Got a Wheel... Now I Need a Seat

Unicycles and Equipment
1
So, I got a new 20" unicycle.

20_1
20_13264×2448 1.22 MB

20_3
20_33264×2448 982 KB

20_4
20_43264×2448 815 KB

20_2
20_23264×2448 1.09 MB

20_9
20_93264×2448 1000 KB

20_8
20_83264×2448 1020 KB

20_6
20_63264×2448 1.1 MB

20_5
20_53264×2448 1.14 MB

Okay, well, it’s not new. It was bought at an auction about 10 years ago and given to me by a friend who was going to take it to the dump tomorrow until I heard and told them I was running a rescue for unicycles :eyes:

The wheel, apparently, is pretty good. I looked up Alex Rims DX32, and it seems to be at least a decent, reliable thing (though apparently a tad heavy). The tire, I couldn’t find much about (Luna tires is now Kenda?? It has Luna on it but not really any other distinguishing marks), but it’s 2-ply and is marked for 340 pounds at 40PSI, as noted on the tire itself. 36 spokes, yada yada. I don’t know enough about wheels to really pass a judgement on how good it is at the moment. Of course, I’ll take it into a bike shop and have them tune it up.

The saddle is trashed (rubber and only rubber, by the way, no bumpers or anything, which explains why it was trashed in the first place), so that’s being tossed unless anyone wants a twisted, weird, and super uncomfortable saddle for free. I’m not sure if I’m going to replace it, or just get used to switching out either the saddle on my Miyata or Club when I want to use the 20". I think (?) that I could use the current seatpost with a new saddle, but I might need a longer one (edit: the seatposts on both the Flamingo and the Club are too large for the 20" frame, being 25.4mm instead of the required 22.2).
The frame itself has no marks on it (nor does the hub), so I may switch it out for something like a Nimbus II 20" frame, however I wouldn’t do this unless possibly riding with a really weak frame would be bad for the safety of me and the rest of the uni.
The clamp is… I’m not sure what it is, I’ve never seen anything like it before, but it doesn’t work so I’ll switch it for something from ol’ UDC.
Doesn’t really matter to me right now, but anyone know anything about the pedals? Plastic, kinda basic, from Sunshine Pedals. I guess they’re strong enough for riding and some minor hopping, so I’m not too concerned :slight_smile:

So, any advice, concerns, things I need to look at before failing some freestyle? Or even, what saddle should I get? I was looking at the Nimbus Freestyle…
Thanks! :slight_smile:

2

A picture tells a thousand words…
No idea what hub you have, bearing size, diameter of the frame for the seat post etc…

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Thanks :slight_smile: I updated the pictures, let me know if any additional ones would help!
I don’t know what the hub is (being unmarked), added the diameter of the frame (22.2mm), and how do you measure bearing size without taking the wheel off the frame (is measuring without disassembling possible?). I don’t know much about wheels :wink:

4

Ahhh. I can see the pics now (they were collapsed). I believe you won’t be able to use a Nimbus II frame with that as it looks like what you have is a cotterless interface and a Nimbus II frame won’t be compatible. I think, just get yourself a new 22.2mm seatpost, and get yourself a saddle you like (I like KH Fusion Freeride the most). If you need to get a seatpost clamp, make sure it’s the right diameter.
And then ride it.

5

There is a risk the hub will break with hopping, (it looks like a very low end hub), so don’t do too much hopping on it.

6

That looks pretty similar to my Avenir 20" unicycle, same rim and tire, frame looks the same. Mine also had a short seatpost, just like yours (I think it was sold as a kid’s muni). Mine did have a decent saddle and a double bolt seatpost clamp.

I’m still using it, but the original hub was terrible - it literally only lasted a couple of days before I bent it. So I rebuilt the wheel with UDC’s cromoly square taper hub, and it’s still going strong, probably six years later.

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Thanks for the help to both of you!
So, in theory, if I wanted to get it up and running well, I’d need a new seatpost, saddle, and hub? I’m just looking at the cost of things… I’m not sure if I want to put over a hundred US dollars into it, considering that my primary interest is distance riding and so I had planned to make my next upgrade a 36er. I guess it’s something to consider. I just wanted to make sure that if I spent the money I’d actually have a good uni that would last. At some point, if there are weak parts, it might just be more cost effective to buy a new, decent 20" instead of spending money on one that’s going to break.
One other concern I had is that the frame is really small. When I tried to move the seat as high as it would go, it was still at a height at which I didn’t feel comfortable doing anything (standing up, I had to bend over to hold the seat). That is in part the seatpost, of course, but does it look like an unusually small frame, or am I just unacquainted with 20 inchers?

I looked up an Avenir 20":
https://www.amazon.ca/Avenir-20-Inch-Wheel-Deluxe-Unicycle/dp/B00165Q9F8
…Deluxe Unicycle? :smile:
Anyways, the frame, rim, tire, all are different. I assume I’m looking at the wrong thing. Could you send a link? Thanks!

Edit: Also, is there any risk with changing the wheel on to the frame of my 26"? I assume that wouldn’t damage anything?

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Hi, I suggest you don’t change the hub, it’s too much work, unless you want to learn to lace a wheel. Also, to make it a uni with ISIS interface you’d also need to use a different frame too, so pretty much your upgrade options max out with a cromoly Nimbus square taper hub (but double check for compatibility before purchase). Anyway, I suggest, ride it as it is (plus seatpost and seat of course) and don’t hop on it. Tip: the frames of the better brands all use 25.4mm or 27.2mm seatposts as they are stronger.

You could just buy a much better trials uni.

With your last question about putting this wheel into a 26er frame, not all frames are compatible with all wheels. A frame designed for an ISIS hub wont immediately match one that is non ISIS, but you can buy bearing adaptors to convert 40mm bearings to 42mm. Youd also need to see if the bearing distance is compatible too

Just give it a go though. With luck, it will be compatible. If you got the 26er cheaply, it’s probably not an ISIS frame.

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Here’s one on Amazon (no longer available but link still works)
https://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Mountain-Unicycle-20-Inch-Wheel/dp/B00165Q9FS

As far as the frame size, it’s pretty standard - you just need a longer seatpost.

I think I spent about $50 on the hub and seatpost; I wouldn’t spend much more than that.

The stamped bearing holders work OK with ISIS hubs, too. I even had an ISIS wheel in mine for a while. But I wouldn’t bother unless I got a deal on a whole wheel or something. The $30 UDC square taper hub is pretty strong.

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Okay, thanks once again! That looks like the same uni, MrImpossible, like you said.

I’ve decided I’m not going to change anything. The saddle was really twisted stuff but I used a little black magic and got the plastic back in generally the right place, so it’s good enough for now. It’s always an option to get another one in the future, but I’m not looking to spend the money right now. I’m not doing any jumping, as per Gockie’s advice, but it’s a lot easier to idle with and so I’ll probably continue to learn idling and backwards riding on this thing.
It’s also just nice to have another uni :slight_smile:

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I actually used to own, and still do, the unicycle Mr. Impossible linked. It works real well for practice and riding, the bare bones of unicycling. It my was first purchase after I learned to ride on my Yorker Unistar because I kept bending the frame trying to do tricks and such.

Trials would be questionable on this 20 in as well but could work for light trials. I used it for a year or so doing all sorts of goofy stuff. A lot of jumping off of stairs, bleachers, trash cans, tables. You name it, I was probably stupid enough to try it. I ended up landing on the pedals so many times the torque forced one of the pedals to shift down so the pedals are no longer at 12 and 6 but rather 12 and 4:30. I then proceeded to ride it off kilter and got so used to that I forgot what a functional cycle felt like for a bit.

Light fare: Should be just fine
Anything else: you might be riding dirty after a bit

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