ll probably be inundated with > questions. Here are a few of mine: > > How much does the frame weigh? How are you holding the bearings? Have > you had a chance to ride the thing? And how does it perform? > > I love evolution/revolution that’s going on in this sport! > > David Maxfield Bainbridge Island, WA >
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— steve@atec.cc wrote: > These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well > as low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for > “medium priced” frames. Especially those designed for 24 x > 3. tires. With that in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is > reasonably strong (I hope) and light but won’t cost too much to > manufacture. It’s meant to work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and > Suzue hub. You can see a picture of it here: > > http://www.atec.cc/newuni1.jpg > > I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a > couple of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either > pressed or screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if > nothing else! > > I welcome comments! > > Steve > > >
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interested in selling a few?
Right now i NEED a new unicycle, And im looking at frames, before my
options were KH20/KH24 but after seeing that! WOW! Drop me a line. Id
also think about marketing it through unicycle.com if I were you. It
looks primo.
— steve@atec.cc wrote: > These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well > as low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for > “medium priced” frames. Especially those designed for 24 x > 3. tires. With that in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is > reasonably strong (I hope) and light but won’t cost too much to > manufacture. It’s meant to work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and > Suzue hub. You can see a picture of it here: > > http://www.atec.cc/newuni1.jpg > > I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a > couple of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either > pressed or screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if > nothing else! > > I welcome comments! > > Steve > > >
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interested in selling a few?
Right now i NEED a new unicycle, And im looking at frames, before my
options were KH20/KH24 but after seeing that! WOW! Drop me a line. Id
also think about marketing it through unicycle.com if I were you. It
looks primo.
That is very cool. You should market specially made versions with custom
patterns machined into the side, like people’s names and such.
John
steve@atec.cc wrote:
> These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well > as low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for > “medium priced” frames. Especially those designed for 24 x 3.0 tires. > With that in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is reasonably > strong (I hope) and light but won’t cost too much to manufacture. It’s > meant to work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and Suzue hub. You can see a > picture of it here: > > http://www.atec.cc/newuni1.jpg > > I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a > couple of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either > pressed or screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if > nothing else! > > I welcome comments! > > Steve
Nice looking. Since you mentioned limited options in 24x3.0, I’ll also
mention 20x2.5 (ie: monty)… or at least 20x2.5 with a flat crown.
At any rate, we can always use some mid priced frames for fat tires.
(Especially with a flat crown, and ideally something on the top of the
crown to give better traction)
Keep up the good work, jeff lutkus
> These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well > as low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for > “medium priced” frames. Especially those designed for 24 x 3.0 tires. > With that in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is reasonably > strong (I hope) and light but won’t cost too much to manufacture. It’s > meant to work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and Suzue hub. You can see a > picture of it here: > > http://www.atec.cc/newuni1.jpg > > I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a > couple of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either > pressed or screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if > nothing else! > > I welcome comments! > > Steve > > >
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Steve showed up for one of the rides at the Muni Weekend in Idaho this
year. He was riding an earlier design of the uni that he posted. It’s a
real looker. It really catches your eye. He sure surprised us when he
showed up with that muni. It’s amazing what you can do with Auto CAD, a
CNC milling machine and a good imagination.
I don’t know how well the design would hold up to hard muni riding. But I
think it would make a very interesting customized Coker frame. You could
get quite creative with those long forks for a Coker wheel.
john_childs
>From: steve@atec.cc > >These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well >as low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for >“medium priced” frames. Especially those designed for 24 x 3.0 tires. >With that in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is reasonably >strong (I hope) and light but won’t cost too much to manufacture. It’s >meant to work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and Suzue hub. You can see a >picture of it here: > >http://www.atec.cc/newuni1.jpg > >I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a couple >of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either pressed or >screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if nothing else! > >I welcome comments! > >Steve
Steve showed up for one of the rides at the Muni Weekend in Idaho this
year. He was riding an earlier design of the uni that he posted. It’s a
real looker. It really catches your eye. He sure surprised us when he
showed up with that muni. It’s amazing what you can do with Auto CAD, a
CNC milling machine and a good imagination.
I don’t know how well the design would hold up to hard muni riding. But I
think it would make a very interesting customized Coker frame. You could
get quite creative with those long forks for a Coker wheel.
john_childs
>From: steve@atec.cc > >These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well >as low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for >“medium priced” frames. Especially those designed for 24 x 3.0 tires. >With that in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is reasonably >strong (I hope) and light but won’t cost too much to manufacture. It’s >meant to work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and Suzue hub. You can see a >picture of it here: > >http://www.atec.cc/newuni1.jpg > >I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a couple >of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either pressed or >screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if nothing else! > >I welcome comments! > >Steve
Steve showed up for one of the rides at the Muni Weekend in Idaho this
year. He was riding an earlier design of the uni that he posted. It’s a
real looker. It really catches your eye. He sure surprised us when he
showed up with that muni. It’s amazing what you can do with Auto CAD, a
CNC milling machine and a good imagination.
I don’t know how well the design would hold up to hard muni riding. But I
think it would make a very interesting customized Coker frame. You could
get quite creative with those long forks for a Coker wheel.
john_childs
>From: steve@atec.cc > >These days there are several high end Muni frames to choose from as well >as low end stuff but it seems like the choices are pretty limitted for >“medium priced” frames. Especially those designed for 24 x 3.0 tires. >With that in mind I’ve come up with a new design that is reasonably >strong (I hope) and light but won’t cost too much to manufacture. It’s >meant to work with the Nokian 24 x 3.0 tire and Suzue hub. You can see a >picture of it here: > >http://www.atec.cc/newuni1.jpg > >I have a machine shop and have been fooling with this design for a couple >of months now. It’s mostly aluminum with everything either pressed or >screwed together. I think it’s kind of neat looking if nothing else! > >I welcome comments! > >Steve
Beautiful. If you want a tester I’d be happy to try. I’ve broken race Face cranks (x2) and SEARS scolded me for breaking too many of their unbreakable tools I’m a little hard on things…
Why not make a bolt on flange? It could be 3 sides with the pinch bolt going through one of the sides. For bearing/hub combinations that are flush with the outside of the frame the bolt on could be installed on the outside. reverse for bearings flush on the inside.
just a thought…
I’m a little hard on things…