But the selection of 26" fat tires is much larger. A 26x 4.0 tire corresponds exactly to a 27.5x 3.0 in terms of circumference / diameter. I prefer 26" fat tires. By the way: I found a company that offers fat bike tubes with a weight of 160g! I just forgot the name. I will definitely buy one and test it. This saves over 200g of rotational mass
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Nice, those will def help with rotational weight. The bike shop I go to always like to use 300g as the point where you start to notice the change but even 200g is a nice weight savings
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I found it
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It can also be a lot more, because the Schwalbe 390g tubes that I use are among the lightest. There are also fat bike tubes from other brands that weigh up to 600g.
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Makes a good case for going tubeless then.
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Interesting. So TPU, rather than TPE, but otherwise a very similar idea to Foss
I have now ridden the first 10 kilometers with this tube. My setup: ONE4ALL Fatty fork, 45mm wide rim, Surly Nate 26x 3.80 tires. I notice the 250g weight saving especially when starting. Once I’ve reached cruising speed I don’t notice any difference. When braking with muscle power, I have the feeling that the weight difference can also be felt slightly.
Since this tube is designed for tire widths up to 5", it is quite wide. Its entire behavior during assembly is also different to that of butyl tubes. Conclusion: I’ve never had so much trouble mounting a tube. It seems smaller than 26", That’s why you can’t just put it in the tire with a little pump, you have to slowly bring it onto the rim sideways. The new Schwalbe tire levers with locking function helped me the second time. Because at some point you will get to the point where the tire keeps coming off the rim on the other side.
Well the tube seems impervious to damage, I accidentally pinched it between the tire and rim.
I think with its weight around 150g it is a serious alternative to tubeless, because the sealant weighs too and I suspect that it is not much lighter.
I save a total of 0.5kg, because I always take a spare tube with me, so 250g less in my luggage.
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The weight is almost no longer an argument not to buy a Fatty. With the new tube, the weight of my lightest Fatty drops below the magical 6kg limit. And that with a CrMo fork. There’s still a lot of weight in reserve
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I’m returning to this post now that I’ve mounted the Surly Nate 26 x 3.80 on a 65mm carbon rim. At first I was annoyed because for the way I ride a unicycle, the Nate rides much better on the 45mm wide rim: I ride a lot of forest roads with tar sections. 45mm rim is actually too narrow for a fatty tire. The tire has a narrower shape and e.g. at 1 bar fewer studs touch the ground. Result: The tire rolls well and can be steered reasonably well. Now the comparison to the 65mm rim: The tire rolls much worse for the simple reason: more studs touch the ground. The difference is very clear. It is also a little harder to steer and the self-steering is more. But the grip is better. Now the big plus: As I already suspected, the air pressure can be further reduced to 0.4 bar, while with the 45mm rim the limit is reached at around 0.6 bar. One thing is clear to me: Since I don’t ride extreme downhills, I’m going back to the 45mm rim. The 65mm carbon rim was an unnecessary and expensive bad investment for me.
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Maybe you have not found the right tire for this rim.
I have the 4.0 Schwalbe Jumbo Jim on mine, and it feels like riding a non-fat tire 
I still have a Nate 60tpi to swap for the day I will go do some serious downhill. But the Jumbo Jim is my all terrain setup.
I know the Jumbo Jim, I had it on the Fatty unicycle at the very beginning when I was testing different tires because, according to bike magazines, it rolls best. I found it terrible, it rolls perfectly straight, but corners and self-steering are terrible. I also ride it on my fat bike, where I like its rolling abilities in the summer. But it’s difficult to steer there too. In this regard, I think the Kenda Juggernaut Pro is the best. But in winter with snow and mud you need the Surly
True, nothing beats the Surly Nate (or Lou if you have enough clearance ).
I have not tested the Jumbo Jim at “fat pressure” but I can imagine it will be all over the place (it does not have much structure to be that light). However, running it between 1bar and 1.5bar (depending if I will have only dirt or some road sections to deal with), I am very happy with it and combined with the carbon rim it is rolling with pleasure.
Maybe one day I will get around to find a Juggernaut and see it in actoon 
Hi.
I’m rollin on 4.8 for over ten years now.
I like the way fatties keep the ride soft and smooth. Therefore the lack of control and the selfsteering is ok with me.
And ever rode one over soft sand along the shore? Awesome.
The Jumbo Jim is a fast one but a bitch when its about self steering and it is a complete loss, when the trail needs traction.
Schwalbe knows how to make tyres but i think they had a fat looking tyre with little rolling resistens on there mind.
Most of the time i was going on 80mm and Surlys Lou.
Surlys are so super soft- the fold around everything and chew on it until they found grip.
But after i tried my 100mm with a 4.8 Maxxis Minion i have to admit - that one is the real “traction jackson” in my barn.
When the ground gets deep and wet, minion keeps on going straight where the surly went wild in all directions.
But its corse pattern eats up lots of energy…
For the last few weeks now my favorite setup is 80mm and Schwalbes AllMighty.
That one is jackpot in every diciplin so far.
It goes smooth and fast like a roadbike, it provides lots of grip in every situation an the selfsteering is compared to jj not there.
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Sounds very good. Especially the option for spikes. It has just snowed over 20cm here and it will be icy next night. Then I hope. that Schwalbe will come with a 4.0".
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Hi. I agree with what you’re saying about the Jumbo Jim. I gave up on it pretty quick.
I’m wondering about your 100mm rim. Maybe you could shed some light on my questions in this post?: Wheelbuilding - experience of a novice who didn't want to read a book - #47 by UniMyra
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I like that CownShoe with the spokes only at one side. Got it that way on the backwheel of my moonlander.
For my Uni i had the wheel build by Roland from unicycle.com Germany.
It was the symetric way like surly does at the I.C.T.
With the 100mm hub the spokes had little to non angle sideways. But it was no problem.
But the 100mm rim was no help in riding compared to 80mm.
So now its an I.C.T. wheel again.
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I bought a Hatchet when it first came out, and the rim that came with it was a 65mm Surly Large Marge. I thought it would be better with a wider rim, that’s why I bought the Clownshoe. It certainly looks cool.
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It “surly” does :o)
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Here’s the comparison 65mm carbon rim (left) with Kenda Juggernaut and 45mm aluminum rim (right) with Surly Nate (both 4").
You can clearly see on the left how a wider rim also makes the tire wider, while a narrower rim gives the tire a more rounded shape.
Wider rim: Clearly more grip possible thanks to a larger contact area and lower air pressure
Narrower rim: Tire rolls much better and is easier to steer
Well, since the needs are different, both rim widths can be correct. For me as a touring-oriented rider, the choice is clearly a 45mm rim.
But I will certainly also include a wide carbon rim in the shop, everyone can decide for themselves.
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