It’s been more than a year that I have been looking for custom dual-hole ISIS cranks for my G36er. I have not found any company that would like to work on the subject. Yesterday, a friend of mine told me that Mad4One 10-Pin interface should be easier to manufacture than standard ISIS, while providing compatibility with ISIS hubs. He would also help me to find a manufacturer.
However, I’m a bit nervous about trying out this interface on a Schlumpf hub without previous reviews. So, here’s my question: has anybody already used 10-Pin cranks on a Schlumpf hub? Does that work? Is there any compatibility issue?
@MAD4ONE, if you have any input on the subject, that would be greatly appreciated.
From what I was told, cranks with pins tend to start creaking over time. One of the reasons I do not offer a crank yet. Manufacturing with pins is a much easier process than having to broach and form the ISIS interface.
Cranks with Pins are also ISIS, they follow the same measurements, available online. No reason why they shouldn’t fit on an ISIS hub.
Source a Nimbus VCX 170mm crank and drill your new holes close to your desired positions. There should be enough space for 133 + 153 or nearby. I do not see this crank option on UDC US / UK right now, but you can probably order from UDC Korea, or maybe from elsewhere.
Buy a Nimbus VCX 165mm or 150mm and drill one hole at or near 133mm.
Get an E-Bike 170+mm crankset and drill your holes. You’ll get increased Q-factor and questionable strength.
They have several of their own eBike cranks, but I think their main business is in contract precision machining (Contract Solutions Scotland), so they might be able to customise something for you.
It’s mostly due to the fact that there are multiple pieces with a slide-fit together. The little amount of play between all of those will create the creaking. I dont know if epoxing the pins in could work, but the pins material would have to be really good to start with so you wouldn’t have to replace them.
Greetings all,
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread. I have a 2nd gen schlumpf, and I run M4O 3-way cranks on it. The settings are 150, 130, and 110. The frame is an older KH36 (from back when they came with magura rim brake mounts). I had to grind back one of the bearing housings to make the schlumpf work (that was standard back then), and it wasn’t easy to get the cranks to fit properly. (This build is about 10 yrs old, and my exact recollection is a bit fuzzy.)
I think the current versions of everything fit together better than they used to.
Anyway, back to the point, I think you can use the M4O cranks, with the separate pins, but expect to have to fiddle with it to make it work.
Cheers!
Edit: I just remembered. There was a spacing issue with the pins. I solved it by taking a sheet metal punch and punching out small discs (1/8" I think) of 18ga steel, a little smaller than the pins, and putting them into the pin slots before the pins. I can’t recall the exact problem, but that solved it.
