It rolls smoother because it’s a bigger wheel, so it takes more to destabilize it; also takes more to restabilize it
For mounting, try a rollback, use a little more pre load on your crank so the uni kicks back into you, then use that momentum to rebound forward and start rolling.
So you do you get out of the garage much to ride?
Today I’m trying out my Flatfish “flat” seat on a 29", but tomorrow it’s flowing single track on the 36er. I’ll take some pics if my wife comes along.
And so ya don’t think I’m slipping (Feisty), with all that stability in the big wheel, wouldn’t it makes sense to have a hub that downshifts? Then you’d have a low gear for climbing and riding slow (tech stuff, tight areas, traffic), then kick it into high gear for fast cruising.
I have to hope the 36er straight more than the 29er which you can recover with leaning instead, having the confidence to just let the 36er find its own way takes some getting used to that big old flywheel knows what it wants to do it is normally the rider that screws it up
I did a 40 mile ride offroad today (mainly flat) but as there were a few hills and some rough sections (and I was mean to be going with my mate on his 29er) I went for the 165mm holes which sucked it was reasonably fast (50 mins faster than on my 29er) but really hard work the 137mm holes would have been to much loss of control on all the bumps and ruts etc, thinking 150/125mm cranks on pay day all the hills are going to suck
If only there was a way to down gear at the flick of a button
Cool…I’ll try it, thx! Yeah, between commuting and weekend play I’m getting about 40-50 road miles / week on the 29er–check some of the other videos on my channel–but this’ll definitely increase now!
OK, I’m done. I just used a bouncier version my default no-hands static mount–works great. Gargantu-Wheel is tamed. Now I can go for bigger miles and smiles. YAY! Thanx, posters.
