I used the entire bottle of “Joe’s Super Sealant” - 125ml.
The guy at the LBS said that I would probably need to add some more sealant every once in 3 months.
However, if I take the core valve out to examine the level of sealant wouldn’t the sealant burst right out of it due to the high PSI level?
Thanks for the tips Ben!
To check the level of the sealant, deflate the tire first. Then remove the core and check the level.
When you add sealant again, make sure you do it through the valve stem. I tried popping a bead off to add sealant and it was a nightmare getting the tire to seat again.
Tubeless question: I was going to try out a smaller tubeless tire, probably a 29", to see how it goes before I move on to a 36".
I see people using gorilla tape. Do you just tape inside the rim, but not on the edges where the tire contacts the rim? Is the contact surface between the tire and rim rubber on metal, or is there something else there?
Thanks!
Scott
Hi Scott,
The beads of tire contact directly the rim which is metal only - at least this is how it is on my 36" rim.
Regarding your second question - I used Stan’s tubeless tape rim (25 mm) and I only put it on the center of the rim (one layer only) above the spokes holes and I only had “two layers” in a 10-20 cm long right above the valve hole - simply start sticking the tape before the valve hole and finish it after you pass over the valve hole again (for reinforcement).
You can see the photos (posted earlier in this thread) of my rim with the rim tape only and with the polyethylene which I had to use to solve the specific bead to rim contact issue (the beads were too far from the rim).
BTW - a funny thing, the LBS I went for help with the tubeless set up is called “Scott Bikes” 
I hope that helps.
Shay
Hey Scott,
The Tubeless tape in a 25mm width will work for most rims that we use for unicycling, the exception would be a rim with cutouts. Cutout rims are a problem because the tape will sag into the cutouts and leak.
The tubeless rim tape is designed to seal the spoke holes and act as a rim liner, so it is plenty strong enough to do this, and because it is light weight and has good tensile strength, it is a better chocie than Gorilla tape.
The only time you need a complete rim liner like a ghetto “filleted” inner tube is if you have a rim that won’t seal due it’s design. I have not had this problem, but I suppose it could happen with a less expensive rim, one that has a seam along the hook.
The tape is only designed to seal the spoke area of the rim, the tire bead will seal the hook. If you have an exceptionall wide rim, you might end up doing two wraps of tape to cover all the way into the rim shoulder, but be sure and stay out of the hook.
If you are going to make a cut out rim into tubeless, you will need to find a way to seal the cutouts that will not sag over time and with use. Personally, I think making a cut out rim into tubeless is just asking for a leak, better off rebuilding with a different rim, something lighter weight or stronger depending on your persuasion.
The Nimbus D2 and the Velocity P35 seal fine. I have made tubeless on the D2 in 36" and 29", and a 650b and 29" in the Velocity. Neither rim is “designed” for tubeless, but that doesn’t really matter 
Dear Ben and Shay,
Thank you for the clarification. I do have a cut-out rim on one unicycle, but I will try out the tubeless on something else for now. I will probably try some 25 mm tubeless tape as you have recommended. Here is a blurb about gorilla tape that sounded promising:
Scott
Looks nice.
Good luck!
Scott,
I’ve done mtb rims with the gorilla tape, and it works great. If you decide to go that route, skip the potential trip to the emergency room by not cutting the tape like they recommend. Gorilla tape will tear straight, clean, and true once you get it started. So, nip the end of the tape and carefully start spooling it off. No need to cut through multiple layers.
I’m not sure how it will deal with sagging through the holes of a cutout rim - guess there’s only one way to find out! Were it me, I might try with a layer of spinnaker repair tape which is a rip-stop nylon tape. It’s super light and quite strong in a tensile way. I’d overlay that with a layer of gorilla tape for the air-tight (and sealant proof) layer.
Good luck!
I’d run a standard rubber rim strip and then tape over it, but that’s just me. 
I dont think i can tubeless my Drilled Dominator 2 rim.
I have a 36er i bought that was already drilled by the guy i got it from (works at UDC Aus). It looks pretty mean and i blew up a foss tube in it so i thought hhmmmm maybe tubeless for it but…
On close inspection the bead of the Nightrider along the inside of the rim seems to touch most the width of the rim. If i make any sense.
Basically if tape is too wide inside the rim or to thick the tyre bead jags the tape and creases it pushing it around making a mess of it. Even with the 36er KH rim strip the tyre wants to push it to one side when mounting the tyre bead.
Its annoying and sealing the cutouts effectively would be a nightmare for my little cutouts in that rim so i imagine sealing large holes in KH rims would near be impossible to do well enough.
Non the less i can see and appreciate that the Dom2 rim would be great undrilled for going tubeless. The bead has great contact and large inside rim surface to seal up to.
If my spokes ever arrive ( ordered a week ago and still not send out yet i found out today) i have a Mavic EX729 rim O.D 36mm i have put a grommet in for the Stans valve to seat and my Hans SG arrived to cover it all.
Love the Broze colour writing on the SG Schwalbe’s
Unsure if the I.D of the rim is that millimeter bigger than a Velocity?. I just went with this choice as it was nearly half the price by the time i got a Blunt35 shipped… Profile and design is very similar.
If anyone successfully goes tubeless on a Cut out KH rim i would like to hear about it. Im not going to try it on those rims but converting all Muni’s to tubeless without hesitation!