I just got my first 36er and....WOW

Idling a 36er with any crank length is hard to do. Don’t think I can do it (not that I’m a good rider or anything). But IMO, idling is one of the most useless skills out there. Again, strictly my opinion. On my 36er, I either dismount, grab hold of a sign or something, or (most often) time my approach with traffic. Don’t remember the last time I actually stopped at a stop sign, and I’m pretty good about timing my approach to lights.

Good times though. KH street lives on all of my unis, I think you’ll ‘grow’ into it.

IMO idling isn’t really worth it for practical riding. I can’t idle well on my 36er although I can just fine on my other wheels. I don’t think that you really can get particularly efficient idling on a 36er - It just takes too much energy to reverse the direction of that heavy whee. Idling a 36er more then a few times gets very tiring. I don’t think that there’s any reason to bother with it since I can simply hop off and get a rest instead. Now that you’re getting proficient with your freemounts there’s not any reason to worry much about it.

Of course this only my 2 cents, you can do whatever you want. :stuck_out_tongue:

No I hear you, you guys make sense. I agree it is a bit hard. I’ll still try to practice it somewhat but awhile back I had the notion that idling was THE skill to have if you had to pause a bit on the road, which was a big reason why I practiced it. Even to this day I’ve yet to use it though haha…

Then awhile back I also saw a video in the video section about this guy commuting and there’s the red light and he’s bunny hopping, even though bunny hopping on a 36er also seems a bit tiring but I wouldn’t really know since I’ve yet to master it since the 36" arrived.

I definitely need to practice mounting on abnormal roads. Like slanted, big bumpy roads, crampy roads. I don’t think I’m able to free mount and ride off in a perfectly straight line always. Like, lets say just for the sake of the example, there’s two rows of cars to the left and right and I had about 2.5 - 3 ft from side of car to side of car. I probably wouldn’t have the confidence to do that. I commonly do a bit of a swerve to catch my balance on mounting, even with the 26.

At the moment I’m thinking about the T-Bar. I wonder if it can handle a drop in case of a upd. I would also think if I had to suddenly dismount, it would be a lot harder with the t bar in my way in the front. Also wondering if having it would make swerving harder due to the extra weight in the front.

We will see in a day or two.

Link to Self and for those curious (neat thread on T bars):

Thread on falling with handle bars:

Idling is a skill more useful for flatland, freestyle, and in general to teach control. Even though I idle well, I never idle on my 36 and am not interested in doing so. It’s just not worth it. It’s too much effort on a 36 especially with shorter cranks. I can almost always ride up to a street light and hold on to it instead of dismounting. If I have to dismount, it’s no big deal since I am comfortable freemounting even with shorter cranks. When I am on a long tiring ride, the last thing I want to do is expend more effort at a red light than I have to.

I think most 36 riders would agree.

As far as seat comfort, I would say give it some time. It’s a unicycle after all, it’s not going to be terribly comfortable. If you rode with the seats of yesteryear, the new ones feel like a couch. I guess it’s about perspective. If you want to feel better about the seat, pick up a unicycle from the 70s or eighties with the old Schwinn seats, or get a viscount and you’ll see how amazingly comfortable Kris Holm seats are. I think it really revolutionized unicycling and made it more accessible to those of us who aren’t into torturing ourselves.

I can’t tell if you’re saying how great it’s gotten or how truly horrific it was LOL.

If it was that painful, no wonder there aren’t many unicyclist. What were the seats cushioned with, broken glass and rusty nails? Sounds like a sadistic torture device.

Guess I’m glad I got into unicycling when I did then :stuck_out_tongue:

Well, last night I put on the T - Bar again. Since the big main point to the 36er is trying it with the t bar, something I’ve never used. I’m putting it far forward as well. I’ll bring an alan wrench along to adjust it.

I tried sitting on it and putting weight on the bar and yeah it’ll definitely take some getting use to. Will be a whole new experience. I’m really hoping it would help with the squirreling, help me go up hills better, help me handle bumps better, help me pedal faster and for longer, and the balance towards the front.

What I’m going to do is around night time, my streets are not that dark and it gets pretty quiet so I’m going to go out and plan a strategy for when the lights do hit. The light timing at night is different from the day so I can’t study it during the night. I can just study up on how to wait for red lights.

Most of the light posts are not located on the street but rather on the sidewalk so I’m going to see if I can ride near the post and stretch a leg out and then continue to ride…see if I can do that. Going to practice riding extremely slowly too, to wait for the light to change from the distance.

And definitely the bunny hop. I wonder why I’m so lazy to pick that up as oppose to the other skills.

Here’s something you may want to try out for red lights, depending on how your streets/sidewalks are configured. If there’s a curb, try riding up the the corner, ride up next to the curb, apply the brake and put your foot down on the curb. Depending on the height of the curb, you don’t really have to get off the uni to do this. Then when the light changes, it’s only “half” a freemount to get going again, because standing with your foot on the curb and the other on the pedal, you’re half-way up already. It makes mounting it seem more like your 26’r. You don’t have to worry about a pedal strike on the curb, either, unless the curb is monstrously high, because the wheel axle is so high. Even 150s clear every curb I’ve encountered, and 127s are higher yet.
Anyway, that’s a technique that I sometimes employ when riding in traffic, and it works for me.
Sounds like your riding is coming along by leaps and bounds. Congratulations! It took me a lot longer to get where you are. You will be going dozens of kilometers before you know it.

^

Hmmm good suggest, I did forget about the curb. I also see some bicyclist use the curb sometimes to stay up on their bikes. I’ll try it, it won’t always work due to different curbs but it’ll be a good combination along with the other ones.

Here’s part of the streets that I have to deal with

EDIT

Don’t underestimate the bumps on this street, this was a few years back, now it’s worse! haha…

Yes, it helps to have different strategies for various riding situations.
Although I practice freemounts regularly during my normal practice during the week, when doing long rides on the weekends I rarely freemount. During those rides, I try to use an assist wherever I can, because I like to make sure my feet and seat are exactly where I want them before setting off. When you freemount, it’s harder to adjust everything. Assisted mounts makes it just one less thing to worry about. (I’m also less likely to end up riding into a person or car in the event the freemount turns out to be somewhat less than “graceful,” as they sometimes do. Mine do, anyway.)

I have a tendency to sit on my right nut, but other than that my 36er freemounts are pretty consistent and smooth now. Once I changed to 150mm cranks (up from 125mm) it made a world of difference for my freemounting. Static mount, jump mount, rolling mount, rolling jump. They all got better. I usually feel less comfortable when mounting holding onto something, as opposed to free mounting.

I just came back from a 3-4 hour practice session. I cannot believe how time flies with the 36er. With my 26, it didn’t go by nearly that fast.

I forgot to try the curb thing…totally forgot. I’ll do it next time.

I tried the t bar today. Wow, it’s definitely weird. I had a lot of issues turning. So far I’m able to go down a very slightly slanted road, I didn’t have too much issue with that. Going up it again was a bit hard holding the t bar. In the end of the practice I tried going in the street, can’t really turn very well. It’s definitely hard.

How long did it take you guys to learn how to use the T bar?
Did you still have to use your arms to do turns and swerving?

For me, the trick was to push on the bar but also not forget to push down on the seat. With that steady, I was going pretty darn fast. I can’t wait till my cycle computer comes, I bought a cateye urban wireless.

Oh yeah, one big thing about the T bar is that it makes mounting harder…it would be right up against my chest poking me. Gotta figure that out somehow. I did drop the unicycle once. The T bar is okay. I’ve nearly dropped it a dozen times but I’m pretty quick in catching it. I’m surprise that I didn’t really get caught in the T bar much. It’s happened, but not much. It took me 10 tries or so to mount it with the T bar on.

Riding with a t bar is almost like riding with no hands. Boy that’s scary. I almost lost balanced and hit a park car while practicing on the sidewalk (barely anyone and its a big sidewalk)

Yeah that happened to me a few times. It is a cringe worthy moment, cause in the back of my mind I’m thinking “if I had just sat down a bit harder…” :stuck_out_tongue:

Wow, you must be achieving some incredible velocities to experience relativistic effects, but your observation is certainly in line with the greater speed of the 36er over the 26er. :stuck_out_tongue: (Look up the “twin paradox.”)

Yeah, you’ll find a lot of 36er fans here. After getting it I dropped the 29er for road riding like a hot potato. Sometimes I entertain the thought of gearing up, but then I remember I have a bike for that kind of thing.

I rarely feel like I am just spinning on it, and I wouldn’t want to go much faster than I already go, and spend more money than I already have on unicycling.

Lots of great posts on this thread :slight_smile:
I’ve been following with interest as I’m not doing too well on my 36’’ :frowning: but this thread has made me have a rethink and maybe have another go. I’m off out to Leicester at the weekend and I know a quiet area with a little slope…so I may just have another go at freemounting. :roll_eyes:
Thanks for giving me the incentive Nate128 :slight_smile: and all you guys who’ve posted as well.
Great forum isn’t it :smiley:

What are you finding challenging? Freemounting? What size cranks are you on? What is your experience with smaller wheels? Mostly road riding, muni? Any freestyle?

A little slope does help in freemounting (with every uni but especially with the 36") and i prefer this method myself when i’ve been riding the smaller ones for some time and get back to TheWheel.
When mounting on a slope you can concentrate on getting up there, the inital forward momentum to ride is provided by the slope, so after being confident about the “getting up”-part you only have to think of the “moving forward and ride”-part when mounting on even ground.

Greetings

Byc

I’d like to give you some of my thoughts if I may. Since it’s from my perspective during the learning period of doing that.

A few important things I learned for the free mount is to fall well. I made it my objective at first to just jump over the seat and land on the other side and have my hand ready to quickly catch the seat. Once you have that, I say you can practice to your hearts content. Since letting your unicycle fall is, in a sense, letting yourself fall. At least to me, I feel like the unicycle is part of me so I try my best to catch it and keep it from harm.

Okay, now lets say you have issues jumping over the unicycle. I approached this by first standing in a grassy area. Then you’re not worried about the fall as much. This is your “building your jump confidence” moment. You just do whatever it takes to jump over your unicycle and land on the other side. After you land it a few times, you can keep going. You can continue to do this till you’re starting to think “hey, this is nothing, piece of cake, I want more of a challenge”. I think learning has to do a lot with mind tricks and some practice to back it up of course.

So once you get to that. In my opinion, I would suggest you practice on a flat area instead of a slope. Sure the slope helps you by giving you that extra roll. But I think that it also distracts you because when you roll and the unicycle moves, it’s not all on you, it’s also partially due to something not in your own power. I think you should learn with full control of your unicycle and only you should have that control, not give it to anything else. It’ll give you concentration and confidence in your own movement.

Once I found a nice flat area like a parking lot with few or no cars, I start doing mounts. But then I notice I tend to jump over the unicycle too much. I was starting to get frustrated. Practiced a bunch more, barely landing it. The confidence that you learn in the grass area transfers here. Due to that, I found that sure the unicycle was difficult to mount due to the massive height and because we’re short which doesn’t exactly help. BUT, confidence and skill makes up for it. With that confidence, I found myself much more committed to hop over the unicycle and that makes a world of difference. Confidence that I’m able to catch the unicycle and confidence that I was able to jump over the unicycle before, it makes your hop stronger.

Now, before I continued making more failed mounts, I take a good long breath and concentrate. I think one of the biggest issue with practicing is that sometimes after failing so many times, we go into a “eh whatever I’m just doing it because I’m doing it” or “I wonder what’s going on in the house” moment. At that point it’s just practicing just to say you’ve practice and that’s not good. It’s not completely worthless, but it shouldn’t be what you want.

So think hard to yourself and plan it out. If you usually fall to the right, see which way you originally point your unicycle and move it a bit in either direction and see if that changes it. Maybe add a little swerve. Just have it planned out. Try not to repeat a mistake.

Awhile back someone also pointed out that after a good day’s practice, sleeping it off and letting your mind and body soak it in is a great idea. That’s another thing I also learned, not to push myself too hard and sometimes, resting your mind and body is as good as practicing all day long.

And in the end, pure concentration and relentless effort usually does the trick. You just gotta have fun too. Awhile back I thought how it would be cool to be able to master unicycling. But then I was also afraid, unicycling is fun because of the new things to learn, but then again ppl would say there’s always something else to learn, but I think that’s for the extreme end of the sport which big technical trails and taking big risks and so forth. Not all of us are interested in that. So take this opportunity to enjoy it because there’s still something interesting to learn.

Thanks for the input guys. :slight_smile:
kahunacohen I’m okay freemounting my 20’’, 24’’ and 26’’, I sometimes struggle with my 29’’ though. I ride mainly on paths and sometimes go down hills/slopes. Nope I don’t do freestyle (yet) as I can only ride forwards.
It’s the freemounting I find challenging… I’ve got 125/150 cranks. Byc and Nate128 I never thought of the forward momentum provided by the slope. Because I’m so short I use the slope as a means of getting on the uni. I seem to lack the skills to jump high enough to get on. I do a static mount. Please don’t suggest I take a run at my uni and do a rolling mount ( is that the right term? ) I’ve seen people do that in real life and I would end tangled up on the floor spitting my out teeth. Too scary :astonished:
Using a slope gives me a good 3’ advantage over a flat surface, similar to going off a kerb I guess. ( I’ve got an idea I’m working on which involves a foam cube about 4’ x 4’ x 4’ tied onto some string which I can use as a choc to mount the uni and then as I move off I can retrieve it, without it getting tangled in my cranks.)
Once I’m on my unicycle I’m fine and I’m a dab hand at coming off okay even if it is over the front. I grab the seat no probs. So no worries about coming off but as I’m cycling along I’m thinking that if I do come off and there’s no slope , there is no way I’m gonna get back on again.:frowning:
I once pushed my 36’’ for 2.5 miles looking for a slope, but there was none to be had. I was a nice day though with some lovely scenery.

I lack that ‘spring’ in my step, I’m gonna have to work on that.

That’s why you just gotta learn with no slope, so you’re not dependant on it.

Haha :stuck_out_tongue:

I have that same thought about the jumping and suicide mount. I can probably land it on a good day but on a bad day…

What about this type, I hear ppl that have mounting issue use this to great success.

EDIT

I rewatched your video on the first page and it seems like you were getting it pretty well? You got over the top many times.

Edit again:

I notice you brought up crank sizes. In my opinion, 150mm are easier to push forward to start the roll but the 127s don’t move as readily and give you a bit longer moment when you’re over the wheel to plan your next movement.

Hi Alucard,

Static mounting a 36" is not so easy. I would suggest the wheel grab mount (shown by Nate128) or a rolling mount.

The rolling mount is really just a static mount that you step into. Position yourself for a static mount with one foot on the pedal. Then take one step back–that is your starting position. The added step gives you just a bit more oomph for the mount.

Show us videos! We will an enjoy your struggles and progress.

Scott

PS: Teeth are overrated.

I’ve never understood how tire grabbing mounts help. It seems like it just trains you to put weight further forward when mounting, and the actual grabbing of tire doesn’t do anything. Am I incorrect?