I’m shopping laser cutting fabricators and have found one locally that is involved in the cycling industry cutting specialty titanium tubing and etching for some excellent manufacturers. I’ll be meeting with them tomorrow, since I haven’t gotten a quote from the other fabricator in 2 months! once we have rotors and weld on mounts we can start selling them.
Right now the Sinz Expert crank is the best option. we do not have them in stock, we do not have them in dual hole. [COLOR=“Red”]if you drill them for dual hole, do not do drops with them.[/COLOR] We’ll be working a new angle with cranks hopefully soon. We will make a nightrider mount available, and soon we will have both a nimbus and KH 42mm bearing holder caliper mount, maybe not at first, but to follow.
they are steel and they are wonderful - but because of the “S” shape of the side tubes they are a little flexy and I think they stop production - but there may be some in stock anywhere.
there is no backlash, no klick, and no slipping feel - it feels rather like a fixed hub.
if you use rim brake you feel always this little play - because the cranks are not under continous force but using disk - crank - brake you have continous force in one direction and no klick - klack
Disk protection:
just two pics witch show that the disk is relative protected by the pedals -
Each Uni is a little different. See all the Unis that I’ve installed disks on… We used different cranks on Jays, and I had to space the crank out with a different size crank stop. We reverse engineered the Nimbus 29er with ISIS weld on, and the bolt on worked on the 36er with ISIS! On Jeff’s hunter, he had a specialty hub and we had to machine the cranks to interface, that put the disk against the frame, and we just swapped around spacers. Jogi had the mount installed first, then just moved spacers and made a widget that is totally awesome to work with his ISIS Schlumpf! TheRhino with square taper did what I expect you would do, assemble your cranks to your wheel with the disk installed, bolt the mount to the caliper, and tack the mount where it lands on your frame with the caliper squeezed on the rotor. should line up, and the Surly tubes look like they offer tons of clearance. I would like to see how you mount your caliper if you did not use the weld on, I love innovation!
haha, - yes its a broken 20" KH frame.
it was just a test to see how I want to have a handlebar but it was so well and now I ride it nearly half a year…
I use it with a Carbon saddleplate made from “akaestle” and in this combination it is very stiff and light. Its fixed with one screw through the brake lever mount and one through the seat handle.
I didn´t work it very fine because it just should be a test:o
On my Nightrider frame I did a bit of measuring and found that my BB5 sticks too far into the spokes in order to work with a 180mm rotor. From my best guess I would say that a 210mm rotor would be needed to give the right clearance to the driver side of the BB5.
So, does anyone know of a caliper that has a lower profile on the piston side than a BB5?
For reference the BB5 is about 42mm’s from the center of the caliper slot to the outside of the piston driver, and about 32mm’s from the center of the post mount holes to the outside of the piston driver.
If I could find something with about 5mm’s less it would give the spokes a bit of breathing room.
with the size of the BB5, I think you may also have to worry about hitting the crank too. I like the idea of a mech brake so you can run a shift lever drag brake. This is a great question. Hmmm… and running them on the right side means that the lever is in toward the spokes.
It looks like there is plenty of clearance on the crank arm side, but not on the wheel side.
Once I get a system up and running I want to have a shift lever for drag, and an inline cyclocross type lever for intermittent braking. That way I will be able to get the best of both world so to speak. I also like the simplicity of a cable system.
My plan is to have the cable housing stop at the fork crown, and to send the bare cable down to the caliper from there. This would fore go the barrel adjuster on the caliper. It would make a clean line with less housing to add friction to the system. If it ends up working I may just cut the barrel adjuster arm off of the caliper altogether to make it cleaner and lighter.
42mm od bearings are common to ISIS, and 40od bearings are common to square taper. How do we get square taper to be as predictable at crank spacing as ISIS, convert the bearings to accept the ISIS and maintain the 40mm od!
BB5/BB7 Forget it, but that’s not the end of the story
So, after working with the bb5 for a while trying to figure out how to get it to work with a rotor smaller than 200-210, I gave up. This caliper won’t work.
A friend gave me an old mechanical caliper with no name that was a little narrower, but not enough. The upside is that when I took the dust cap off on the driver side there was about 3mm’s of material there that was serving only to hold the dust cap on. So, I took out my grinder, and now I’ve got room to spare. I went ahead and sawed the barrel adjuster arm off of the caliper as well. I think I’ll be able to run the bare cable inside the frame up to a barrel adjuster mounted to one of my maggy bosses. It should make for a very clean cable routing.
Unfortunately I have no idea what kind of brake this is. It has pads that look like Hayes, but I couldn’t find a Hayes mechanical caliper that uses these pads. I’m sure there are other calipers that either work, or could be made to work. If anyone has any idea what this one is let me know.
Sorry for the lousy webcam picture, but hopefully it’s enough to make an ID.
I think that one is made in China. We’re looking to another fabricator to get us a quote. We did finally hear back from the initial guy, but since we started looking at other places, we should get those quotes as well. It won’t be long before we see production, and Hopefully not too long we’ll see Jtrops slick set up. I am excited to see a shift lever drag brake!
