There would be less of a weight saving with the new Coker wheel as they’re 48 spokes as opposed to the 36 spokes of the Nimbus Stealth.
There are 12 more spokes, but they are 14 gauge, and the old ones are 12 gauge. I would bet that the weight gain from the spokes is nominal, and the benefit of a lighter rim should be dramatic.
Unfortunately, 12 more nippels adds weight at the rim which is a bit counter productive. So, the question is: How does the weight of the new rim+nippels compare to the weight of the old rim. I’ve read on the forum about people using 29" tubes in the Coker tires to bring the weight down, and this could make up the difference. Not to mention that 29’er tubes are $5, and Coker tubes are $20.
I have bought my 700mm tubes already…just waiting for them to arrive. I will try out the tubes. My question is how much do 12 spokes weigh, it can’t be a very big weight difference could it?
When I change out my tube I will weigh the steel rim and see the difference.
I’ve seen plain 14 gauge bike spokes (700c) quoted as something like 7g each, so at a rough guess I’d say even 36er ones are going to be under 10g each. I don’t know if that 7g was including nipples, but guessing at 10g per spoke including nipples probably wouldn’t be far off. So, something like 120g for the 12 spokes. And that’s distributed evenly over the wheel rather than being all at the rim, so not as bad as 120g extra on the rim.
And you’ve got 12 more holes in the hub and rim, saving a bit of weight there 
Rob
A savings of 120g or 4oz savings from the hub to the rim really isn’t much at all. I guess if someone were racing and every bit counted then it would matter, but if I lost lets say 10 pounds (I need to lose it) off my gut I think that would make a much bigger difference in my performance.
I will be weighting my steel rim soon and I will post my finds.
According to UDC.nz 14g spokes are almost half the weight of the 12g Coker spokes. So, if that is true, there will be a net loss of weight even with the addition of 12 more spokes. You should have a lighter, and slightly stronger wheel if it is tensioned well.
a 12 gauge, 376mm spoke weighs 15.7 grams against 9.1 grams for a 14 gauge, 371mm spoke.
There will be more details in the 36" wheel weight loss article in issue 9 of Uni - The Unicycle Magazine…
For extra pedantry: the 12 gauge spokes were 4 years old and used while the 14 gauge were new.
Thanks for weights Mike P that helps a lot.
So here are the actual weight savings with the spokes:
36 x 14g spokes: 12oz or 335 grams
48 x 12g spokes: 26.6oz or 753 grams
48 x 14g spokes: 15.8oz or 477 grams
48 spoke 12g to 14g weight savings: 10.8oz or 305 grams
48 spoke 12g to 36 spoke 14g weight savings: 14.6oz or 418 grams
The one you left out was the one that matches your situation:
36, 12 gauge spokes = 565.2g
48, 14 gauge spokes = 477g
So, 48 lighter spokes will be 88g lighter than 36 heavier spokes.
jtrops I did these out that situation because I didn’t think it arrises anymore… and wouldn’t for most of us when doing a wheelset upgrade…but that is good info to know.
In truth, I can’t believe how good that deal is from Coker.
If you were to build a similar wheel from parts and do the labor yourself that wheel would cost over $200 without shipping from UDC. It really is very little to pay for an upgrade that will certainly make the ride more enjoyable.
Have you ridden the Coker yet?
I have tried it…I have rode down the street a ways. I am getting much better on my 26 and when I make that switch to the 36 it feels so very different. I am going to put 5" (127mm) pedals on my 26 to try and get the gear ratios closer so it will be easier to switch. I have to say I LOVE the feel of the Coker, it is so smooth and fast. With 6" pedals I feel like am barelly moving my feet and I am cruising!
You will have to try it and see what you think.
I have 125’s on my 29’er, and they feel good, but are a little squirly going downhill. The 150’s are a bit more confident, but noticeably slower. I wonder how the extra inertia from the 36" wheel plays into crank length.
I put a brake on my 29’er just so that I could have better control of the big wheel. I can imagine that it would be even more practical for a 36" wheel.
Does your frame have a hole in the crown for a caliper brake? I had to drill mine.
I am running 152’s on my Coker and I am going to run 127’s on my 26".
I am going to have to drill a hole in my crown, does that mean your using road bike style brakes? I was going to rig up some Vbrakes that I chop off an old mountain bike. So your caliper brakes work fine?
I have V-Brakes on my 29’er, but I am thinking about changing them out for caliper’s. I originally had a 26" wheel, and the only way i could put the brake on was to strap it on with a V-Brake adapter. I have since built a 29" wheel, and drilled my frame for the adapter, but the hole will work for calipers, which I think will be sufficient plus I think it will look a little more streamlined. I have plenty of calipers, and brake parts laying around, so it won’t be a big deal to play around. It works pretty well as is, but it will be interesting to see the difference.
Nice Uni…I will have to drill the hole in my coker frame and see how the caliper works on that. Since I am still learning I won’t need to use a brake for a while but I can at least drill the hole.
Come to think of it, I seem to remember some posts about people prefering caliper brakes on Cokers, and some disapointment with the Magura bosses on the Nightrider frames.
If you do a search for “coker brake” you’ll get a lot of hits that go over the various oppinions, but from the sounds of it a sidepull caliper brake makes a lot of sense for a downhill drag brake. And the ability to set the pads wider is a nice solution to the frame/wheel flex that causes intermittent brake rubbing.
Yes that is the way I will go…just a side pull caliper, I have an old one at home already and I think I will try the friction shifter as the brake lever.
Now all I need to do build up my legs so I can ride for awhile.
I took my older Coker a part last night so here are the weights…
Steel wheel set w/bearings 88oz or 2490.4g
Coker Button tire 64oz or 1811.4g
36" tube 18oz or 509.4g
152mm steel cranks 24oz or 679.2g
plastic pedals 10oz or 283g
total 204oz or 5773.2grams or 12.75 lbs
700mm tube 5.2oz or 147.2g
Coker new wheel set $118 41.3oz or 1170g
Weight difference with new wheel set and 700 tube is 59.4oz or 1682.2g
Weight difference with new wheel set and 36" tube is 46oz or 1320.2g
I was most surprised at the weight of the button tire…it is almost as heavy as the steel wheel set and heavier than the new Alum wheel set?? 
And the button tire is supposed to be the lightest 36" tire?
So do I spend $124 for a weight savings of 46oz or just lose that weight in my belly? That is the question.
Going from a 36" tube to a 700C tube was a noticeable difference. Loosing over a kilo and an half would be a massive improvement.