Loose seatpost (top piece) fix

While riding MUni this morning, I noticed my saddle kept turning to one side, so I thought the seatpost clamp was loose. Nope. It was the fitting at the top of the seatpost that was Loose!

This is the older KH seatpost version with the top piece that is press-fit into the seat post, and although it wasn’t coming out vertically, it was moving left or right. Never had this issue before today.

So I decided to drill a hole through it and using Josh’s suggestion, I used a “roll pin” rather than a bolt, so it would be flush with the seatpost. Seems to have worked great and it’s rock solid now. Pics below.








Roll pins are our freinds.

Thanks for the repair photos Terry. I also have not had any trouble with this type of post to date but my unis don’t get near the use that you’re’s do.

I had the same problem with my vintage '07 KH24 setup. Fortunately I already had a Thompson seatpost I was waiting to use so I just swapped out the seat posts. Still have the old KH seatpost lying around that I could put to use using your method; nice!


I may fix my “broken” kh up as a spare as well.

Thanks for the info. This is happening to me too. I will try your approach.
But excuse my ignorance, but what is a “roll pin” ? thanks.

This is a problem that’s been around, Terry’s post is the early version that was only glued, then the later version came pinned as Terry has done.

I’ve loosened the pinned version as well, so the real fix is the most recent “forged” one piece post which is sadly only available for 27.2 (KH).

The forged posts are amazing, very similar to a Thompson, but they fit the adjustable base bracket.

Roll or tension pins are a hardened spring steel, split, hollow core securement device used to keep an outer pipe or sleeve from turning or coming loose from an insert that has been placed inside it. A hole is drilled through both the inner & outer parts & the pin which is slightly larger than the hole is driven into the hole & tightens up due to compression.

See Terry’s very adequate photos above.

Yes. Thanks.

I tried another approach… I used J-B Weld instead. I don’t think it will last long, but it was easier to for me than to drill the seat post. I will let you know how many days/weeks it lasts.

@Terry, simple and easy fix !

I 've broken one forged posts (back ear fly away during one of my first jump landing) but fixed it with 12mm steel axle and longer screws:

Probably stronger than ever it weight 315g (with the post cut down to 29cm) far less than I feared (new it was 320g for 35cm long).

I had a similar problem so used JB-Weld and tapped holes for 6 stainless steel screws, one on front and back and two on the sides. So far it’s holding up.