I didn’t need new cranks
I just tightened the pedal more. 
unicorn
Are you left handed, or off footed, sort of? 
You are messing with my comprehensive theory of pedal problems!
Blue loctite saves money
It costs 3$/tube and has no down side. On cheaper uni’s with softer metal I say use it, by the time you feel the flex, the damage is done.
In response to Fleel the Light
No, I am not left handed. The Bontrager pedals were on my Onza before hand and I did not have a problem with the right pedal coming loose. Also before I had the Bontrager pedals on I had Welgos for about 8 months with no problems. It could just be an issue where the insert in my particular KH crank is on the larger side of tolerance and the pedal threads on my particular right pedal are on the smaller side of the tolerance. Keep in mind that I do a lot of Jumping and backward riding. That is a dedly combination for pedals.
Unicorn
That is correct. The Loctite will act as a lubricant while it is wet. Once it is dry it will continue to protect the threads from contamination. If you have to remove the pedal you’ll need to clean off the dried Loctite and reapply fresh Loctite.
hmm
does it mean the crank/pedal is being stripped when there are sharp shards forming around the hole where the pedal meets the crank
when i replaced the peds, i thought it best to file these down, but they’re back again
yeah, I have a bunch of those shards around the stripped pedal and a few are starting to form around my good tight pedal. The LBS said they were signs of the stripping.
It can also be a sign of the shoulder around the pedal threads eating into the metal of the crank. With many cranks being aluminum and softer than the pedal spindle, it is quite possible for the pedal to eat into the crank that way. You’ll see a worn area and indented area around the pedal threads on the crank.
That’s not the same as signs of stripping the actual threads. So you’ll want to figure out which it is.
One of the reasons for using grease on the threads is so the threads don’t grind and wear down (or get shaved off) as the pedal is tightened down nice and tight. If you’re not using enough grease on the threads you may find little shavings from the threads that have been worn or shaved.
well the new cranks are on (have been for some time) and are loctited. The pedals aren’t giving me much trouble but there’s been a ton of general creaking, especially when idling or switching between riding and hopping. I’ve been tightening up the bolts attaching the cranks to the hub every 15-20 minutes which seems to keep the creaking to a minimum. Some of it sounds like it could be coming from the spokes, but since the tightening is helping I’m assuming it’s mostly the cranks themselves. In any case I’ve come to the conclusion that I can’t really go much farther on my Torker CX and the time has come to get a new uni.
I’m planning on getting the 20’’ KH trials uni from AE bikes since I should be able to afford one by the time they get them back in stock, but wanted to get some input. I’m not very good at trails at the moment, mostly because unicycle failure has kept me from practicing alot recently, but I think that’s the direction I want to go in. Also, the seatpost on the KH is 300 mm and I’m 6’ 4’’. Will that be an issue?? I know the CX I have now has a 400mm seat post although I ride it pretty low. Anyway, are there other unicycles more appropriate for me that I should be looking at?