Huh? Isn’t that’s what I said in the next two sentences:
BUT, there is a difference in max inflation by the manufacturer and the max inflation by the rider. And if you want the 2.1 Primo “The Wall” behave EXACTLY like an 1.75 Primo “V-monster” on 4 bar does, then you perhaps need to exceed both. And having such a high pressure gives bad suspension at any skills with hopping involved. And when doing these very intensively it will be bad for your knees and ankles.
From the rest of your post I see we actually just agree a lot.
> Ken Cline wrote:
> > “leo” <leo@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com> writes:
> >[color=darkred]
> > > The 1.85 has less contact with the floor, so it’s a bit easier to
> > make
> > > your maneuvres.
> >
> > I trust your opinion about maneuvering, but floor contact is
> > basically
> > governed by tire pressure
> Huh? Isn’t that’s what I said in the next two sentences:> -myself-[/color]
Sorry in advance to drag this out. It is minor technical nitpicking
(though I hope interesting) and in no way disputes your advice about
the handling of the tires.
All I was try to say is that contact area is essentially independant
of the choice of tire (stiff tires run at low pressure excepted). So
if you need to increase pressure in the larget tire to get the same
feel as the smaller one, the difference is due to something else.
The fact that tire pressure, rather than geometry, dictates the area
of the contact patch is not obvious to most people. It seems
“obvious” that wider tires should have larger contact with the ground.
Is this due to the fork or something else? I’m considering getting the Semcycle longneck fork, but it’s no use if it’s not good for standup wheel walk.
The crown of my qu-ax fork has been tearing my Converse shoes apart when doing standup, and the Semcycle looks better. Maybe it’s just my technique that needs improvement…
Okay that last post made me clear you were only talking about the floor contact only. I totally agree on that (including the word “nitpicking”).
The size of the contact area may be the same, the shapes are not:
The smaller tire will have a more oval contact-area.
The wider tire will have a more round contact-area.
That’s why there will be a minor difference.
I’ve tried the both on indentical Semcycle Longnecks, on one morning in the same gym, and so I come to the things I earlier said: I like the characteristic of the 1.85 (which came close to the 1.75 I was used to in the past), but I also like the fork/tire-distance of the 2.10. So that’s why I told to just choose whatever think you prefer, as you can’t go really wrong.
This flat surface of the crown makes that you can dose your pressure on the tire while stand-up glide, or stand-up ww bw more presize than for example on that (end-of-life) DM ringmaster (which had that nice profile in the almost horizontal tubes).
A) I should nothing
B) I cant keep it trails, as I’ve never had a trail unicycle.
You’ve seen 720’s on crap?
I’ve seen the metal banana seats with some white tape. Very common among east-european and asian unicyclists in tradition circus who operate these monsters daily up to 3 times, year in - year out, to make a living! Usually they have some loose cottered cranks (square and sharp), as a little extra.
Still I don’t understand why I should be masochistic just because others are, before I may ride a comfortable, durable and strong unicycle that suits my riding style.
In general the shorter the cranks the easier spins/pirouttes are to do while the longer the easier other tricks are (seat drag, 1 ft, crossover, etc.). So when I was trying to pass level 9 I switched to really small japanees size cranks. Don’t know the size but do know they are pretty small like 110mm or smaller? That’s why you see lots of Japaneese doing spins cause it’s a little bit easier with smaller cranks. Also they can ride a lot faster so their routines look smoother and flow better. So I’d suggest the longer ones for doing most tricks unless you want to focus on spins and pirouttes.
So would the 125mm be a good in between size for tricks like seat drags and spins/ pireouttes? Right now i have 140mm cranks and 2.5 tyre on my trials and it is very very hard to do spins.
I think the 125’s would be just fine for you. It WILL take a bit to get used to them but after you do, you should see that it should be much easier to do spins and a bit easier for other tricks.
>The fact that tire pressure, rather than geometry, dictates the area
>of the contact patch is not obvious to most people. It seems
>“obvious” that wider tires should have larger contact with the ground.
And they usually do, but that is because of the usually lower air
pressure that the wider tyre is used at, and hence slightly beside the
point.
However, if you use a knobby tyre (which are usually wide), there will
always be a seizable contact patch, even at a theoretical infinite
tyre pressure, because the knobs have elasticity of their own. This
effect will also play a role at practical tyre pressures, and increase
the contact patch of a knobby tyre over a freestyle tyre. Finally, it
is also the SHAPE of the contact patch that matters for
manoeuverability, not only the area. A round contact patch would give
the least resistance for ‘spinning’. I am not sure, though, how tyre
width affects contact patch shape.
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
“Unicycling is like glue: you have to stick with it, and it’s not to be sniffed at - Mikefule”
could he anyone give me a link or post a picture of the upgraded XL semcycle 20" off www.semcycle.com… They dont have one on the site. A picture of a non-upgraded one with a blue tyre would be fine too. I think i will be ordering one soon.
Does the semcycle seat have front and back bumpers (since it has no handle) to keep the seat from being torn up from seat drags and from dropping it? I looked at the picture and i cant really tell.
then you don’t have a freestyle unicycle. Though for the rest I totaly agree with your arguments about knobby tires.
On my Semcycle XL Freestyle (a.k.a. longneck) I’m currently I’m testing the Primo Comet 1.9, a 20" tire, that holds 110 PSI, and hardly has any profile (and i.c.w. 110 mm crancks). I can emphasize everything said before.
The seat does’nt get torn up from dragseat as long you do it on gym floors or alike.
If you do it on raw asphalt or concrete… any seat will be damaged.
I’ve learned mine on raw asphalt, with a Viscount™ seat which I -during practises sessions- reduced for over 30% in length (by making lot’s of sparks!).
Also I often use to use an elbow protecter on the seat. Now (indoor) I use something better: nylon pantyhose-like socks twisted on the front of the seat. But only for dragseat with seat in front in a circle, to make it slide better.
If I perform on streets I now and then make a dragseat without anything covering the seat.
The semcycle seat excists of a metal base, a cushion, and a cover. If it ever may happen, all parts are replaceable with spares. To me any other seat is less comfortable and less strong (including Viscount seats), and -as far I know- none has replaceable parts (or those parts available).
I dont have any indoor places (gyms) to practice in so i only can practice in the street on hard concrete. So the semcycle seat has no bumpers at all? Would it be better to get the viscount seat like this one on unicycle.com? Is this same as the non-upgraded seat of semcycle?
Well if you use it on the street both wont live long. If you want to do dragseat on the street, then better find something to wrap around it. Just a plastic bottle, and some duck tape will do.
The standard KH saddle can take a lot of seat dragging on concrete. When the bumpers do eventually wear out, you can order new ones from Darren Bedford. The KH saddle can also take a lot of sideways wheel walk and side ride. It may not be the best freestyle saddle, but it works for me.
Well right now my Onza trials has a countoured saddle that is similar to the KH i think and is pretty strong and has good bumpers. At UDC they dont have any miyata seats. Where could i get one? Would the seat on my onza (27.2mm) or the miyata fit on the semcycle?
