So I have tried Mad4One’s Flik Flok hub. And… That’s a total blast. Really!
We had the pleasure to have Marco coming to France this week end, in order for us to test his first prototype. We did some light muni with it to see how it reacts. When freehweeling, it’s very similar to other hubs. I haven’t noticed any rolling resistance in the hub itself. It’s really smooth, no issue there!
The fixed wheel has little play, but less than last generations of Schlumpf’s hubs. So that’s perfect!
FYI, the right foot lets you shift from fixed to freewheel whereas the left foot lets you shift from freewheel to fixed.
There are still some little issues:
the buttons are currently flat, which hurts a bit and makes shifts not always easy. This will be fixed for the next prototype with rounded buttons, much similar to Schlumpf’s.
shifting from fixed to freewheel is pretty easy, you just have to have some experience with freewheel (people can learn it pretty fast, it took about half an hour to my friends to ride a bit of freewheel this week end) ; however shifting from freewheel to fixed is much harder. In fact, there are only 6 positions for your cranks to let the button engage so the wheel has to be turning to shift to fixed. That may look like a big issue, but as you are freewheeling, you just have to let the uni roll and it finally engages
the buttons tends to become loose. So you have to check them regularly in order not to lose them. Marco will see if some Loctite would fix the issue.
if you tighten the buttons too much, it will prevent the freewheel to work. That’s very similar to a Schlumpf’s hub: if you tighten the buttons too much, you won’t be able to shift. So that’s not abnormal and as you shouldn’t mess with the buttons everyday, it should not be a real issue
To conclude, I’m really happy with this new hub. It will unlock lots of possibilities. That’s the end of the famous question: “should I go with my fixed or my freewheel uni?”. And that’s really great! I think we could gain a bit of speed for some down slopes with the right training. I’m eager to have my own hub, now
Update on prices including a typical value-added tax of 20%:
Mad4one’s fixable freewheel hub: 1270 € Flick Flock hub; 1100 € as part of a wheel; 1020 € as part of a unicycle; 1420 € standard price after pre-sale.
Schlumpf geared hub with freewheel function in either high or low gear (100mm, 36h, including brake disk! excluding shipping and potential customs?): 2260 €.
Apparently the Schlumpf hub will also be sold by UDC shops for a similar price without any import hassles.
There seems to be a set screw, yes. But I haven’t deeply looked at it. I may remember some little Allen key to tighten the screw but I’m not sure at all. Maybe we should ask more details to @MAD4ONE
I won’t be able to purchase before the end of the discounted period anyway, but after I’d definitely rather buy from UDC rather than deal with customs if that will be an option.
We have not made a decision on what levels we will stock them. Our experience is that it is a high value item with slow sales, so it makes sense to order them in when required. So I suggest you work on getting them on the pre-order. We have got our product on the site: Schlumpf Geared Unicycle Hub
There are a few gaps in the descriptions, but as we get weights and spoke info we will add that to the site and spoke calculator.
I dont want to spend much and only wanting to see if it suits me before maybe progressing to a Flik Flok
Got my Madazz hub delivered from New Zealand last week.
Started building the wheel from parts from an broken 20" electric bike. Re-using rim, spokes, 160mm disc with shimano calipers, wire cable and lever. Using my “aldi” frame (40mm bearing) suits 40mm Madazz freewheel hub.
To mount the brake caliper, i might just drill holes in the frame and bolt on a plate. Rough as, I know. Will a D brake adaptor fit a 40mm bearing clamp?
Woah. If you get that straight, then hats off to you.
The d-brake adaptor is made for bearing diameter of 42mm. To deal with the difference of diameter, you might use half a 40mm to 42mm shim, although I’d guess the d-brake adaptor won’t fit that frame (i.e. upper bearing shell) anyway. But you can ask your unicycle dealer about that.
If you are willing to drill your frame and bolt on a brake tab I think you’ll be able to make a d’Brake fit the frame… as mentioned you’ll need a thin shim of some sort and you might need to file the holes to get them aligined if they are different spacing (maybe they aren’t). I think that would be easier than trying to align a tab.
I like your wheelbuilding stand. I did something similar at one point with a cheap seatpost screwed to a block with the frame on that – I like the block with the hole in it idea though.
When i hold the caliper on the disk it looks like a 3mm plate bolted to the frame might work.
I reakon I wont be on this uni for more than a few seconds at a time for a long while, so not so worried about holes in the frame. I plan to learn without a brake to start with anyway so can unbolt the plate or not even drill for it until ready.
Next stage, I’ll probably keep an eye out for a good priced 24" muni with frame tabs and get hydrualic brake set… i would just swap hubs.
I put the bearing on too soon (before lacing spokes - disc in the way) but found that the interference fit is not too difficult to overcome.
I actually unbolted the brake disk and the 6 screws coming out, touch up against the bearing. By gently unscewing each of the 6 screws they push the bearing off half way. Then I got two screw drivers and leveraged on opposing sides of bearing and it gently moved off shaft. Glad I know that for when rebuilding other wheel sizes with madazz hub.
There was mention that the more clicks in freehwheel, the better/easier staying on.
The Flik Flok has 30 clicks, compared to 18 in the maddazz hub. Specifically, what is the disadvantage and how Is the best to compensate.
After a long hiatus I got back to riding my freewheel recently, mostly at one of my old stomping grounds, the Anza Trail as shown in this old video:
It’s funny to watch my old technique of holding the saddle with my left hand and switching hands to brake with my right hand. I still eschew pedaling while braking but have switched to an all right hand grip on a Nimbus Shadow handle. I also switched from a mechanical brake to a hydraulic one. It’s going to take a little while to get back to my former mediocre proficiency and I’m not sure which is the biggest factor:
my bigger wheel (26" vs. 24")
my bigger self (+30-40 lbs)
my older self (I’m a quinquagenarian now)
my poor conditioning
Temperatures are 90+ F and will soon be 100+ F but that’s no change. I’m hoping to at least improve my conditioning.
I am assuming, after reading your comment above about switching hands, that when you grab with your left hand you are applying power to the pedals without touching the brake. And every time you grab with your right hand, you are applying the brake.
If that is the case anywhere close to 100% of the time, I think your video may be a wonderful training tool!
It’s 100% and that’s a good point about being able to see the difference. In my current set up you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between coasting and brake-coasting. For instance, in this video you can see when I transition from coasting to brake-coasting (i.e., landing on the down slope):
I’ve been working on pedaling and brake-coasting over rollers. I found it relatively easy when the rollers are on an overall up slope (where I can just keep pedaling) but had some initial difficulty when the rollers are on an overall down slope. I think it’s because I needed to get more comfortable pedaling faster and get more used to where I need to stop pedaling and let my momentum carry me over the top because of the larger wheel (otherwise I find myself pedaling on the down side).
Also note my up-down leg position in the first video I posted. Generally you want to have your feet at the same level (with your body off the saddle as much as possible). I still find up-down comforting when I’m tired or need to work up my confidence.
I’m not pushing the envelope of freewheel unicycling but I think I’ve demonstrated its accessibility to average or even below-average riders.
You definitely helped to get this niche of the sport going!
I still think that your skills freewheeling on flat, are leagues ahead of some of us who almost exclusively brake coast on downhills ( guilty). I’m too chicken to learn brakeless coasting still. Every so often I briefly give it a try, then decide to learn something less dangerous instead…
No this is my first freewheel uni and also the one my girlfriend was learning to ride on pre-freewheel hub. Luckily the seat and pedals take most of the beating and trust me, it’s dropped a lot
You’re kind! Even if you don’t end up pure coasting for long stretches I think it’s helpful to have some practice in the bank for times when coasting for a few feet would save you having to use the brake. It’s similar to how I recommend that new riders learn one-footed riding. Most people aren’t going to be doing one-footed muni, however that one-footed practice gives you some extra stability, particular for cases when your foot comes off the pedal and you can get it back on without a UPD.
Regarding coasting, I like it because I have terrible coordination and it’s only doing one thing (balancing). I practiced gliding for a long time and didn’t get anywhere with it. I’m making a concerted effort now to improve my freewheel braking skills but I struggle through sections that are not as challenging when I’m coasting.
including a typical value-added tax of 20%:
But you can ask your unicycle dealer about that.
guilty). I’m too chicken to learn brakeless coasting still. Every so often I briefly give it a try, then decide to learn something less dangerous instead…
