I disagree, I am NOT a “little” man by any means and I’ve been riding on a square taper axle/hub for over 2 years without a problem. If you’re not using it for trials, a square taper is quite capable of lasting a long time. Granted, splined hubs are stronger, but not everyone needs one
Serious about Muni!! What is that supposed to mean? At what point does the unserious rider become a serious Muni rider? Do I have to spend a certain amount of $$ to be serious. Will more money spent make me a better rider? Maybe a serious rider beats up on his equipment, doesn’t learn how to land without destroying parts. Please explain as I really would like to become a “serious Muni rider” some day.
He obviously means one who rides a lot of M-uni miles and/or has a significant amount of vertical change.
For example, putting 4000 M-uni miles on square tapers ain’t a good idea. Moreover, doing 2-3+ foot drops, technical downhill, and/or hopping up 10,000 vertical feet (in a year) ain’t a good idea for non-splined either. To put in that amount of “play/effort” one must put in “serious” saddle time (regardless of their mental attitude).
You imply that you have an issue with “$.”
He didn’t mention COST, just design.
Since you brought it, up, M-uni IS an expensive sport (if one considers time, equipment and optional travel). I’d bet the best riders spend “serious” amounts of time, effort, and even $. I’m not just cited the riders that “go big” either.
I came from windsurfing to unicycling,muni mostly.As Mr Peck quite rightly says it is a very weather dependant sport.It is also quite expensive.What these sports taught me is that,within reason,you gets what you pays for.
I have two 24 uni’s.One (my first) is a cheapo raliegh at about £80,it has square tapers and a skinny street tyre.Although fine for learning on,when I took it off road I had doubts.The tyre would skip sideways off the smallest of stones and my first drops of about 5-8 inches were disasterous.I have an engineering background and this coupled with all the breakage posts I,ve read convinced me that it was only a matter of time before something broke.Filled with fear I found the most simple muni impossible.so…
I bought a kh,it gave me the same feeling that leg armour gives most people.Confidence.There is a lot to think about whilst muni,ing.Not thinking about breakages/shin scrapes can be a boon to some people.If you are one of these people get youre wallet out
Ridingwise I did less than 80 miles on the raliegh I,ve done way more than 270 on the kh so the way I look at it the kh was cheaper.
As far as onza or kh goes,I dont think there is a lot in it.They are both really good.
All SERIOUS sport is about pushing yourself to your limits,the last thing you want is to be limited by you’re equipment.
The trouble I have here is with the two words “serious” and “unicycling” in the same sentence - OXYMORON !
It’s a unicycle for goodness sake. Muni is fantastic FUN, but not serious - same way as 5ex is FUN, but when it becomes serious it loses some fun-factor and becomes a means towards an end, i.e. procreation, or travelling from A to B.
I go to work to be serious and grown-up about life, the rest of the time I have FUN. As soon as it stops being fun, then I’ll hang up the uni’s for the last time.
On the question of which muni to consider:
If doing big drops is your idea of fun, then you will need kit up to the task, probably splined. I have ridden many hundreds of miles on rough trail with limited drops on the same square-taper hub, even the same bearings, over the last 3-years with ne’er a problem, other than a crank occasionally coming loose. If for some reason I start to find leaping towards possible unicycle component or limb breakage, then I’ll invest in stronger kit.
Horses for courses - you don’t buy a racehorse to pull a cart or a shire horse to run the Grand National.