When I said that street tricks were artificially hard I did not mean in any way that they were “fake” or anything like that. I simply meant that the challenge involved is purely man-made and not an inherent part of the trail.
Crankflips and unispins to street are like roots and rocks to MUni, without them the ride would not be challenging and when you stop challenging yourself you stop learning.
one footing has been a life saver to me, I almost went off a 20 foot cliff when I lost foot contact on my right pedal, luckily one foot instincts kicked into gear and saved me!
+1
A great way to challenge yourself and improve your uni skill when you can’t get to the trails, or make boaring trails more interesting.
IMO all tricks help improve Muni skill, but some much more than others. Some of the best IMO are: SIF, SIB, seat drag, 1 ft riding, riding backwards, gliding, coasting, hoping SI & SIF, rolling hops, 180’s, still stands, UW, and BC.
Some mildish stuff is done in TWNR on a 20" giraffe.
I have been trying to do street and freestyle on my Torker LX 24" but it isn’t working out for me. Besides, Muni is where it is at. I just got a new Maxxis Hookworm 24"2.5 on my Torker LX 24" that was supposedly supposed to help my street due to higher hops, but I am definately going back to Muni, anyone can ride on a flat ground.
nice rolling, Miles! I think I may have recognized some of those rocks. I’m coming back down to SD again very soon, so maybe you can teach me your latest muni skills.
im new (well want to be new) to muni. i want to ask for one for Christmas but dont know if i should get a 24 or 26. im kinda short, like 5’ 2-3" ish but i also want to be able to get decent speed but not have a wheel i cant handle for muni. thanks for any help!
I ride a 26 with a 3" Gazz, I really like it for most stuff but it is sort of heavy. heavy is not so bad if you need momentum but not so good for fine maneuvering and “flickability”
I am thinking of switching down to a 2.3" tire in spring and see how that goes.
The difference between a 24 and 26 depends on no less than the rider, the terrain, and the tire used. For example, you could make a 26er much less sluggish simply by using a narrower tire. The difference in wheel diameter between a 24 and 26 is pretty insignificant.
Given the choice between the two, I would go with the 24 just because the KH24 is so nice and readily available. But if you have a good deal on a 26 you’d rather have, go with it.