ive been working on this for months and months and months and its finally ridable but not compleated by far. ive still got to get a better tyre, rail adapter and a few more little things before its finished. hopefully it will never really be finished. its more fun to build these things than it is to ride them so when they are compleated i get kinda sad. this uni is definatly more mysterious than anything else ive ever built. the Joe Rowing frame is the first frame i have ever ridin that has a definate differance in feel.
i put almost dead batteries in my cam on purpose to taint the photos. i’ll post some clear shots when i feel its reached a point of presentation. untill then these pic’s will give an idea of whats been going on in Salem for me. last muni ride you ask? 2 months ago in Tahoe.
well? i know of at least two Rowing frames that are over here. mine on the west coast and the other on the east coast.
unibrier, what kind of riding did you want to do? did you want to go to Falls City? i think it will be ready by then. i dont really muni much anymore since the “great Cal Muni Burnout Week-end” but i think i could come out of retirement for a day. my bet is a real muddy day too.
I just have to ask, why do you think the frame feels different than a standard fork style. Does it flex or something?
It just seems to me that no matter what, the geometry of a unicycle is all the same, the frame just changes the angle of the seat. Am I completely off base here? If so why?
"One thing with the unicycle.com hub is that they seem to take more re-tightenings of the cranks before they are seated on the tapers really good. " OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER
Even if the bolt is torqued to 40 foot-pounds with a torque wrench? I’ve never installed a crank on a UDC hub so I don’t know if they’re quirky like that or not.
The situation may be exacerbated by using the Nimbus stock cranks. Those things must be made out of compressed soda cans or something 'cause they love to deform.
I believe one needs an arbor press to properly mount cranks on a square taper hub. Otherwise, carry a wrench, and torque those bolts at the first sign of play. I’ve gone through several cranks in the last year on my uni.com hub 'cause I didn’t get my cranks pressed on.
Your new ride looks great, Jagur, how are you going to “break it in” once it’s complete?
I’ve had steel cranks on a UDC hub on my 29er for months without needing to tighten them. I don’t have a torque wrench, so I don’t know how tight I put them on.
acually i think i will “break it in” by breaking it appart…not through torture but by taking the 26" wheel off. my original plan was to go with a 700c to make a 28er but i found a killer 26" Salsa Gordo rim with no mate down at the shop and i couldnt resist buying and building it up. i think im going to sell it and build up a 700c Salsa Delgado X for the frame. at heart im a road cyclist and 700c just works for me better. the 26 with the 2.5 tyre is so plush though,it just floats!
watch for new thread if anyone wants a good deal on a 26" crusier wheel.
> Even if the bolt is torqued to 40 foot-pounds with a torque wrench?
> I’ve never installed a crank on a UDC hub so I don’t know if they’re
> quirky like that or not.
Mine kept slipping despite torquing to 45 ft-lbs. Apparently European
cranks have a slightly different taper than Taiwanese (the UDC hub is
built for the latter). Also, I don’t think my UDC hub shipped with
proper bolts (the kind with with knurled surfaces similar to a
lockwasher). I’m out of commission right now (broken toe, sore knee),
but will re-install the cranks with red locktite in January.
