Mad4One 10-Pin cranks on Schlumpf hub?

Unicycles and Equipment
1

It’s been more than a year that I have been looking for custom dual-hole ISIS cranks for my G36er. I have not found any company that would like to work on the subject. Yesterday, a friend of mine told me that Mad4One 10-Pin interface should be easier to manufacture than standard ISIS, while providing compatibility with ISIS hubs. He would also help me to find a manufacturer.

However, I’m a bit nervous about trying out this interface on a Schlumpf hub without previous reviews. So, here’s my question: has anybody already used 10-Pin cranks on a Schlumpf hub? Does that work? Is there any compatibility issue?

@MAD4ONE, if you have any input on the subject, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! :slight_smile:

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2

@jaco_flans can drill additional holes in ISIS cranks. Have you been in contact with him.

3

Sure, but it’s difficult to find a pair of straight 155 mm ISIS cranks that can be drilled without making them too weak.

4

M4O used to have 159/138/117 cranks. Is 159mm too long for you?

5

From what I was told, cranks with pins tend to start creaking over time. One of the reasons I do not offer a crank yet. Manufacturing with pins is a much easier process than having to broach and form the ISIS interface.
Cranks with Pins are also ISIS, they follow the same measurements, available online. No reason why they shouldn’t fit on an ISIS hub.

3 Likes
6

This may work, but I would have liked to go lower than 138 for the hole I would use on a daily basis.

What if we change the pins from time to time, when they start creaking? :thinking:

7

What size cranks are you looking for starting 155mm as I have a set of old Madforone cranks that are around 155 or 158, 3 hole cranks.

8

I would say:

  • longer hole between 150 and 160, with a sweet spot at 155
  • shorter hole (or middle hole if triple-hole cranks) between 130 and 135, with a sweet spot at 133 I would say

If you have something like that to sell, that would be greatly appreciated!

9

I would consider the following options:

  • Source a Nimbus VCX 170mm crank and drill your new holes close to your desired positions. There should be enough space for 133 + 153 or nearby. I do not see this crank option on UDC US / UK right now, but you can probably order from UDC Korea, or maybe from elsewhere.
  • Buy a Nimbus VCX 165mm or 150mm and drill one hole at or near 133mm.
  • Get an E-Bike 170+mm crankset and drill your holes. You’ll get increased Q-factor and questionable strength.
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10

You could try asking Pinnd – www.pinnd.co.uk.

They have several of their own eBike cranks, but I think their main business is in contract precision machining (Contract Solutions Scotland), so they might be able to customise something for you.

11

It’ll stop creaking, until it starts creaking again :melting_face:

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12

:rofl:

Is this due to the material? What if we use steel instead of aluminium for the pins? Would that creak? :thinking:

13

It’s mostly due to the fact that there are multiple pieces with a slide-fit together. The little amount of play between all of those will create the creaking. I dont know if epoxing the pins in could work, but the pins material would have to be really good to start with so you wouldn’t have to replace them.

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