This is how it came from Jakob, metallic orange.
I did offer them in Orange too. I wanted to find an ‘‘official’’ color. I always liked orange 
I kept offering them in raw, because I like the look and I am aware not everyone likes flashy colors. I didn’t want to paint them all and see some of them being stripped right away (I hate wasting).
Good call Jakob. I like flashy colors 
Did you find a general industrial painting company to do them or was it done by a car painting shop ? Anything specific to keep in mind when planning to transform a raw one into a flashy one (type of paint, coating) ?
Mine is also in Flansberrium orange and it has two faces recently. I still keep the road setup 650b x 2.8 after marathon race at Unicon as I don’t have time for much XC riding recently and I really like this one for my commute from time to time.
And the second setup will be for muni only, mostly dh i guess with 650b x 3.0 nobby nic ungeared. Suprising how small this tire looks in this setup.
I get ine powder coated, all you have to make sure is that the powdercoat is really thin. Otherwise it gets in the way for seatclamp, disk brake mount and bearings. My first one had to be modified a whole bunch of ways and didn’t look super good. I use a special 2 coat paint, this is why it’s harder with mine to make it thin. If you use a ‘‘normal’’ color, it’ll be easier for the guys doing the job.
Simplet but nice! If you want new decals, I can send you the files by email and you can have them printed the color you want!
I want this
For sure haha. I’m not planning on selling stickers, I want to sell frames!
send em. 
Back in the workshop!
For the ones who aren’t on facebook or who aren’t following yet (if you aren’t, you have something to do next time you log in 
). I got back from my long trip in Australia, then started getting my workshop ready! It’s all good and ready to work!
1 more b*ke, 3 more unis already came out of the shop! I’ve got materials for a few more, I’ll order some more if needed.
For anyone interested, specs and pricing will stay the same. All aluminum, 27.2mm seatpost with a 31.8mm seatclamp (can be different if requested), Compatible with KH Schlumpf of all generation, fat tires, skinny tires, double brake tab for disk, ect. If you’ve got crazy plans for some crazy ideas, I’m always in to find a solution!
Ride hard!
PS.: I can’t get the pictures to work! Help me!
I can’t tell, is this frame raw alu or painted in some way? I love the darker grey and am not sure if its due to the lighting or some paint.
That frame was painted. I sold it raw, and he had it painted on his own. The color is very nice! I’d like to see in person to know what it really looks like!
27.5!
Just got my 27.5 built up! Currently at 4.42kg/9.76lbs but I have a couple of bolts and small pieces to swap out that will drop it to around 4.35!
Looks Pretty Bad!
Looking niiiice! I love seeing other custom parts paired with my frames! 
Those cranks are nuts. How many holes are drilled in there? Do you think they will hold up? I’ve seen ventures snap without being drilled.
Heh, those cranks were drilled about half a year ago and they seem to be holding up fine for now. The holes aren’t really for weight savings, they are tapped so I can change my pedal length anywhere from 30 to 150mm!
I don’t own a drill press so those cranks were drilled by eye and some holes are a little tilted. I’m still looking around for one so I can get my new set of cranks drilled the same way.
Riding Muni with 30mm crank length is impressive :D:D
I don’t even know if it’s possible to ride it with 30mm cranks, but let’s say it’s ok.
There is something that sounds like an issue to me with this huge 30-150mm range: the seatpost/frame neck.
let’s imagine the pedals are on the 150mm position, the seatpost touching the bottom of the frame (best scenario for what’s following).
now you want to movet the pedals on the 30mm position, if you want to keep the same knee degree at the low pedal position you have to raise the saddle up 4" to 5" higher, but then there is just a bit of the seatpost left inside the frame, which makes it weak.
Now let’s imagine you barely move the saddle’s height when changing from 30 to 150, then you’ll have the legs straight on the muni/trial mode (150s) and the legs flexed on the fast spinning/cruising mode (30s), which is also weird cause you rather want the contrary of that.
Do you have several sets of saddle+seatpost depending on which crank hole you want to use?
maybe I am completely wrong.