yeah, I’m a sucker for Uni Porn…
Any word on hoe the Clark’s caliper works on a uni? I may have to get one.
Clark Skeletal for Disc MUni
Nothing Negative to say about any of the brakes we’ve tested. However I will say that the lever position on the Clark Skeletal is ideal. It is very precise, and the small throw screw in front of handle gives between 5-7cm handle-to-spooner variable. Obviously aesthetically appealing brake too. 
Close to getting a deal to get calipers and handles added to the Mountainuni packages. It won’t be a required buy, but if customer’s wanted, it can be added to an overall kit purchase. Lots of choices, so I don’t want to make anyone’s decision for them. Especially when colors are involved.
I got my baby back this morning… still it’s waiting for T-bar to attach the lever, so probably first real test in two days (I hope).
The caliper has been filed to make IS mount fit easily with the rotor bolts.
I am loving your pedals
If you do drill and bob Sinz cranks, it would be cooler to just hack up some 175’s, since anything under 155 is rare and would be a shame to cut down. We are working on a solution for crank sizes in ISIS… and multiple pedal positions.
100/125/150 or 110/130/150 for pedal positions?
while the website is under construction…
This link is for ordering product while we’re working on the site
purchasing notes:
We have not run into a hydraulic brake that didn’t work with the system -yet. I know that virtually any mechanical disc brake is too wide to work with this system.
as far as the cranks, we have tried other cranks and found that the rotor placement tends to run too close to the frame, the “dish” of the spider on the sinz is very shallow and keeps the chain ring bolts and rotor far enough away from most frames with an 8mm crank stop (spacer). You may certainly try other brands of cranks and post the compatibility on the thread, but the Sinz works and that is what we recommend.
So, please try other cranks, but if you are going to buy them, I’d stick with Sinz. We have ruled out AC and redline bmx cranks so far.
Coker Cycle Co…
The Coker Cycle Company is content with the current v-brake system on their unicycles and will not seek to feature MountainUni.com disc brakes on their unicycles or as an option in the future.
We sent them a set and I don’t believe they even tried it because they are sending the mount tab back as well. They are conservative to say the least.
This does not mean that MountainUni will not be availing an aftermarket system consistent with their product in the future. We will be prototyping a Coker specific 40mm/threaded Uni-Caliper Mount, and if there is any demand, we will offer it in the future.
To those ends, are there any square taper Schlumpf hub users that ride Coker frames? Is Coker compatible with Schlumpf?
Nice color Vookash! (it matches the chain ring bolts perfectly too!) and thank you for the heads up on filing the brake with dedicated ISO mount, I think we’ll recommend post style brakes with ISO adapter in the future. Nice work, it looks awesome!
Measured the bearing mounts on my koxx 20" with callipers and the bolt holes were exactly 50mm centre to centre.
For the coker/square taper unicycles could you just put half a bearing shim in the holder and call it good?
we could, but if we have a sclumpf compatible 42mm bearing cap with the inside lip no taller than 2mm and we shim it, then there is only 1mm of material holding in the bearing. The other issue is that the Coker bearing caps are threaded. I think it’s cheesey to just put in longer bolts and nut them under the bearing cap and shim it! So, we’re making a proto for 40mm that will be threaded specific to Coker. Also, wondering if we should bother making it Schlumpf compatible, Coker may not be.
I think 1mm of overlap would be plenty. What about a sort of Tee nut that would wedge itself into the bearing holder from below for the Coker? After the initial installation it would effectively stay in place, and behave much like the original Coker lower cap.
Now that I think of it, why not have the Tee nut wedge in from the top, and then the bolts could be run from the bottom like a normal uni?
t nuts sound good, but inserted into the top of the frame, it may have to be reamed and void any warranties.
I don’t think I would worry too much about the square taper schlumpf hubs. If the schlumpf serial numbers thread is any guide it is a really small market.
The coker frames are too wide for a Schlumpf hub anyway.
I also wouldn’t worry about the 1mm lip if you just add a shim for 40mm bearings. I used a piece of strapping (no lip at all) as a lower bearing holder for a while and had no problems. Lollypop bearing holders don’t have an inner lip at all.
Front vs. rear disc brake calipers sets?
Is there any reason you want a front vs. rear caliper brake set for one of these MountainUni rotors? I plan to put it on a 36" uni with handle bars, so I need enough tubing to reach: probably 32" minimum. Should I get a rear caliper set to be sure I have enough tubing?
Is there any difference between front and rear caliper sets other than the length of tubing? Does anyone know how much tubing is standard in a set?
Thank you.
Scott
Get a 74mm post style caliper with ISO 51mm “stand-off” adapter.
the rear brake has enough hose probably 1250-1400mm, I think the front hose is like 750mm.
I am wondering if there is a difference in the ISO adapter for rear brakes? Will you be welding on a mount or use the Uni-Caliper Mount? (you may need to get the front 180mm adapter if the rear adapter doesn’t fly if you’re using the Uni-Caliper Mount.) if you are welding the adapter on and the thing has a 160mm adapter it should bolt right up.
if the rear ISO adapter is different than the front and it doesn’t bolt up to the Uni-Caliper Mount -please post your findings. if you use the Uni-Caliper Mount the brakes should come with a 180mm ISO adapter. (if it comes with a 180mm rotor it will work with the “UCM” …I’m tired of typing Uni-Caliper Mount!)
Tektro, Formula, Shimano, gusset, diatech, and Magura make brakes with 180mm rotors. a lot of the rears just use 160mm rotors, then get a front adapter from a LBS cheap for the UCM.
It may have to be reamed out, but maybe not. I’ve seen some Tee nuts with very thin walls, and I don’t know if the Coker frames have tight tolerances for the bolt holes. Another consideration would be to go with a smaller diameter bolt figuring that the tee nut would take up the space and provide a snug fit with little or no play. If the bolt was grade 8 or better it should be more than strong enough to do the job without flexing/bending/breaking.
good call. I can’t wait to see the pics of your mechanical brake set up on this thread. What cranks did you use? I also like your one off bolt on mount for your nightrider.