That’s great! Well done! I would sure call it a Micromachine if you like commuting on it. Portability is a key element.
But I also agree with @SirCranky. The point of this thread, and the term Micro Machine is setting your 12, 16 or 20" wheel up for speed and distance, with rather short cranks.
Anything with cranks 89mm and shorter is on topic and encouraged as well.
Fixed! Ok. So now let’s ride this machine. I won’t merely struggle with pedal strike, but actual crank strike so my strategy is to pull the saddle for each half rev to drag the uni after me.
Well, this was even worse than I expected. Even after a few attempts I just couldn’t make it through the second half-rev. The foot just slipped of the pedal. I would need to keep ut the speed or somehow attach my foot to the pedal. Also I don’t want to ruin my son’s hub so I left it at that. @Ruari suggested I find a thin, elevated curb, but I will leave that challenge to someone else.
Also, this was so difficult to pull off that I am considering to remove another thing from my bucket list:
Riding a spokeless hub with only frame, cranks and pedals. I might still attempt it though, @Wheelou Maybe that is the future of unicycling - 0 gain ratio!
I think you should try it on lawn. Look out for a nice golf course - that‘s less bumpy than an ordinary lawn, which will of course be of great help with such a small wheel.
And then: put your foot down! f-spin:
This is the only time long cranks should be used. On wheel sizes where they are longer than the wheel. That makes sense to me. I mean long cranks are so stupid anyway, if we are doing it, let’s go all the way.
you’re all yapping about shorter cranks on this thread (before this ridiculous 170mm).
Why not leave the cranks out all the way. Then all you need is a nice downhill section.
This is exactly what you need to learn to be able to ride a mediumcycle= half a unicycle. Just jump every revolution. How fast could someone go with it? 1/2 rear wheel=mediumcycle