Freewheel Unicycling Megathread

Ahh yes. New frame time? :wink:

Please don’t tempt me :laughing:
I’m already buying a Flik Flok hub and one (or two ?) new Schlumpf hub(s). Don’t want to spend more money into unicycling so I wont buy a new frame while the current one works great! :stuck_out_tongue:

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For tandem cross-alps I have gone pretty much into the science of disk brakes. One thing that I have learnt for organic pads is that (on a bike) you should prepare the pads by doing 30 quick stops from around 30 kph (after that you know what you’ve done). Then the pads are adapted to the disk. Afterwards it’s important to overheat the pads. This leads to the resolvents vaporizing which you feel in a loss of braking power (=fading). Keep on braking for a while still before you let the system cool down again. Next time you reach the same temperature the resolvents are gone already, so the surface of the pads is harder and by not vaporizing resolvents fading shouldn’t be so much of an issue anymore, either. Wear should be reduced compared to non-prepared pads. I also read a manual that explained how to do the overheating part with a heat gun but… did I mention that this is a whole science on its own? :wink: And for disks themselves: Use heavy disks, they can take up more energy for the same temperature.

In the end we brought the tandem safely over the alps without any fading but we used roads and low passes, for sure less stress than offroad use.


My suspicion with disk brakes on unicycles is that the vast majority of riders never really manage to properly bed them in, so they never function as well as they do on a bike. To even attempt to bed them in you’ve got to have some good brake control.

The normal ride down a hill and apply the brake firmly a number of times works on a bike but not so much on a unicycle.


Considering the price of the new M40 freewheel hub, I think some of you may be interested to create a thread similar to 📜 [Wiki] Schlumpf hub serial numbers reference?

Will it have visible serial numbers on its body?


A question for @MAD4ONE.

Yes! Here the Prototype P-00002


So I have tried Mad4One’s Flik Flok hub. And… That’s a total blast. Really!

We had the pleasure to have Marco coming to France this week end, in order for us to test his first prototype. We did some light muni with it to see how it reacts. When freehweeling, it’s very similar to other hubs. I haven’t noticed any rolling resistance in the hub itself. It’s really smooth, no issue there! :+1:
The fixed wheel has little play, but less than last generations of Schlumpf’s hubs. So that’s perfect!

FYI, the right foot lets you shift from fixed to freewheel whereas the left foot lets you shift from freewheel to fixed.

There are still some little issues:

  • the buttons are currently flat, which hurts a bit and makes shifts not always easy. This will be fixed for the next prototype with rounded buttons, much similar to Schlumpf’s.
  • shifting from fixed to freewheel is pretty easy, you just have to have some experience with freewheel (people can learn it pretty fast, it took about half an hour to my friends to ride a bit of freewheel this week end) ; however shifting from freewheel to fixed is much harder. In fact, there are only 6 positions for your cranks to let the button engage so the wheel has to be turning to shift to fixed. That may look like a big issue, but as you are freewheeling, you just have to let the uni roll and it finally engages :slight_smile:
  • the buttons tends to become loose. So you have to check them regularly in order not to lose them. Marco will see if some Loctite would fix the issue.
  • if you tighten the buttons too much, it will prevent the freewheel to work. That’s very similar to a Schlumpf’s hub: if you tighten the buttons too much, you won’t be able to shift. So that’s not abnormal and as you shouldn’t mess with the buttons everyday, it should not be a real issue :wink:

To conclude, I’m really happy with this new hub. It will unlock lots of possibilities. That’s the end of the famous question: “should I go with my fixed or my freewheel uni?”. And that’s really great! I think we could gain a bit of speed for some down slopes with the right training. I’m eager to have my own hub, now :smiling_imp:


On the positions to shift, that sounds like a Schlumpf, as does the buttons coming loose, and the excess tightening issue.

Do the buttons twist on and then use a set screw in the end to lock them into position like a Schlumpf?

Update on prices :euro: including a typical value-added tax of 20%:

Mad4one’s fixable freewheel hub: 1270 € Flick Flock hub; 1100 € as part of a wheel; 1020 € as part of a unicycle; 1420 € standard price after pre-sale.

Schlumpf geared hub with freewheel function in either high or low gear (100mm, 36h, including brake disk! excluding shipping and potential customs?): 2260 €.

Apparently the Schlumpf hub will also be sold by UDC shops for a similar price without any import hassles.

There seems to be a set screw, yes. But I haven’t deeply looked at it. I may remember some little Allen key to tighten the screw but I’m not sure at all. Maybe we should ask more details to @MAD4ONE :slight_smile:

@MAD4ONE/@rogeratunicycledotcom, will UDC UK be getting any of these hubs in after the pre-sale?

I won’t be able to purchase before the end of the discounted period anyway, but after I’d definitely rather buy from UDC rather than deal with customs if that will be an option.

We have not made a decision on what levels we will stock them. Our experience is that it is a high value item with slow sales, so it makes sense to order them in when required. So I suggest you work on getting them on the pre-order. We have got our product on the site:
Schlumpf Geared Unicycle Hub
There are a few gaps in the descriptions, but as we get weights and spoke info we will add that to the site and spoke calculator.

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Oh, despite the Schlumpf hub being mentioned above, I was meaning the switchable Mad4One hub.

I’ve the money for neither right now

ha ha, my apologies. I should have read that closer.

Just started my freewheel uni journey.

I dont want to spend much and only wanting to see if it suits me before maybe progressing to a Flik Flok
Got my Madazz hub delivered from New Zealand last week.

Started building the wheel from parts from an broken 20" electric bike. Re-using rim, spokes, 160mm disc with shimano calipers, wire cable and lever. Using my “aldi” frame (40mm bearing) suits 40mm Madazz freewheel hub.

Images of swapping out hubs from 20"wheel.

To mount the brake caliper, i might just drill holes in the frame and bolt on a plate. Rough as, I know. Will a D brake adaptor fit a 40mm bearing clamp?

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Woah. If you get that straight, then hats off to you. :tophat:

The d-brake adaptor is made for bearing diameter of 42mm. To deal with the difference of diameter, you might use half a 40mm to 42mm shim, although I’d guess the d-brake adaptor won’t fit that frame (i.e. upper bearing shell) anyway. :x: But you can ask your unicycle dealer about that.

If you are willing to drill your frame and bolt on a brake tab I think you’ll be able to make a d’Brake fit the frame… as mentioned you’ll need a thin shim of some sort and you might need to file the holes to get them aligined if they are different spacing (maybe they aren’t). I think that would be easier than trying to align a tab.

I like your wheelbuilding stand. I did something similar at one point with a cheap seatpost screwed to a block with the frame on that – I like the block with the hole in it idea though.