Because that’s what seems to be most available to me locally. I really do prefer Schrader, but this will work just fine I think. Plus you can buy adapters that screw onto the end for a Schrader pump for around a dollar.
I have the 26" HD Trailstar version. The grip is awesome! Been using it for 1 month now and haven’t noticed any wear. But for tubeless you don’t want to change tires so better go with the Pacestar which theoretically should wear slower.
@ Sam:
Does that valve you linked fit into a Shraeder valve hole without reaming the hole?
@ Killian:
If you can wait, the Shraeder valve is better because it is more secure. If Sam’s valve suggestion fits without drilling, then it’s a plug and play for you and yo could buy a couple of those valves for the price of one Stans.
Curse you, Ben: I had to go and see, and now my 26" Oracle is going tubless.
The valve fits very well but the conical seal it comes with doesn’t. I put an oring in its place, but you could also seal it with a dab of silicon; in fact it might seal OK just against whatever tape you seal the rim with.
But I discovered another issue with the Oracle rim - there are 8 small holes in the inside of the rim just off the tire seating surface. 4 are around the valve hole, and 4 on the opposite side. I sealed these with some goo I had kicking around that’s similar to shoe goo, I now have to wait for them to dry before I finish the job.
But in short, the valves look to fit well and I expect I’ll be riding tubeless this weekend.
Sam
What about the conical seal didn’t fit right? Not tight enough, too big, etc.?
It looks like I’ll get those since it’s cheaper, I’ll just have to be patient and wait for the mail to come… I’m just not sure I have any o rings that’ll fit, but if I could just use silicone or the tape itself…
I believe the Oracle and my Drak both have the same rim (D2), if I’m using stans 25mm rim tape, I won’t have to worry about these will I?
Edit: just ordered a pair. Hope they work out :D. Getting tape, the HD, and some Stans tomorrow.
I went for a ride on the 26 guni with the HD tire tubeless. No issues on this outing. Not even any Stans burping. So far, so good.
Hahahha 
So Sam, is it the rubber seal that goes between the backing washer and the rim?
You could also use a piece from an old inner tube.
Sealing those little breather holes will work, a dab of goo will plug the holes, then tape far enough to cover them and it’ll be fine.
I’m on the fence about going tubeless on my Rabbit Hole, the cut outs are just so huge that I worry the tape will sag and leak. I’m gonna see how it goes with a tube, right now I’m using a 29 x 1.9-2.3 standard thickness tube (.9-1 mm) and it’s working fine.
Yes, and yes.
I put the Stan’s sealant in this AM and it’s looking good, I’ll try a ride this PM, if the pressure hasn’t dropped. One thing I wish I had done in hindsight is snip all the little rubber nubbins left from the tire mold that are next to the tire seat, these fold under the rim and make it a bit harder to seal the wheel.
KH 36’er w/Nightrider Tire
Forgive me if I didn’t catch a post discussing this (but I tried), but I was wondering if the kH36 Nightrider tire would allow for a tubeless set up. Just bought a stock KH36 from UDC. Cheers.
I dunno, but my Coker is next up for conversion. Anything I can do to reduce the rolling inertia of that would be a plus, and I’m too cheap to buy a new tire.
Sam
I’ve been tubeless for a while on my 36er and it’s awesome, only thing I’ve done is add a small bottle of sealant last month for routine maintenance.
The bigger the wheel, the bigger the benefit. I also like that a tubeless 36er is less likely to suffere a blow out at speed, so it’s safer in theory.
It can be a pain to get the intial seat and seal, so if it doesn’t work for you, go see your LBS and pay them to do the final step ($25 or so).
I got all my stuff today, so I’ll be ready to go just as soon as the valve stems get here. I should have enough tape and sealant (plus 2 stems) that I can convert my 36er if doing my Muni isn’t too much of a hassle.
Thanks all for the info and pointers and what-not. Much appreciated.
FWIW, the HD looks pretty awesome…
Well, I failed making the 36er tubeless. It has an older Coker ribbed tire that was a pretty loose fit, and I just couldn’t get a good seal, even with copious amounts of compressed air. Ill try again when I finally get a new tire.
Sam
How’s the oracle holding up?
Very well. Tire pressure seems to stay rock steady, and the ride certainly isn’t worse. I put its that way because it feels better - both smoother rolling and more compliant- but it’s a small difference and could be in my mind.
Sam
The 36er was hard to get sealed, I had to go to a tire shop and have a second set of hands to make it work; I used to work in a tire shop so I know how to use the equipment.
I’d get that new tire, then take it to a bike shop and let them finish the job.
This is something to consider when going tubeless, some set ups are hard to do on your own, esp rims and tires that are not designed specifically for tubeless.
My 36er was a PITA, so I will wear that tire out (Todd prototype) before swapping tires.
Think of going tubeless like putting tires on your car, it’s for the long run.
Does all of the adhesive residue from my old rim tape have to cleaned off the rim? I’ve got most of it, but after an hour of scrubbing with rubbing alcohol, I’m getting sick of it.
Thanks.
Alright, for those following along, I got my valve stem all ready to go. You need to shorten the locknut they give you, and I cut a new “o-ring” from an old piece of tube. Hope it’ll work…
I also had a few small bubbles in the tape, worked them out the best I could… Hope that’s not an issue as well. 