Welcome to the forum! Welcome to the wonderful world of unicycling!
The most common recommendation for new riders is to look in your local classified ads for a used 20" learner model. That’s the most common size, and the size most commonly used for learning. After you get the basics, and you’ve had a chance to look at all the various unicycle disciplines, you can decide which style(s) you like, and purchase a new, high quality uni that suits your riding goals.
Cheers! And good luck/good riding!
ALDI Unicycles are adequate for learning eventually stuff will start to break on it and you will need to upgrade.
If you want to get an aldi one now you can buy it on gumtree they are all over the place/ Anything that looks like the two below is generally an ALDI unicycle (Crane Brand) and you shouldn’t pay more than $50 as I think that is what they are new.
These two are better quality and more likely to last but you can also buy the aldi and upgrade it later.
Main thing to remember with learning to ride is that it feels impossible at first but it gets very doable, ask for help or search on these forums (Or Unicycle Chat on facebook) for tips in learning to ride.
Also there are a bunch of riders in Sunshine coast and the Australia unicycle nationals are in Canberra this year On the October long weekend, you don’t have to be an elite rider to take part, you will gain a lot of skills and tips from other riders and learn a lot.
The Crane brand has an 80 kg weight limit marked on them.
Gumtree is definitely the place to look. Last week a 19 inch KH (Moment hub) went for $75 on there. That was crazy cheap but good unis come up occasionally for not much more than the junk. I bought my Qu-Ax Profi for $50 and an Impact Athmos for $75.
I should take that into account. Unfortunately I won’t be able to fix anything like that in my luggage, so I would have to add another suitcase at least. I wish I had more time to plan everything out ahead and learn more.
You should be able to call a unicycle as “sports equipment” for luggage purposes for aircraft. Also in some places you can buy big bags to put a unicycle in. You might be able to get them from $2 type stores or stores run by Chinese people or from a luggage store.
There are plenty of good unicycle options in Australia. Having more to choose from is no benefit for someone without any experience to know what to look for. There are plenty of unicycles available on Gumtree for very little money. Any excess baggage charges could easily exceed the value of the uni.
There is no point suggesting a novice searching out and bringing back a uni from overseas, especially when we don’t even know where they are visiting.
Best get a cheapy to get started and see if you even like unicycling. Then decide what kind of unicycle style you like before buying another. (Or deciding you like all styles and ending up with a big collection.)
Waiting until I get back would certainly be easier. I think the excess baggage would be at least $200, and it’s up to the airline at the time to decide if they have enough room, so if they refuse, I would be stuck with a spare unicycle at the airport. Maybe during a future trip I should consider it if they have something far better to upgrade to.
The post from @pinoclean is a good one. Aldi unicycles are like a dime a dozen, easy and cheap to buy either new or secondhand. The problem with them is often the hub connector breaks at the crank or the crank continually loosens after a long time of use, the cotterless interface is prone to wear and tear. The solo ones linked by @pinoclean appear to have ISIS connectors and this should not have the same problem. I assume the torker has the same (can’t tell for sure by the photo though). I would recommend getting in touch with those sellers.
Nothing wrong with cotterless cranks for a learner or even for light duty use by an experienced rider.
The crank interface on Solo looks nice but it is actually cotterless. They are not bad for their price but only the relatively rare Solo XTR model has ISIS. Most people who know enough to want ISIS are looking for something better.
The Torker in that ad is a CX model which is very ordinary. The Torker LX model is much better, having a CrMo frame. Still has cotterless cranks and a single wall (but quite strong with 48 spokes, at least on the 24 inch) rim. The original cranks are not particularly strong. Torker saddles are notoriously bad. I have heard them described as “an upholstered brick”.
My Torker LX is a 24 inch. I changed the saddle to a Nimbus gel (bought cheap but as new on eBay from an upgrading rider), Nimbus Venture cranks and seat post. I use it as a “standard uni” for track racing and on the road. Has held up fine.
The only Torker with ISIS is the DX model but it is a very heavy unicycle so not at all popular.
Qu-Ax is a good brand, even their low end models like the Luxus.
Koxx was good but gone out of business. Their crank interface was not quite on spec until just before they folded.
Impact also good with a variety of models right up to top level.
Can’t go far wrong with a Kris Holm which is a premium brand but deals like the $75 one I mentioned are incredibly rare. Just avoid the really old ones prior to about 2007. The obsolete Onza hub best avoided.
Check out municycle.com.au which has a good range that will give you a feel for what various levels of quality cost new.
Both of the ones I linked are still square taper however they sill last quite well, I know people who have ridden square taper unicycles for quite a few years… but they werent aldi’s
Ive seen aldis that have had the flanges separate from the centre of the hub which SHOULD be a very strong weld. However they were good riders who broke them
If you are only learning you can live with an aldi for a good 8 months or more at a guess, and they are super cheap so good to learn on before you decide to spend some decent $$$ on a top notch unicycle.
OneTrackMind is right.
I ride an Indi Australia 20” which I bought for under $50 on gumtree. It’s a solid cycle. The brand was sold in bike shops. There are often good unicycles going for cheap prices. I believe I’m at the upper edge of learning the skill of unicycling. I just don’t practice. Bouncing around a netball court, with a cheap unicycle, is fine for me. Once I have good control I’ll buy something better. I also own a 5 footer, which was a steal on gumtree.
Currently I think I’ll go with gumtree when I am back and probably start with something on the cheaper side. While I know the information I’m receiving is extremely valuable, right now a lot of it is going over my head, so I think I need to read over it again once I have learned a bit more, either through studying or experience or both. Plus that way I can find out if it’s something I’m decent at with practice, and more importantly, if I enjoy doing it or not.
I dunno, when learning you can trash a unicycle pretty quickly. I started on the $50 Aldi one and it only lasted two months before it was unridable. It taught me basic riding and freemounting though, so I think it was worth it.
I think we need to redefine the meaning of “worth it”. I understand your point; you got your $50 out of it. It is a shame, however, that there exist so many “throw away” items in our consumer culture. How much more expense does it take to produce a unicycle that doesn’t fall apart after two months? How many more resources does it take? How much more energy does it take to produce better parts? This is not a rhetorical question; hardened aluminum obviously takes a lot of energy to heat to a high temperature, for example.
In the realm of musical instruments, there are two kinds of keywork. One is made from forged metal blanks which are then milled into keys/buttons. The other comes from “pot metal”. A liquid metal is poured into a mold. These instruments start out all right but are trashed within a few years. Repairmen don’t like working on them. Using a torch on the keywork makes it melt. I don’t know if that’s similar to the way cheap unicycles are made.
Bottom line: For a more utilitarian version of “worth it”, get a slightly nicer unicycle, one that won’t fall apart, then give it to a beginner when you’re done with it.