Ok, great advice on the speed…looks like I’ll try the 29” and see how I get along and worst case scenario I add a schlumpf or get a 36er later. I feel like for my height and the mostly off road I would ride the 29er seems better and I have owned a scchlumpf before and while heavy they do work…
Maybe first I’ll just learn how to ride though. Lol
It’s never wise to get ahead of yourself, and unicycling is not always as easy as one might assume.
I hope it works out for you.
Can you elaborate on this please? This thread is about figuring out what uni to learn on so why have you owned a schlumpf before? Was it in a penny farthing?
No, I put one in my single speed van moof bicycle and toured all of Japan with it. The bike needed a climbing gear so I bought the mountain drive and got up anything with it…it was great but pretty heavy. Not having cables or shifters was great. Unfortunately I burned up my coaster brake in the mountains! Added a front break and kept on going. Eventually the schlumpf started creaking at about 8,000 km which was annoying…overall though the schlumpf did what I needed it to do and probably well worth it for units I’d imagine.
If you’re making a box, that will work. Otherwise, the flying part will be a big pain. It’s better to leave the tire on if you can, as it protects the rim but if the airline rules are strictly applied, this could be a problem. This is the type of bag I fly with: 2003, Twin Cities, Minnesota - unicycling
(that an following pictures). Note the two zippers that make the bag smaller. You would probably need to have one of them extended but not the other, and it looks like “regular” luggage so it attracts less attention. Note that bag fit three unis (plus other stuff), the largest being a 24" Muni with 3" tire.
That being said, you can eliminate the majority of the transportation hassles if you get a smaller starter uni, like a 24". Not that you can’t learn on a 29, it’s totally doable but won’t necessarily take you a lot longer depending on your fitness level and determination. 24" is a great all-around size to learn and get around on. Put some short cranks on there and you can do some decent speed, with practice. 100mm or less will work fine for cruising, but I recommend something between 125-140 for learning. Steel square taper cranks are cheap, if you can obtain them where you are.
Don’t try riding fast too soon; better to be comfortable riding on various surfaces, bumps, rough, etc. first. And remember, it is impossible at first, but that’s the same for everybody. Stick with it and you will have conquered the impossible. 
Yeah, I’m kinda thinking if it’s fully deflated but still on rim I can pack the wheel and frame then take the seat and pedals in my carry on. They very much are strict on the 62” rule unfortunately. Maybe a 28” x 6” box giving 62” would maybe still fit wheel with deflated tire?
The 29” appeals to me for the thick gravel we have here. I fear that the 24” would sink in many spots. I’m stuck here for at least nine months so I want the best uni for that time even if means some growing pains….
Thanks much for the help
Maybe you should consider a 27.5"… with a big tire, the wheel is almost as big as a 29". There are 3.8" out there which are bouncy yet easier to maneuver than fat tires. And with the tire off, you’re more likely to fit it on the plane.
I took a 29" across the Atlantic a couple of years ago, I had to pay for extra luggage of course. It was a tight fit because the wheel is bigger than one thinks and brings the box really close to flight regulations. Also got into a fight in NYC when I switched to my second flight, as the guy at the counter insisted that it was a bike (extra money required), and I argued that it was sporting goods. Nearly missed my flight as I’m stubborn (you’ll need it to learn unicycling) and insisted until I spoke to a higher ranked person.
You really are getting ahead of yourself!
That’s going to be about momentum amongst other things, so no, no more so than any other wheel will.
My two cents: Consider a 32". I ride a 32" in the city all the time, up to 25 miles or so. It’s quite a bit faster than a 29", but more maneuverable than a 36". Mine is fitted with 127mm cranks so I get almost a 10mph cruising speed. Wit the 29" I feel that you’ll be working really hard to keep up with your wife. The advantage of a 29 of course is its easier on the hills, but crank length can help mitigate climbing problems.
Unfortunately probably not; tires don’t compress that well unless they’re really thin and flexible. Also, unicycle axles are wider than you may think; 6" might not be enough. It’s highly recommended to keep the cranks on if possible, to prevent the axle from punching through the box. 
@petchon That’s a thought, I think I might prefer the 29 for the off road and hills of southern Spain where I will reside and I need the thing to fit in a 62” box.
@jon fuss yeah I’m thinking about that too. Maybe remove tire, bubble wrap it and then it’ll fit in a 27”x27” giving 8” width…
I think this may be the only way to do it…
It’s absolutely not a bike. Bicycles have two wheels! If this comes up in the future, explain to the non-cycling expert that insurance claims on bikes are almost always related to frame damage, which is not a thing for unicycles. 
Also because frequent removal and reinstallation of (especially ISIS) cranks is a bad idea.
I also think 32" is a great (and underrated) size. I wouldn’t recommend learning on a 32" either, but for a lot of people I think 32" is a more practical and suitable size than 36". You tend to lose about 1mph between the two, which isn’t much.
That is not correct. The current marathon “standard” male WR is 1:40:39.148, set in 2016 with 89 mm cranks. That boils down to 25.15 km/h average speed.
You are correct, apparently I can’t type in numbers into a calculator correctly…