I called and they asked if I wanted double butted spokes. These are shaved to save weight? Do I want these or just the regular http://www.danscomp.com/products/435910/Sapim_Black_14G_Spoke.html
Butted spokes are slightly lighter, but more than that they make stronger wheels. Still I think for a first build straight gauge are easier since they don’t wind up as much during tensioning.
OK spokes are ordered. Should be here in a few days, and my adventure will begin. I’ll take shots of the whole process.
I ordered these twisted PCs, Hawaiin floral pattern: http://www.danscomp.com/products/465289/Odyssey_Aloha_Twisted_PC_Pedals.html
Should look interesting with the all white Impact Regent frame, white Naomi seat and Grifter tire.
Oh and as far as prepping the spokes, I’ve been hearing a lot of difference of opinion, from no need to now-a-days, to use boiled linseed oil to wheel prep. My friend says not to use anything that would either lock the spoke up or lubricate it, and he’s been doing this for a while…
Wow, what a great piece of advice. I’ve been tensioning all of my spokes at once, and definitely run into issues with over tensioning sections, and end up spending additional time getting the tension back even in the wheel.
I’ll have to remember this next time.
Don’t build without prepping the threads. The galvanic action between nipples and spokes will seize them, making it impossible to turn the nipple. I have built hundreds of wheels with Triflow, and never had a customer come back because of losing tension. Using lube doesn’t mean the wheel will somehow become loose. A properly tensioned wheel will last.
On the other hand, I have also had to clip the spokes out of wheels because the nipples were seized.
Linseed oil is good because it lubes, and produces a good barrier between the dissimilar metals which prevents the galvanic action. I like that it is a natural product, and behaves as a light thread locker.
To rebuild a wheel with a new hub, would this prepping also be necessary?
I guess it would depend on what was used to prep the spokes originally, and how you cleaned the spokes. I would prep them again out of habit.
Another thing to consider is that if you don’t have some lubrication on the threads, and where the nipple seats in the rim, you will have a lot of friction to overcome. That friction can make it difficult to get the tension high enough.
OK now for advice for a truing stand. Looks like the frame will work. What size vice should I get? I see this: Uni wheel truing tool.
What is that gauge? How would you attach the uni to something so the wheel doesn’t touch the ground?
The dial is a micrometer, whatever pushes on the part that sticks out is shown on the dial, so if the rim is out of true you can see how much. Most truing stands have something that slides into the rim, as the wheel turns if it rubs on it it makes noise so you can see where it is out of true. That device just shows the actual amount, not really necessary, but cool 
I did used a zip tie around the fork leg, then cut it off so the tail would hit the rim, worked like a charm.
You can just turn your uni upside down. I use a bench vise to hold it in place upside down with the seat post removed. They make an adaptor that you can use bicycle truing stand, which really makes it easier. I should get one.adaptor link
The gauge is a dial indicator. You don’t need one. If you look in the thread it mentions toothpicks with rubber bands, and zip ties as rim feelers. I prefer zip ties for my uni’s. My truing stand (VAR Atomic) also works for uni wheels without modification, and I use it when I build wheels.
As for a vice to hold your uni frame I just put the frame in my bike workstand and support it that way. I’m not sure how you would clamp the frame in a vice without potentially crushing the tube. I guess you could use frame dies, but they are very expensive for this purpose (generally used to smooth out ripples in frames that have been straightened).
It occurs to me that if i use linseed oil I have to lace the wheel and true it within a few hours and can’t break the job up into parts right? Doesnt the linseed oil dry?
It’s oil so I doubt it but you’d better wait for jtrops to reply :D.
You can take brakes, and come back to it. Even build it over a couple of days. Linseed oil isn’t like a threadlocker product that sets up quickly. It cures over time, and you don’t use much. In fact, I usually dip the threads in the oil, then lay them on a paper towel as I’m getting ready to lace the wheel. By the time I put it together there is only a thin film remaining on the threads.
Also, as a threadlocker it is very releasable.
OK, started lacing the hub/rim. I am reading Sheldon Brown’s classic article.
I’m a little confused about something. My rim appears to be left drilled as the spoke holes directly after the valve hole are offset to the left.
I am insalling the “key spoke” which is a trailing spoke whose head is on the outside of the right hub flange and the spoke runs on the inside of the right flange. That means that it goes in the rim hole two holes away from the valve hole (the hole right in front of the valve hole is to the left of the valve hole on my rim).
Should the “key spoke” always go in the hole directly in front of the valve hole? So for left drilled rim, does that mean the key spoke should go in the left hub flange? The article talks about right vs left drilled rims, but doesn’t specify if the key spoke should go on the left flange if the rim is left drilled or the right flange if the rim is right drilled.
I don’t know the best way to describe this. For all practical purposes I would say you have it correct. I don’t use a key spoke when I build, but I’m assuming it is the spoke to the right of the valve hole? Anyway, if that is the case a left rim will have it on the left side of the wheel, and a right rim will have it on the right. If you continue lacing with the one you started two away from the valve it will be the same as if you started with the key spoke on the left side. In other words, it’s all good.
It’s late at the moment, but if you want to do a google hangout tomorrow I can see what you’re doing, and answer questions as they come up. Maybe I’ll start a google helpout for cycle repair.
Yeah, thinking about it I don’t really see a difference. I took out my KH20 and it looks like I am doing it right. The hole closest to the valve is on the left. I skipped that one and started one away on the right.
Another question. How do you ensure the hub label is lined up with the valve hole when you first start lacing the hub and rim? The orientation changes a bit once you finish lacing right?
This is a bit more tricky. It is purely aesthetic, so if you opted not to do it on your first wheel that would be understandable.
If you think about the spokes in groups of four, two crossing spokes on either side of the wheel, your valve stem needs to land in between two groups. When you put the first spoke into the hub from the outside pay attention to where it hits the opposite flange. You should see that it lands in between two holes. We’ll call this the indicator spoke.
Working on that opposite side: For a left handed rim if you drop the first spoke, from the inside, on the right side of the indicator you will have a symmetrical wheel. If you drop it on the left side it will be an asymmetrical wheel. (for the most part another aesthetic decision, although there is limited evidence that it can make a slightly stronger rear wheel on a bike if it is symmetrical)
Now back to the first spoke (indicator). This will be a pulling spoke, with the head out (the way I’ve described it so far). If you count three “head in” holes to the left of it that will be the crossing spoke (3x).
Basically, you want to have the hub label aligned to that spoke, or a little to the left of it.