I’m pondering which of the two brake options here would be the best/sufficient for a G29/G36er?
I can of course just go with the slightly pricier V4 but I wanted to stop and check with myself in case the E4 might in fact be a better option.
I’ve seen both used on unicycles, and wondered if these was much in it or if someone has tried both and preferred one over the other.
And yes: my pile of parts in growing for the magical delivery forthcoming from Switzerland 
Thanks 
What about Tech4 brakes? 
Mmm and clipless while we’re at it 
I looked and the lever looked too big and just overkill for little old me!
I’ve heard about that but never actually saw it. A friend of mine got one, I’ll see it in a few days and maybe give it a try!
Maybe you can change it with a Tech3 lever? Not sure about the compatibility.
Regarding Tech3 brakes: @toutestbon may give you some insights. I think he tested both E4 and V4.
I’d be tempted by the Tech4 and E4 combination. That said I can see why you are considering the V4 for a G36, but all things considered it is not a DH mountain bike you are putting it on…
I also thought the new Tech4 levers looked a bit long. I have Tech3 on two bikes and two unicycles and really like them (and they do look incredibly nice) – they don’t get heavy use on my unicycles to be fair though. On the bike I tend to use them one-fingered.
I saw the Tech4 levers on Hope’s stand at the DH World Cup at Fort William this year, they were not long out (and the Hope guy said you could actually buy them without waiting months now). I don’t think they look so long ‘in the flesh’ and they are supposed to be smoother, so a little extra length on the lever combined with smoother action might give you better feathering on your unicycle. That and I imagine Hope have stopped making the Tech3 now in favour of the Tech4, would perhaps make me go with the Tech4.
Another comment on reflection – I have X2 brakes on one of the bikes and E4 on the other. The X2 was because you can get them flat-mount, which is what I needed. To be fair they have adequate performance, but they are not as good as the 4-pot E4, albeit on smaller rotors too. So maybe what I’m saying is “you can’t have too much brake”… so maybe just get the V4 (and don’t pull on them too hard… ;o) You’re spending a fortune on that unicycle so what’s a little more 
Thanks so much DrD.
I am mainly curious if one feels nicer to ride with than another. All for a smooth and non-bite-y brake feel, especially for a geared wheel.
And I don’t want to just opt for the most expensive Hope brake for the sake of it.
Like you say it isn’t a DH mountain bike, os the E4s could easily be just perfect.
But this is a £££ build season so I may as well consider each component with some relish (
)
It isn’t a 2-brake DH mountain bike, it is a 1-wheel/1-brake machine that can go over 30 kmph (if you dare). So you need a powerful brake. My Shimano SLX 7120 even sometimes looks a bit weak on its G36. 
There is always disk size and pad compound to play around with, especially pad compound will likely have a much bigger impact than the difference in leverage ratio between a V4 or E4.
I personally was slightly disappointed with the power my e4 delivered on my 27.5". I had a bunch of random issues however (which aren’t all the brakes fault), so it’s not a fully fair test I guess, but in hindsight I was wondering if I should have just gone for the V4. (but I can still go up to bigger disks, so I’m not out of options yet).
You technically can, if it is impossible to get the pads up to temperature, they will not bed in and get full power. But unless you go 220mm disks on a 20" unicycle, that is probably a non issue.
What clipless pedals are you planning on? I agree, climbing and all around
muni is so much more controlled.
Ah that’s my bad attempt at an “in joke” as before Maxence had often recommended clipless - I know he’s a fan, but I won’t be touching that for a good while yet (if ever!)
You remind me some discussion I had with a mountain biker 10 days ago. He was seriously asking me whether clipless were mandatory for mountain unicycling. That’s the first time I get such a question, as people usually tell me it sounds really dangerous. That time, this guy had been perspicacious 
So, @mindbalance, as mountain bikers suggest clipless are mandatory, you should really give it a try 
I don’t get the religion around clipless vs non-clipless (double negative bah). If you want to use pedal A, great, do so! If you want to use pedal B, great, do so! Why bother proselytising?
Not proselytising, it was a question of interest. Not a religion for me either, just more efficient use of my energy during hard climbs and rough descents. My feet tend to stay where I need them, on my pedals. As you yourself stated “use pedal A use pedal B great” so why complain about my pedal choice?
Slightly off topic, but has clipless on one side and flat on the other been tried? This way at least one foot is free in a upd but the other can pull up when needed. May unevenly stress legs though but I’m no doctor.
You’re right, I made more of the situation than was warranted. My apologies.
Thank you but not necessary, I used you to bring out your point. There are individuals who will harass us over their opinion because they have discovered something that works for them and feel they know best, or to tell us how to ride a uni even if they can’t. But we are of a group that has our own path.
Unigoof, I have never tried only one side, but in my experience with clipless, I started with shimano platform clipless (mountain) and ended up liking the small road clipless better. Yes I have “ate it” a couple of times but usually (90+%) of the time they just pop out. less than 5-10 degree of twist and your separated. They are only made to hold pulling up and pushing down, anything else and the shoe just is out. Sometimes for no apparent reason. You are not trapped. But please do not try them because me being an older guy I need this edge when I ride with the younger stronger crowd.
OK, just today this happened, (bad), but I did not UPD because it felt like my cleat came out but I could not find the sweet spot to get it back in the pedal cause it was still in the pedal. but I still one footed it.
Awesome that you one footed it! That’s crazy though, if I hadn’t checked on all my pedals two days ago this would make me go and see if anything was showing signs of failure. Was there perhaps something working it’s way loose or was this an out of the blue sort of thing? I don’t have any cranks with inserts but I also haven’t read anything about them failing like that.
