I used a nimbus 100mm disc hub which fitted fine and I’m using isis cranks as I didn’t want splined arms
Those frames existed before Q-Axle was a thing. Q-Axle uses the same outer bearing diameter, width and 100mm spacing. Only hubs with low spacing between flange and bearing have an issue with the spokes rubbing on the bearing holder on these frames. (Can’t recall which exact hubs those are, but I think it’s always solvable if you file down the bearing clamp)
Nice build by the way! I think the not so wide rim should work well with enough tire pressure-I think that in some cases the way it makes the tire “rounder” would be an advantage in corners. (Those seatposts were designed to be used the other way around though, triangle up front)
Hi finnspin
Thanks for the info on the hub so I will have to go and have a look at the spokes to see if they are running close to the frame.
Thanks for positive comment on my build as I’m pleased with it even thou I’ve only ridden it once so far. Also thanks for pointing out my error on the seat post as I assumed more weight would be on the rear of the post…oops!
I took a look at the frame to spoke clearance and there is plenty of room there.
Im planning to paint the frame and seat post matt black soon so il swap the triangle around when I do.
Thanks for clarifying. Got one on sale from Goudurix and neither my Nimbus CrMo hub nor the Nimbus freewheel hub with onboard disc have the proper clearance… I slowly started to file the frame but I do not have the ideal tool.
Have fun with this build as it will be a totally different experience compared to your Hatchet 
These frames can be filed until they even fit a Schlumpf hub. But yes, it takes some time and the proper tools. If it’s only the width and not the shoulder diameter, you should be fine with a good flat file. If you take the angel grinder, be very careful as it will chew through the soft material really fast.
That seams strange that mine is fine and yours is not, il try and get a photo that shows the clearance and add it to this thread.
Thanks yes I’m sure il enjoy it and for what I want to use it for it is going to be great and lots easier going than the hatchet.
It’s a bit hard to see the clearance fully but hopefully picture will help.
Just took it out for a brief ride whilst girlfriend ran and really pleased with how it rides
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Odd ball build done and came out loads better than I expected it to, thankfully the gap between tyre and frame is fine as I was worried a 27.5 in a 29 frame would give a gap that would annoy me but no im plenty happy with it 
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That rim is really pretty wild 
– I do like your matching Mavic hub – does Mavic know they exist 
Hi DrD,
Painting the frame black sure has brought the yellow out some more!!
I did think the hub needed a little touch so sorry to nimbus/mavic.
I am super pleased with how well it came out and mostly by how well it rides.
Hows you and are you getting out riding much?
Greetings m00ms
I was just winding you up on the ‘Mavic’ hub, it is pretty neat and a nice touch, you make a good job of these things. It has all turned out pretty well.
If Mavic really did make unicycle hubs, I’d have one ordered as soon as I could, the same with Hope (well, more so with Hope to be honest!) – I’m quite partial to some nice CNC’ed aluminium!
I actually spent some time on my KH20 last Sunday, in between the deluges of rain – it was the first time in weeks. I ended up practicing some new things, nothing special, just basic stuff, trying to develop some skills.
Hey DrD i knew you was only joking on the hub so fear not and thanks for the positive comments on my builds, i think build wise i have all i need currently which is a shame as i do enjoy building unicycles.
I am with you on nice machined aluminuim as the steel hub is rather crude when you look at it close up so its a shame we cant get aluminium disc hubs unless i have failed to find one.
Thats great you getting out as you cant beat a 20" for fun and practice, what are you working on? i built a 20" equinox pro last lockdown as an idling treat which now i am trying for backwards on , i made good early progress but seam to of stalled now but i will persevere.
What is this?
Mad4one used to have aluminium CNC hubs - turns out it doesn’t work for Muni/Trials applications when you use ISIS. (Because it’s a standard created with steel as a material in mind), and they never really got the 6 pin system (which apparently worked slightly better at least) to take off. There are still some aluminium Isis hubs for freestyle you can buy new out there.
Steel axles with aluminium flanges were common (Nimbus, KH), but turned out to sometimes develop creaking noises because the flanges and the spindle had some movement relative to each other, and the flanges failed from fatigue. Qu-ax still produces their axles that way, and they seem to have gotten on top of the creaking issues. I’ve also seen a failed Q-axle flange, but I’m willing to guess that the wheel had pretty high spoke tensions (as with most failed aluminium flanges).
I’ll take the not so sexy but cheap and reliable steel hubs please.
I have one of these on my 29" Oracle and a few spokes have broken out of the flange. I’ve just got a steel Mad4One hub to replace it. I’ve got a 125mm aluminium hub on my Hatchet (and AFAIR my 32" Oracle), I got hold of that before I saw the 29" Oracle one had failed. I’ve got a steel hub for the Hatchet too if it fails. Ed Pratt also had his Nimbus aluminium hub fail on his trip, my stuff won’t see the same fatigue as Ed’s for sure, so hopefully it will be okay.
With respect to the CNC’ed aluminium I was really meaning the Hope bike parts, I’m getting some new bits for a gravel bike just now and have been watching some YouTube videos from Hope where they are machining their components. I just find watching CNC machines, whether lathes or milling machines, absolutely captivating. So I get sucked in… as marketing material it certainly works on me…
Firstly just mounting with my wrong foot, that has always felt so, so, strange to me, but I made some progress there. I was also trying mounting with the seat out front and also spent some time riding to a standstill for as long as I could, then riding off. As I said, just basic things to try to get back into the groove of practising stuff.
It would appear that there is isis disc hubs out there then but they appear to be a poor choice so it would look like steel was the better choice then even thou I couldn’t find one.
I can do wrong foot freemounts but I’ve never understood the need, if you ride a push bike you always get on/off the same one side so why should it be different for unicycles?
Any riding is great and good fun so its excellent you have aims and targets
For your “wrong foot” or ambidextrous mounts there definitely is a need in muni.
When you mount on a traversing slope, for example, it’s much easier to mount and dismount with the downhill side foot.
I’m gonna bet you would follow the same principle on a mountainbike too. For both mounting and dismounting.
For road riding you’re probably right about not having to be ambidextrous because the terrain flat most of the time.
Hi canoeheadted,
For me i come from riding both push bike and motorbikes since i was little young and always got on/off from the left. On motorbikes you are governed by the stand and with push bikes i did full on downhill mtb where the only time i dismounted was when i crashed! i dont recall the need to get of ever got back on from “wrong” side.
So far my muni has been i would say tame but the time might come up to do a “wrong” one.
@m00ms, nice! To be sure. I also like to do as you do. I’ve actually finally got myself a reasonably decent unicycle that I put together from new parts (except the saddle and peddles), as opposed to my old “Frankenuni”. Oh, this is so good to ride. I think my son’s is a better ride, but I am so pleased with this unicylce.
Thanks for posting updates, and your final build on this uni! You’ve done a terrific job!
Happy building and riding!
Dawson