how tight should crankbolts be???

I just rotated my cranks (moments) 90 degrees to help with wheel and tire wear but now i’m not sure how tight the crankbolts should be

btw Kris/or udc i would be really nice to Maintenance things like
-whether or not to grease splines
-how tight bolts should be
-how to tell if the crank inserts loose
just an idea

thanks -colin


Wasnt that easy.

Now, I sugest you tighten the bolts as much as you can.

Yes, you should grease your splines. I think a good copper grease will be best.

Also, if you’re going to correct someone, make sure you do it properly.

I’m french and I dont make half the mistakes he makes.

lulz hesa jsut in a huri:)

Unless your wrench is longer than 6", then I would tighten them until the hex wrench starts twisting. If you have a torque wrench then maybe 40 foot-pounds

It’s the internet i really don’t care about caps and punctuation here, sorry if you “need” them to be able read my post. It took me 5 long hard year to learn to read and write. I’m hard core dyslexic(you should read up on it before you go and post about how it’s " not real") , so a can’t spell and it’s very hard for me to remember to do all that stuff. If i were to make ever post perfect i would be puting in 30-45 per post in editing. i don’t mind if you correct some of my post just don’t be and ass about it, the insulating comments are not really needed.

now as for your post

" Now, I sugest you tighten the bolts as much as you can."
i think i have heard of people over tighten, so i’m not sure as tight as i can is a good idea

Thank you for the help and try to get some respect to dyslexic people

I recently broke a rollo disc for trying to tighten as much as I could. If you don’t have a torque wrench, its kind of hard to describe how much you should be tightening them. On a splined set up, it isn’t all that important that they be super tight. Just make it snug and if you’re heaving and puffing and hurting your hands… you’re likely overdoing it.

you no in the future you can just deflate the tire then rotate it then pump it up,just i see alota people doing the hard way and it doesnt make sense.

I tryed to deflate it and turn but with my muni tire it was really hard and would not spin
but also it’s better for your wheel as you do not put all the stress In one spot.

Im not pokin fun at you man, Im only pointing out.

ok, but in the future you made want to not make remarks like
“Wasnt that easy.”
“I’m french and I don’t make half the mistakes he makes.”
because to me at lease they sound rude and insulting

Well… sorry :stuck_out_tongue:

This thread belongs in Rec.Sport.Unicycling, even though many such threads already exist.

sorry i did’t really know were to put it

i had searched around but could not find and real technical answer

The most technical answer would be in foot pounds, but again–

From now on, my standard answer:
All the bolts should be as tight as a rope. The tire should be as hard as a rope. Everything should be as strong as a rope, and as long as a rope.

Or maybe I should say: Bolts just tight enough that they don’t come loose, tire at the psi that works, parts strong enough they don’t cause problems through failure.

the requirements for splined and square tapered setups are different. For square tapers 40 ft. lb is good, this much shouldn’t be required for splined setups.

Yup, tight as a rope :slight_smile:

essentialy yes. i think people do more damage by overtightening, if they don’t move when riding they’re tight enough