Hi @ubernerd and @Killian - I tried both methods (with and without the glue) - still failed to succeed.
I wanted to ask for your opinion regarding the famous movie in which a guy sprays a gas into a tomcar wheel tire and then set it on fire.
Could it work for me too? Seriously.
This was suggested to me when I was recently trying to convert my two 36ers (one todd, one nightrider, both stealth 2 rims) to tubeless after some foss tube problems.
It was a lunchtime project in the workshop at work, so alot of people got involved. I had tubes inflated in the wheels for a week or so before hand, used straps, cable ties, a high powered compressor, no valve cores, all the tricks, plus I had a mechanic and a former tyre fitter assisting, and still couldn’t get the darn things mounted tubeless.
It ended with us all being covered in sealant, frustrated, and me vowing to buy some 29er tubes for my wheels instead.
My 24" KH muni with a Duro is set up tubeless, and was quite easy to set up, but no joy with the 36ers.
So on the topic of the gas thing, we decided that it was not the best course of action, partly as the tyre will then deflate as the gas cools (as shown when mythbusters tackled the problem), and partly as I didn’t fancy blowing up the very expensive todd.
@dmacuni, I couldn’t agree more with you.
Also, surprisingly I had some FOSS issues as well that got me into this project.
The first one was Presta valve got broken suddenly and the at the 2nd time after I had to enlarge my rim hole for the new FOSS with Schrader valve - I got puncture in the internal part of the tube (weird isn’t it?).
I then tried to fix the tube using a lighter flame as seen in FOSS youtube video (or at least it says its FOSS’s video), and bang it all got messy and useless.
I have spent a lot of energy (plus time and money of course) and tried anything that was suggested - and I really appreciate all the tips from you guys, really do - you are the greatest!
But I just got back from the gas station after trying again to inflate the 36" TA tire and mostly I am exhausted and frustrated because I really believed it can be done.
But truly, I give up - not just because of hearing what you had gone through with your 36" but also because of another thread were 36" was the subject of tubeless and ended the same way (BTW - Ben started his tubeless for the first time in that thread).
So I really think no one until now really succeeded in making a tubeless with TA 36" tire.
Unfortunately, I’m going back to FOSS but I will order some puncture stickers as well - hoping they will do OK instead of the flame fix…
BTW - do you know of any other brands than FOSS that make 36" tubes?
The tubeless for me is not preferable just because of the weight, but especially because you can have puncture free ride with a sealant inside the tire - what can’t be done IMHO with tube, because it needs to have exposure to air.
I’m sorry it’s been such a trial, though I’m not that suprised as the TA is kinda stiff and with a wire bead it would be challenging to get the beads to “stick” since they want to pull inwards.
If you can swing it, a Todd tire would be an option, but I have no idea what that would cost for shipping; it’s already an expensive tire. Maybe a Nightrider would work better, but I’m not sure about that as I have not tried to make one tubeless.
Foss tubes are not bad per se, they are just a bit quirky and fragile; I carry one as a back up. Funny thing about that “fragility”, when they were first released the were advertised as being more durable than rubber tubes
Tubeless is awesome in many ways, flat resistant, safer in a blowout/tire failure, lighter weight, and generally nice riding. Most rims and tired can be made tubeless, but the first step is to get a dry seal.
Yes, you are probably right, I guess there was not enough research done in that field of unicycle 36" tubes - not to mention the variety of vendors and types of tires.
We are kind of pioneers and that’s the cost of it.
I just have one question to make Ben - FOSS tube puncture fix didn’t go well with the flame of a lighter no matter how many times I tried - it only lasted for a few hours each time. Its also distorting the shape of the tube.
Do you have experience with FOSS patches?
Can I use any regular quick repair patches or just FOSS ones?
On the other hand why wouldn’t I use Coker tube which is the good old material of tube that I use to?
Thanks a lot Killian - I couldn’t find the movie in that thread because it’s from 2005.
I sent a message to @leadpan hoping he is still around and can help me out, although I’m not sure yet if it is indeed the answer.
But thanks a lot for the effort!
I’ll update in case I have something new.
Yes, that’s what I thought at the beginning too - but after a more in depth reading I understood that it’s not aimed for lifting the center bottom up, but actually narrowing the space of the entire “V” shaped rim.
The width of the weatherstrip is 2-1/2 inch and that’s enough for the whole rim profile - center + side walls.
Please correct me if I misunderstood this.
I also couldn’t find the thickness of the foam strip that is needed - but I guess it is standard and we don’t want to take too much space off the rim anyway.
I will have to share this drink with the rest of all of you great (not being cynical) people!
It’s because of great people like @Ben and @Killian and of course all others out there that I gain the motivation and strength to go through this - but I don’t know where my wife gets her strength to put up with me
I haven’t been able to find the weatherstrip but I understood the concept, so I stuffed one layer of polyethylene - very very thin one from the leftovers I have of parquet floor I once installed in my house.
It is a very thin layer and I thought I would need two of those but luckily I didn’t and it stuffed inside the rim without any tape or glue.
I even used a hand pump - not compressor and it is a very simple hand pump.
I was amazed how easy it was.
I only have to take off the ghetto tubeless leftovers and that’s it I guess - anybody knows how to do it? should I cut with scissors close to the rim edge or anything else is needed?
Just one thing I can say is that it was VERY VERY hard to put the tire on this - even though we’re talking about very thin layer of polyethylene.
Here are the pics below, enjoy.
And guys - I would like to thank you all really - @Ben, @Killian and all others - you are greatest!!! You helped me make a small history in the Israel unicycle community
But before it all - @Killian you are the hero of the day!!! - if it hadn’t been for your finding I wouldn’t have succeeded to make it and would probably left to ride with inner tube.
I took courage and got rid of the 26 (ghetto) inner tube and put on the Schrader valve I got from Stan’s.
I left the polyethylene inside of course but couldn’t pump it with my hand pump…
But guess what? The gas station’s pump could
Congratulations! It’s still early in the day for me here, but you go ahead and I’ll catch up later.
By the way, to those who might read this topic who perhaps aren’t native English speakers, and who have no idea of what we’re talking about, I had made a little joke about confusing the names of these two things:
A short update: today after 24 hours of the 36" tire holding air in 32 PSI perfectly the same as it was yesterday I’ve added the sealant (had to deflate and inject via the valve without its core) and took it for a short ride.
You may say it’s psychological, but I gotta tell you - it feels like feather-light in comparison with how it used to feel with the inner tube. It’s like riding a 26" wheel or at least 29" wheel.
I can’t wait to take this baby for a massive test drive.
I actually had it 24 hours with dry seal only and now after almost extra 24 hours with the sealant and all seems to be ok.
No leaks have been noticed ever since I had the dry seal and the same after I applied the sealant - no loss of air in any of the last 48 hours.
I also rode today 10 KM to work without any issues. Let’s hope to keep it that way.