Kooka crank surgery

Hi y’all

My right Kooka crank is now so far advanced up the square taper of the Suzue hub that it now touches the bearing holder. This stops free rotation of the wheel.

I thought to fix this I could either try shimming the taper or grinding off some of the inner lip of the crank. I’ve tried shims made from aluminium cans in the past and they haven’t lasted long - they turn into Al paste very quickly. I wonder if the plumbers’ shim would last longer as its made of stronger metal? The other more drastic fix is to grind off some metal from the inboard inside of the crank. As the right crank is designed to accept a spider there is a 3mm lip that could be ground off to give a little clearence between crank and bearing holder. The downside of doing this is that it shortens the square hole in the crank and thus reduces the contact area with the flats of the taper. I wonder if there is another, better way?

Any suggestions, anyone?

Well, one idea is to grind off the lip and then move that set of cranks to your Coker arsenal, and get another set of Kookas for what I presume to be your MUni. With the Coker you won’t be doing the drops and it would be nice to have the longer cranks for extremely hilly terrain.