How wide is Pete’s rim? My Schlumpf with Big Apple 2.35" came with a quite narrow rim. It carries the number “19” on it, and from the looks of it, that might be the inside width of the rim. The BA was mounted already so I haven’t measured rim width.
Klaas Bil (posting from the forum, my news server seems broken)
kit (MrBoogiejuice) has already put my name down, i’ve had my schlumpf since BUC last year, i sent it back a few weeks ago to get the new frame and hub upgrade, the Big apple tyre, shorter cranks and the KH rim. my hub arigenaly No.22 i’m interested to see what it’s chainged to. it should all be arriving in the next few day! 
Insurance
has anyone got there schlumpf insured? if so, who did you get your insurance from? do you think it’s worth will? how much did it cost? what sort of insurance have you got? one other quick question, has anyone clocked what there top speed is? what size cranks did you have? my schlumpf’s being sent back to me today! i’m planing on going to the velodrome in Manchester with MrBoogiejuice in the next few week, hoping to brake the sound barrier.
Mine is with Roger waiting spokes too, and will have a similar setup, KH rim, new frame+hub. It’s going to have some kind of muni tyre on it, can’t remember exactly which one. 125 cranks. I seem to remember I specced a v-brake too. Probably atomlab aircorp pedals, as those aren’t on anything right now. I think Roger has one of his own, with the same build, also waiting for spokes.
If I get it by Thursday or early Friday morning, I may be racing on it this weekend at Strathpuffer 24 hours. Roger tells me they’re fantastic for really fast descents and I know a 29er is fantastic for climbing, which will be pretty important (326m climbing and 326m descent per 11k lap = 1 in 16 mean gradient ouch).
Joe
The two Joes: - you guys are mad, mad heroes !
36" schlumpf
Roger’s got the 36" schlumpf, but doesn’t think he’s going to be able to ride it, as it’s a bit wider than a normal coker he’s not quite tall enough. i’m about the same hight as Roger, so i don’t think i’m going to be able to ride one ether unfortunately. 
i’m sure roger will work something out though. he’s also got to get the spokes specially made as they need to be 14G instead of 12G like a normal coker.
arrivel of my new schlumpf
it’s arrived! it’s amazing! the 152 crank are perfect! i’ve just be for a quick ride, i went to change gear and did it first time without hardly noticing! the only way i could tell was i that i started going a lot faster 
i’m not sure if i got any free wheel, if i did it wasn’t much! i suppose the crank length depends on the size of your feet, i’ve got about size 8 and the 152 are just the right length for my heal to hit the button! i’ll put some pics up latter, right now i’ve got to ride!!!
Mine is here today.
Before I went out and rode it in the mud it looked like the picture below.
It’s now rather muddy.
The gears work fantastically, shifting up while stillstanding or riding slowly is easy, down I can’t do yet, due to the way I usually stillstand (right foot forward). I can’t shift while going fast yet. When I shift when riding it sometimes takes a couple of wheel turns to notice (if it isn’t kicked hard enough I think) and then does the shift, which is a bit disconcerting. When it shifts it freewheels for a very short time, no problems there. Doing this in mud was funny though, it slid for the duration of the freewheel, normally there’s just a slight ooh I’m flying feeling, and then the high gear kicks in.
It rides quite fast, and really nice, a noticeable bit of backlash, but once you’re used to it it doesn’t make much difference. Seems to handle fine and dandy offroad and it’s nice being in a higher gear when blasting through mud, although I’d suggest not trying the brake for the first time whilst riding in high gear as fast as you can, as a flying dismount is in your future if you do. I’ve got long cranks (150s) on it ready for Scotland, and some 125s to put on later. It’s got a KH rim, Kenda something tyre, DMR pedals, KH fusion seat + rail adapter, KH seatpost.
It’s nice that everything fits the same allen key and stuff like that, in that way it’s very well thought out, and it looks just sooo nice.
The only not nice thing is the frame, whoever had the idea of making a frame 3 inches taller than the Nimbus II frame and equally wide was not someone with big leg muscles, or narrow or short legs. It has a tendency to knock legs on mounting, even with the rail adapter shifted right forwards and cranks with q-factor, and is only just out of the way when riding, if you move your legs backwards you can feel it. It must be odd for people shorter than me (I’m 5ft 10in). Also, the way the post clamps in is odd too, you need to undo all the eight allen key bolts to move the post up or down, and there’s almost no adjustability unless you’re willing to move the bottom frame brace up a bit, which presumably isn’t a good thing to do. It doesn’t seem very well thought out for a frame that’s costing something like £200 / $300 plus an extra £40 for the clamp on brake mounts.
There’s some more pictures in my gallery
Joe
That looks nice Joe. Good luck for the weekend by the way… I’ll be at a nice warm dry indoor unimeet 
Hey Joe,
Where you going with that guni in your hand?
I’m going up to Scotland to win a race…
Can’t think of any more… somebody else can finish it
Rob
Oh no! I have unicycle envy!
Must not buy another unicycle
Must not buy another unicycle
Must not buy another unicycle
That looks awesome Joe. Have a great weekend!
Paul
Hello. I have hub #90 in a 28" wheel.
It’s a big problem for me. My legs hit the frame on every downstroke. I asked Florian Schlumpf for advice and he told me to cut down the frame. Here are his directions, verbatim:
Replace “sawmill” with “whatever appropriate saw you have laying around” and it sounds pretty easy.
Florian says “You should have a minimal distance between the two horizontal levers of the frame of about 15mm (about the width of one piece). That’s enough.”