The flanges on the hubs needs to be flexible, it is a common mistake to build hubs with rigid flanges… you then get your spokes snapping.
Roger
I have never snapped a spoke.
I have snapped some niples and I broke a hole out of the KH/Onza hub.
Peter M
To be honest Roger, I’d rather have one or two spokes snapping after 6 months of jumping about than have a wheel constantly ruined and needing truing from super flexy flanges that bend inwards the whole time. In the long run, surely bendy flanges are not a plus? From what Peter has said and gone through, a slight alteration is necessary.
The Koxx hubs seem fine right now, just looking at my Koxx wheel I used to have which is now in the hands of Isaac LeMasters… the flanges were perfect on that, in that they haven’t bent at all, and no spokes have snapped. The wheel at the same time is also reasonably true.
^The exact same applies to every one of Joe’s Koxx wheels except his wheels are a little bit more out of true :p. Still, no spoke snappage.
Koxx seem to have their hubs just about right, strength wise. It would appear..
Sponge has it right here.
I vote for a stronger flanges setup.
Peter M
ha you guys are funny. You think the koxx have a different material on their flanges. 
The difference between the koxx and KH is that the flanges on the KH are wider so are more prone to knocking and have more force on them pulling them in. Sponge has touched on the reason for the flanges being wider it makes the wheel stronger. It is not hard to keep an eye on the tension of your wheel, after a short time you get to the stage where no more deformation will happen.
There was a hub manufactured with rigid flanges a few years ago. It broke multiple spokes within weeks… not months! the design was changed to have the industry standard design which is a malleable flange. This dealt with their problems.
Roger
Nope, I never even once thought the Koxx hubs used a different flange material. They are all the same 4130 chromoly, based on website descriptions. 
Still, no deformation would be better than any deformation at all. I’m not an anti-KH and pro-Koxx type of rider at all, but in an unbiased view the Koxx hub has a better balance. Out of the many many many Koxx wheels I’ve seen and ridden (Joe’s 6 or so in total?, including my own, and many other peoples’) none have suffered from spoke snappage whatsoever. Sure, I agree that the KH Moment hub can give a stronger wheelbuild to start with theoretically, but in practice having it slightly more similar to how the Koxx hub is would be better overall. Or completely overhaul the design that stands out on top by a longshot, but that’s hard. :o
I like to see improvements in products and it’s always great to see new innovations coming out every year. I’ve already suggested a lot of possible improvements and modifications Kris could make to improve all his components for the future, and from the last email he sent me, he seems to have done so for the rim and the hub at least.
I personally like to go by the phrase “Strive for nothing less than excellence”. I’m sure all manufacturers think in the same way too.
I am aware about the wide of the KH flanges.
I told this to Kris in an email.
Most people who do tech grinds and stuff will bend the flage by grinding against them.
But since I havn’t done any tech grinds on my second hub, and it’s still deforming I say something is not right.
Peter M
The flanges on hubs are not CrMo. We do not describe them as so on our website. We state “Tempered 4130 CrMo spindle and hub” and then state that the “Flange material hardness and shape are designed to maximise spoke strength.” I do have the specification for the material and it’s harness, but it would mean absolutely nothing to you or anyone else, hence the simple explanation. I will certainly discuss this with the manufacturer when I meet them in March.
The widening of the flanges on hubs that took place 5 years ago has dramatically increased the life and durability of unicycle wheels. We see this through our store in the number of failed wheels returned or reported.
Design and development of products is always an interesting subject. The simple question of what makes a product good design is incredibly hard to quantify as it is so subjective, even when analysed as a professional looking at it is a scientific way. A good analysis tool for good design is to think of a Venn diagram with 3 fields (the constituent parts of design). Aesthetic, function and manufacture… hmmm you can tell what my other job is can’t you. Hmmm… must get on with my VAT return. :-S
Roger
Oh, my bad. I assumed that ‘4130 CrMo spindle and hub’ meant that the whole construction was chromoly, seeing as the flange is part of the hub. Meh.
Actually one more thing that I don’t think anyone has commented on, and that I would certainly like to see, is a bit less tyre clearance on the KH frame. For most freestyle and street/flat tricks riders like to have a low crown, and this is something that would be nice on the KH frame. However, due to the tapering tube shape of the forks, this mightn’t be quite so simple as adding a bit of length to a seattube would be. This is somthing to keep in mind though if the frame is ever completely re-designed
I was actually thinking about lowering clearance on all the KH frames by 7 mm. That still keeps enough clearance for every existing tire plus a little bit for larger tires if they become available in future. Comments?
Kris
THAT and a longeck/semi longneck frame would be illl…i would buy it…
You’re going to sell a lot more frames if they’re like that, I’d get one!
I was going to say to go about 1cm lower. 7mm works just as well. I think that would be a good medium for all styles. I mainly ride trials and muni, so its perfect for that, specially when the tire muds up and im getting rocks stuck on the tire, with it too low I would of had a few rocks jam up in there im sure.
I also do a bit of street, but because thats all spins and flips, the clearance of the frame really doesnt matter to me. The only streetish trick I do that involves using the frame would be a donkeykick. Everything else needing the frame is freestyle and flatland.
If you do make the frame a bit lower and more suited for the flatland rider, will you be strengthening the neck of the seattube? Two frames that come to mind that have a good strength at this point are the Qu-Ax frame and the Triton frame. Flatland puts some new stresses onto the seatpost that you usually dont see from street, trials, and muni.
One other thing, do we really need the cutouts on the flanges of the hub? Right now there are 4 cutouts on each flange, and each says KH and is a pretty good size cutout. Instead you could keep the same 4 cutouts, but just have two of them be a K, and the other two be an H. Still be your initials, and possible give a bit more strength to the flanges because less material will be removed.
Keep up the good work. Its good to have a brand that is keeping up with the demands of the sport.
I would love to see that happen. That would give a nice, lower crown while still being practical for different styles and tyres.
Far out all these changes are getting me excited! How soon could we expect to see the KH uni updated? I’m definitely considering buying one, depending on price and release date
“Artist’s impression” of the new KH 
With a slightly lower seat to make the longneck more obvious. And a black hub
P.s. Thanks for the photo Uni_Dude_DX
I don’t deserve to talk to such awesomeness!!!
I’m just really surprised that I don’t see hardly any RED frames! Red will be the next color frame for me, but maybe not quite as dark as the KH above.
Oh, and since my KH muni has black spokes, I plan to paint that Fugly blue hub myself..by hand, without having to remove it! Black enamel and brush. Done.
Screw fancy paint jobs. My goal is to have my MUni as mud colored as possible before spring.
Clearance
I am actually quite happy with the current clearance. I ride a lot of muni inthe mud and big clearance is very benificial. If Kris is to reduce cleariance it should be only on the KH20.
Unicorn