Need your views for my next Muni 26"

Hello,
I started uni last August with a Quax luxus 20".
Started Muni 9 days ago. First time 10-15km/6-9miles and a second ride approx.20km/12miles last saturday) with lend KH24.

For tire choice, availability I’m inclined to chose 26".

  • Would like to ride off-road XC style, hopping etc.
  • Do not plan to practice big jump (more than 1m/3’).
  • I don’t want something “fragile”, I’m 1m84/6’ 86Kg/190lbs…
  • Plan to purchase a brake.

hesitate between :
QUAX muni 26"+ saddle Kh fusion freeride 2009 + crank Quax tubular CrMo or KH moment.
:slight_smile: known to be stong
:angry: more than 6.4kg/14.1lbs

Nimbus muni 26"
:slight_smile: 6Kg/13.22lbs with another tire
:angry: Heavy (7Kg) with original duro leopard tire. Lake off feed-back. I don’t know if it is better than Quax.

QX 26" + saddle Kh fusion freeride 2009 + crank Quax tubular CrMo or KH moment.
:slight_smile: less than 6Kg/13.22lbs
:angry: does the 270g less on the frame really worth the extra cost(+19%) VS Muni CrMo ?

KH26
:slight_smile: saddle setting range (2 screws saddle post). known to be strong. Seems to be sold with brake lever installation tube.
:angry: price(Quax+41%, QX+19%).

I don’t realize if 1 Kg/2.2lbs change really feelings.
I tryed off-road Schlump-KH26" with handlebar and I thought that tire difference (26x2.4" VS 24x3") was noticeable despite Schlumpf hub+handlebar added weight VS the KH24" I’ve been using.

I realized last night that saddle range possibility can be the detail what can push me to the KH. The problem is the price.

Saying that your advice are welcome !

KH is too expensive for me.

Qu-Ax or Nimbus, change the saddle for KH fusion freeride and put moments on.

Qu-Ax has a smaller tyre (you complained about weight) and 48 spoke wheel (which is overkill.)
The Nimbus is probably the higher quality product.

I have a Nimbus MUni 24!" and a Qu-Ax 29" and couldn’t fault either if them.

Edit, Both can run Magura brakes

Hello Philippe

So you started unicycling last month, and you are already doing muni, that amazing !

I have the Qu-ax 24 and 29 myself. I found out that I didn’t like de saddle (pain in the man region) and the pedals (not enough grip). I upgraded to the KH fusion freeride saddle and adjustable post. The pedals are now the yellow Qu-ax magnesium pedals, which are nice and have lots of grip. The 29 er also has KH duall hole cranks.
I also put brakes on both.

I buy uni parts mostly at municycle or Ajata, both from Germany.
Is you look at the prices, the Qu-ax steel muni is €280.
Saddle is €40, seatpost €30, pedals €40 and KH single hole cranks €65.
That would be a total of €455.
Do the same calculation with the Qu-ax alu muni of €340, and you end up with €515.
I am pretty sure that municycle or Ajata can give you a discount on the upgrades, just ask them.

The KH 26" Muni is € 499, and then you have the nice looking holed rim and alu frame.

Conclusion: if you want to upgrade too many parts, then buy the KH, unless the shop can give you a good discount.

Just my thoughts,

Regards,

Tom

Just some extra info: my Qu-ax 24 and 29 were only €170 each. So upgrading them still was much cheaper then buying a KH. The qu-ax frame and wheel are good enough for me.

OK, first, you should be skeptical about any reported weights for parts. Some are just wrong, while others can vary significantly for parts which are supposed to be identical. So don’t believe it unless you’ve weighed it yourself, and don’t focus on it too much.

To the extent you wish to worry about weight, worry about it for rotating parts only. I recently switched from a KH aluminum frame (which broke), to an old-school KH steel frame (circa 2004), and don’t notice the weight difference at all.

The weight you’ll notice on a MUni will be in the rim, tire and tube. Here you’ll have a tradeoff between the amount of cushioning you have, and the amount of weight you have to deal with. The Duro is actually fairly light for a 3" tire, but 3" tires are heavy. You can ride with a narrower tire with thinner sidewalls, but you’ll need to run with higher air pressure, which isn’t as good for technical MUni.

Any of those models will work fine; the difference will be in how you set them up.

The difference between the unis is more than just frame material, there is also a rim width difference (KH 47, Nimbus 42) as well as a spoke difference (QuAx 48, KH/Nimbus 36), and there’s a quality difference.

Is an aluminum frame worth it? Well, if you have the extra $200, sure, but otherwise steel is real. I’d get the Nimbus frame and a KH wheelset, better yet, get the new Nimbus hub with the KH rim, Nimbus frame, KH post and seat, Venture II cranks, etc…

I’d much rather spend extra to have a custom than spend extra to have a KH. That said, I admit to having three KH customs :wink:

Thanks !
As I’m quite young in the discipline it helps !

I noticed that between Nimbus and Quax there is no “significant” differences.

It was more asking than complaining about weight… I use to ride XC MTB with DH tires so I know that heavier it is harder it is to climb hill.
With less than to months of experience I was not able to know if +/- 1 Kg is really noticeable in Muni.
You told that this is not critical (this discard the QX Series -> one less to hesitate :smiley: ) and I understand the trade-off weight/ability.

@Tom
The price in France are generally higher than in Germany but shipping cost partially compensate and one domestic seller fairly propose upgrade adding just spare part cost difference. I can expect Quax or Nimbus (300€ each)+ KH saddle + KH saddle pole + crank a few under 400€.

On the other side the KH26" is 500€ (“with nice looking rim”) and the “I have already top equipment , I won’t regret the economical choice” peace of mind :sunglasses: ).

Then I need to add brake and body armor…

Fortunately after the entering ticket :astonished: the operational cost seems to be low :smiley: !

W/ the KH it will also be compatable w/ the geared hub if you upgrade to it later (where the other frames aren’t).

You will only notice the weight of things that don’t rotate at all or very little, like the frame and hub, if you do LOTS of hopping (ie tons of trials on/off the trail).

Thanks for your help !
A few pics to illustrate my choice :


Nice mud!

Hey Phillipe, that’s a nice uni there, but that picture of you suggested you’re a little short to ride it quite yet :wink:

:d:d:d