Game changer - 36er CARBON wheel!

And I would agree with you if I hadn’t been there and analysed the aftermath.

What I think happened is that when I was not riding, enough air could slowly leak into the bit of very stretchy TPU tube that was just on the other side of the bead until that little bit no longer could contain the unconstrained pressure, splitting and releasing that in a bang as the rest of the air suddenly deflated.

The tyre was still very much constrained within the rim afterwards, which is not what happens when one blows off.

In my earlier comment saying it was one of my nextie blowoffs I should have said something different as I do believe it was an entirely different failure mode.

Indeed I’ve made no changes to the setup since (aside from now running a stretched 29" tube) and have run it at higher pressures than that day for years with no further incidents.

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Thanks for the detail explanation. I should then correct my previous sentence: TPU tubes are less likely to be pinched than butyl tubes. :sweat_smile:
Sorry for your ears!

Does anyone know whether using a regular (non-disc) hub on an asymmetric rim results in a weaker wheel? I don’t see them offering a regular (non-asymmetric) 36er rim.

Here we go - introducing Lunaticas “The Super Oracle” :star_struck:

So I’ve built a new wheel around the rim, featuring the Nightrider Lite tyre and the TPU tube from 36pollici.it. The wheel itself (without cranks) weighs at 2.84kg, about 900g lighter than the stock Oracle 36 wheel.

Lacing the rim was painstaking. At first I laced it to my instinct, that is, offset the rim to the non-disc side (i.e. with the “bigger arc” facing to the disc side); but later in a video call with the Light Bicycle guys, they pointed out that I should lace it the other way, with the rim flipped. I followed their instruction and laced it again, only to find out that it was hard to center the wheel in the frame. Then I read this post and decided my first attempt was correct. Don’t get me wrong, I really appreciated the help from the LB guys, they provided superb customer services. Anyways, I laced the rim 3 times to get it right.

Installing the tire was another difficult part. It was an very tight fit - although not as tight as the Surly ET tyre on my previous 29er build. I had to ask for help from the LBS dudes to put it on. It is pumped to 60psi and being observed for stability. Being that tight, I’m pretty confident that the tire would not explode any time soon. I’ll take it out for a ride tomorrow.

My current impression to this rim is very positive. The workmanship is great, the look is splendid, and it feels that it is able to stand the test of time. Looking forward to go for a ride!

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Yeah exactly

Yes, that’s the way I ended up with.

Actually it’s also the way LB recommend for lacing a front wheel in a bicycle. They somehow thought I was lacing a rear-ish wheel though.

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It is a disc brake front wheel.
Even if you don’t have a brake, there is torque applied through the spokes, which doesn’t exist on rim brake front wheels. This makes using radial or 1/2 crossed spokes a really bad idea.

The asymmetric rim is there to give you more spoke angle, so on any wheel you want the larger arc of the rim (spoke holes furthest away) on the side with the straightest spokes. On a unicycle this is the disk side. On a bike rear wheel this is (generally) the cassette side.

With an asymmetric rim with a symmetric hub you end up building a slightly asymmetric wheel. The wheel will be very slightly weaker as you’re reducing the spoke angle on one side, but it’s unlikely to be significant enough to worry about, and I imagine the difference in spoke length to be extremely small when lacing standard 3 cross.
It’ll likely still be a stronger wheel than one with an asymmetric hub and a symmetric or asymmetric rim as overall you’ve got greater spoke angle, and the spoke hole offset on the rim isn’t really that large.

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Thanks mowcius, that’s what I figured

Here is my review to the Light Bicycle Unicus 36 rim:

This is the third publicly available 36" carbon rim to the best of my knowledge, and probably the only sensible choice by far. The previous products are either too expensive, difficult to find, or having compatibility issues. Thanks to the hard work of Light Bicycle in collaboration with the unicycle community, this rim works perfectly with the Nimbus Nightrider (Lite) tire, which is the most common 36" tire in the market amongst the very few choices. It’s readily available, with a reasonable price starting at $375.

For starters credit goes to Light Bicycle for even making this rim. 36" rims, mostly used on unicycles, are deemed not profitable as it’s for such a niche sport - I can’t even imagine that they can break even. I don’t fully get the idea why they are even doing this but to be honest, they have done a great job, at least as well as their other rim products, which already have a great reputation in the bicycle world.

Some basic facts: the Light Bicycle Unicus 36" rim, its basic version weighs at ~580g, that’s 600g lighter than Nimbus’ Dominator 2 rim (aluminum). It has 36 spoke holes so that it fits with most unicycle hubs (I’m pretty sure they can customize for 32 holes as well). It’s also the first 36" carbon rim (maybe any material of 36" rim in general) that features an asymmetrical design, which is huge for wheels with inboard disc. It has a hooked design to provide great compatibility with the clincher tires, which all current 36" tires are.

I have selected the Braided UD pattern for a fancier look, which makes it 50g more heavier than the basic version. The workmanship is great. I can see a few carbon threads in the spoke holes but nothing more than that. The finish is impeccable. The braided pattern looks fantastic, especially in the sun. I accidentally ordered silver spokes instead of black, but it actually looked surprisingly stylish pairing with the rim - the rim acted as a visually pleasing bridge between the matte black tire and the shiny silver spokes.

Building the wheel was straightforward, but the rim and the Nimbus Nightrider Lite tire has a very tight fit, I had to get help from the local bicycle store to have it installed - this however gave me confidence that it won’t fail like the previous 36" carbon rim product (from another brand) that we had high hope to, but that’s another story. With the Nimbus 125mm aluminum disc hub, Nightrider Lite tire, TPU tube from 36pollici.it, steel spokes and a carbon+steel disc, the completed wheel weighs at 2.84kg (without cranks/pedals), that’s about 1kg lighter than the stock Oracle 36 wheel.

As rotational momentum - the acceleration effort - is proportional to the diameter squared, IMO 36" wheels are those which need carbon rims the most. 1kg reduction of rotation mass is huge for a 36" wheel. By far I’ve had four 20-40km rides on this wheel (on my Oracle 36 frame, with 118mm cranks). In the beginning I had to take a few minutes to adapt to the change, but after that I really enjoyed the new performance. It’s more like riding a 29er, the unicycle becomes much more responsive and easier to handle, I can get to cruising speed much faster, as well as slowing down easier. I can turn sharp corners smoother at speed. It also made mounting easier. The downside, of course, is that I have to put in more effort to maintain speed - the lighter wheel slows down much easier if I don’t eagerly drive it. I also feel it’s a stiffer wheel - maybe the TPU tube also contributes to it. It transmits more details of the road to me. This, along with the reduced flywheel effect, could potentially increased fatigue on extended rides, but it’s yet to be observed.

Finally I really appreciated the customer service of Light Bicycle. They are very humble and responsive, and offered great help in my building.

As a conclusion, I’m very happy with this new rim (and the new build in general). It’s light, performant, well-thoughtout, well-built and reasonably priced. 5/5 would recommend if you are into 36ers.

For reference: when pairing with the Nimbus 125mm aluminum hub, this rim uses 363.5mm spokes on the disc side, 365.5mm on the non-disc side. The rim’s “larger” arc should be facing the disc side when building a unicycle wheel.

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Thanks for this review! I agree with all you said. This is the best 36" carbon rim so far. It is worth every cent it costs.

However, I’m a bit anxious about the following:

It looks like the tightness of the match is damaging my T-Monster tire. I’ll keep monitoring the issue, to avoid a blow-off if it keeps being damaged. For reference, the tire has been installed new on this rim. I have now ridden it for almost 1,000 km since July.
On my other Unicus rim and its NightRider Lite tire, no sign of damage is visible. But I have ridden it way less, so can’t say for sure it won’t get to the same point.
This may be due to the fact that the T-Monster has a BSD of 787 mm, while the NigthRider has a BSD of 789 mm, effectively matching the Unicus’.

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What about the possibility of removing the tire? Have you ever experienced a puncture and its repair?

I’ve never had a problem mounting a tire on a rim (whatever the tire and rim). But when I get a puncture on one of my 36” wheels equipped with the KG ultimate tire and 36" braus rim, it’s terribly difficult to remove the tire. The tire is stuck on the rim like a suction cup.

To tell the truth, my only fear about the LB Unicus rim is having to cut the tire with a cutter to change an inner tube… and I’m not really kidding.

I have had to remove the tire because my tube had an issue. The core was twisted, so it finally started to lose pressure. I failed to remove the tire by myself, with standard tire levers.

Then, I went to see Romain at the CDK shop. It took him 10 seconds to get the tire out of the rim, using some special and long levers. The rim hasn’t suffered from the operation.

Now, you’re right that a tube may be hard to repair or change on the road. You’ll have to carry a set of 3 special levers + an EasyTire tool. However, to be honest, I went on my 3-day trip with this rim and wasn’t afraid of puncturing. I know you did, but I never did and I’m pretty confident it will last for a long time!
Now that it is said, it is certain I will puncture tomorrow :laughing:

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I suppose LB only tested the Nightrider tire, maybe TA as well, as they are the only tires that is available in China (where LB is). T-Monster can work with the Nextie rim so it’s definitely on the tighter side.

That being said, the Surly ET tire on my 29er is the tightest tire I’ve ever seen. I went to two LBS, the first one took 10 minutes to get one bead on and stuck there, they can’t even remove that bead, and suggested to cut the tire. In the second shop 3 muscle dudes used 3 tire spoons and took 30 minutes to finally have it installed. Now I’m totally settled with the fact that if I got a flat I’ll have to replace both the tube and the tire entirely. Anyways back to the topic, I currently see no trace of damage on it yet.

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I already have metal tire levers that I use to remove my 36” tires. You have to be careful not to damage a carbon rim, but it’s definitely doable.

It’s reassuring, and if I could magically replace my 2 braus rims with LB rims, I’d certainly do it. :grin:

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I wouldn’t use traditional metal lever on my carbon rims. The levers I have linked to have a special coating that prevents the rims from being damaged. That being said, the coating seems to wear quite fast so you don’t want to disassemble your wheel every two days :wink:

I’ll just jump in and say… I want to know what goes through the average cyclist’s mind when they see a 36" unicycle equipped with a carbon fiber rim :smile: I feel like I would find the pot of gold at the end of a rainbow before I see a carbon 36er in the wild

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I have no experience with carbon rims but the best tyre lever and the only ones I use now are pedros plastic ones, they are fantastic, super strong and do absolutely no damage to rims with even the thinnest layer of paint on them.

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They don’t seem to offer a big leverage. I’m not sure they would work for our carbon rims :frowning:

For installing of removing a tight tire, differences in temperature will work to your advantage. If the rim and the tire are hot it will be much easier to install. Graphite fiber has a negative coefficient of thermal expansion, which means when it is heated it will shrink. And the steel in the tire bead will expand when heated. Likely up to about 100C would not cause any problems and should provide more clearance for installing and removing tight tires.

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