What kind of rim tape do I want for this. It looks like the echo rim is drilled if that makes a difference.
http://webcyclery.com/product/echo-rim-strips-1863.htm
Onza tape looks similar:
Hard plastic (some spec it as pvc) seems normal with cutouts. Kris Holm tape is also blue plastic. It looks like Echo supplies 28 mm wide for that rim. When you have the rim, you’ll be able to see how wide it really can be/has to be.
Color matters since you’ll be looking at it, but that’s up to you.
The reinforcement of rim strips that I mentioned the other day is discussed here by lots of people whose innertubes have blown through drilled-out rims. They seem to have come up with some pretty creative solutions: little pieces of Venetian blinds, nylon tape, a doubled rim strip, etc. Just in case you want to run high pressure…
Nice find, and some clever thinking there! I haven’t had any such troubles (yet?) with the two drilled-out rims I have, using the plastic strips that were there when I got them. But I can see how a unicycle left inside a hot car–the situation that started that thread–could be a double whammy. Heat raises the pressure inside the tire and also softens the plastic rim strip.
This is a good deal on the tire:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/maxxis-grifter-20-x-2-1-folding-tire-black?gclid=COi_z4Dm9L4CFQNqOgodHGMA1w
But it has white walls it appears. I’ve never seen one of these with white walls. This is the same basic tire that Kris put on his KH20 flatland right?
the picture shows it mounted on a rim, it’s not white walled.
As suggested by jtrops, I just put a 2.4" x 20" Odyssey Chase Hawk tire on my flatlander. It is smooth and inflates to 100psi (though I’m running it lower), so it is way more maneuverable than the 2.4" Sticky Fingers. It’s a bit like a fatter version of the Hookworm I used to ride, except that it doesn’t make me dance the Twist every time I ride on a cambered road. It’s also thick enough for hopping. Great so far…
Got the rim in the mail today.
It’s a 40mm rim. KH rims are 47mm. Can I use the KH vinyl rim tape? http://www.unicycle.com/unicycle-hardware/tires-tubes-rim-strips-and-valve-caps/kris-holm-white-rimstrip.html?
Will I have to cut it to make it narrower? I need the vinyl tape I assume because these drilled out holes are pretty big.
Oh and got the hub too. How about lacing patterns for this rim and hub. 32 hole. It looks to me my KH20 is 2 cross. If I follow one spoke from hub to rim it crosses two other spokes on the same side. Do I want to do the same pattern on my echo 32 hole rim with Nimbus 32 hub?
I can’t say about the rim strip, but if the KH won’t work I would get one that fits rather than trimming. You want a nice finished edge that won’t cut into your tube.
I would look at your wheel again. 2x is not likely. If you follow the spoke from the hole in the hub it crosses a spoke almost immediately at the hub. My guess is that you missed that one, and that the wheel is 3x. And, yes you want to use a 3x pattern for 32h too.
Do you mean on the same side of the rim right? You don’t count how many it crosses on the other side too right…?
KH wheels are 3x, you dont want to build a 2x wheel for unicycling!
Also, why dont you just use normal ducktape for your rim tape? You can choose different colors also! 
Come to think of it I have duct tape in my Try All rim. I used two layers sticky side up, and a couple of layers of fiberglass Sheetrock tape on top to reinforce it. I haven’t had a problem.
Ok I just got the Echo rim tape.
So I calculated my spoke length using this: http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator
- ERD: 383mm
- spoke hole diameter: 2.5mm
- Hub diameter: 55mm
- Hub center to flange center: 34mm
I came up with 184.6mm spoke length.
So now what? Should I get a hold of one of that length to make sure it’s the right size, or do I just go for it and get the amount I need for the build? I see that spokes come in 184 and 186mm sizes. Which one do I want? Any type of 14g spoke brand recommended?
Between them I would get 184. 186 will be 1.4mm too long. As for brand, I have been favoring Sapim for the past few years, but honestly most spokes seem pretty good anymore. If you look at BMX spokes you can get cool colors. Remember to get brass nipples. Also, don’t forget your spoke prep. I use boiled linseed oil.
Getting one spoke won’t really confirm the length calculation. You won’t know for sure until you have it all laced up. As long as you are sure about the flange diameter (measured through the center of the spoke holes), and the ERD you should be safe.
Also, when you first lace it you may think it is too loose. That will quickly take care of itself as you bring up the tension.
Can anyone recommend a good hub to replace a KH Moment? UDC has 36H hubs, and some are 50% off right now, but they come in a bewildering variety of different widths. They sent me a KH replacement, but building a wheel sounds like a big job, and I’d prefer to only do it once, so I’m considering spending a little money and trying a different brand. Any trials hub should work. I’m a 200-pounder, and at the end of the day I just want to be able to go off a picnic table and ride off into the sunset without being accompanied by a loud clatter.
I used this calculator: http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator. Is this known to be a good one?
So would .6mm short make a difference?
I ran your numbers through my calculator of choice and came up with the same number, so as long as your measurements are good you should be golden. And again, I would go with 184’s.
As a general rule if you are within a millimeter of the calculated length you should be alright. The only thing you need for sure is to have the end of the spoke above the shoulder of the nipple (where the head starts to form). If the spoke ends below the shoulder it creates a stress riser at the shoulder, and that is the main cause for nipple failure. IF the spoke ends above that point it reinforces the nipple and eliminates the potential stress riser.
Going too long poses a couple of problems. The main concern is losing threads on the spoke, and not being able to tension the wheel appropriately. The secondary concern is not as critical, and that is having the spoke end sticking out past the nipple. On some rims with either a shallow box section, or a single wall this can cause flats.
Will these work fine? http://www.danscomp.com/products/435910/Sapim_Black_14G_Spoke.html?
They appear to come with nipples. Do you generally order extra? Do i need A tension gauge? They are a bit pricey.
Those are great spokes. You should ask dans for 185’s. I’m pretty sure they cut them to custom length at no charge. I know that I have received spokes from them that looked like extra threads were rolled.
I don’t mean to confuse the spoke length, but if even numbers are your only option I’d still use 184.
As for a tension meter, not necessary. I built wheels for decades without one. I only recently got one, and it confirmed that my wheels are very evenly tensioned. Tensioning is probably the most important thing regarding the strength of the finished wheel.
I use the 3x3 method: tighten every third nipple, and it will take 3 revolutions of the wheel to hit every spoke. This method brings up the tension evenly around the wheel, and helps to avoid over tensioning part of the wheel.