was able to get my first freemount using this today! very wobbly start, but was able to stabilize after 1 rotation on my first 29"
This is still my principle way of mounting my 24" muni. It’s a fun mount.
First successful freemount!!!
I’m phsyched! Nailed my first successful freemount today using this method. I then proceeded to do it again for 3 out og the next 6 times, including my last run of the session.
My problem with the other type freemount is ending up on top of the unicycle with my pedals in the 6-12 position and not really being able to pedal.
This technique enables one to get the feet on the pedals and the standing up motion generates a degree of the forward momentum needed to begin riding.
It is truly an awesome feeling. The key is to really dive over the unicycle like you are trying to dive into the ground.
Does someome have a method to gradually move from the rollback mount to the static mount, or is this an all or nothing proposition? I can rollback mount pretty consitently, but have problems not putting weight on my rer foot when attempting (and failing) a static mount.
Thanks!!
I think it’s all or nothing. You have get the feeling of putting just enough pressure on the back pedal to hold the cranks still. You just have to practice until it clicks.
Practicing on a hill or ramp, facing downhill, may help. This makes it harder to roll the wheel back by accident and a little easier to get up and over the wheel. Practice at the bottom of the incline and UPDs off the front will put you on level ground.
This video by MuniAddict shows a good way to practice the motion of static mounting with a couple of cinder blocks.
Martin
With a static mount it may help to point the toe of your rear foot down before mounting…good luck
Wish I could do a roll back mount…
For a static mount I think it is worth thinking about keeping no weight on the pedal at all. I sometimes even lift my foot a tad just as I hop on.
Other than that just practice with a backing block or curb until you get the feel. A lot of the problem for beginners as the fear of doing a face plant over the front. A decent block to stop the rearwards movement eliminates that possibility. Once you have a feel for it then you are away, the facing down a slope works too but is less secure for the beginner. I can still have trouble mounting facing up a gentle slope
Cheers
James
still cant free mount, static mount wheel grab mount or any other mount!
I’ve been riding about three years now and can’t do any kind of mount. I can ride as far as I want with no troubles with the exception of the odd UPD. I can’t mount if my life depended on it. Tried the wheel grab and ended up with my fingers jammed between my tire and frame. Curb mounted once. Free mounted once, but I always find myself at the point of no return with both feet on the pedals then it all goes wrong. HELP ME PLEASE! slowest learner EVER! thanx
- I use two hands to hold the wheel, not one
- I use gloves and wrist guards to give me the confidence that if I do fall, it won’t hurt. It keeps me less cautious.
- Leaning your elbow on your knee keeps you stable when you’re standing, but throws you off as soon as you move your other foot onto the pedal. Keep your elbows out.
- I had to tell myself s.l.o.w.l.y s.i.t u.p. If I got on and could pedal and I threw myself quickly into a sitting position I would keel over. So I had to remind myself to do it in a super controlled slow manner.
- I also had to tell myself to not ride anywhere one day until I got up.
And for all the muni “you won’t want to grab your wheel when it’s covered in mud” people… We’re just learning to freemount. Why would we be going through mud??? A clothes pin threw me off today
thanks for resurrecting this thread. very timely for me. yesterday I finally started hands free curb mounting, getting out of the gutter is a problem still. today I tried a jump mount, got my first shin ding then I found a concrete parking barrier in a handicapped parking spot (appropriate) which helped me practice mounting from level ground without rollback. I’ll don the shin guards and take a shot at a grab mount next time. I need more freedom!
Today while sitting in the grass, after failing to get up 10 times in a row going up a hill, I had a brilliant strategy…
Start in a driveway. All I needed was that few revolutions to get up to speed, but couldn’t on the hill. Most of the driveways around me were flat. Start in the driveway, then turn and get going back up the hill!
Today was my first real “freedom” ride where I didn’t just go half a block to the local school, I went a km down the road and back.
Projectsimpson
I have hit my hand on the frame when I don’t grab the wheel far enough forward. Try holding even with the pedal (pedal at 9:00 and 3:00 or so) and keep your off hand forward in front of you too. This works for me. Good luck and keep trying.
I have the exact same problem on my new 36’er.
Tried it the 1st day without the handle and the wheel grab mount worked way better than I’d expected.
So i immediatly fitted the handle and now theyre poking me in the chest whenever i try mounting ;(
Thanks!!
Created an account just to post this: This thread has revolutionized my unicycling! I’m coming back from a decade hiatus, and before reading this thread I was trying a hands-off-the-wheel start that I used in my 20s. I could stick it maybe 30% of the time, but it’s still frustrating when the family is walking farther and farther away down the path and I’m still trying to get up.
After learning the hand on wheel method, I can get up 95% of the time!
I’ve figured out that a little fudge factor is good, so the standing pedal is toward me around the 4 o’clock position. That way I have enough juice to pedal forward as soon as my other foot hits the opposite pedal.
Thanks a million!
Welcome to the forum, sandworm. I used the tire-grab extensively on my beginner-24" unicycle. To sum up what I liked about it:
- Pedals can be put in the best possible position to ride-away.
- The TG mount happens in slow motion, compared to other mounts; more time is always good.
- It's easier to get the second foot placed correctly on the second pedal.
- The physics of the mount is simpler, because the body and the unicycle are coupled, and there is no initial motion in the pedals.
- Starting near the 9/3 position promotes keeping the seat higher (because you're taller in the 9/3 position and able to clear a taller seat).
On smaller wheels - no one mentions using the brake to free mount instead of a tyre grab.
Is this possible?
Or is the centre of gravity is completely wrong?
I did imagine that the brake would simulate a kerb mount.
Also - a rolling mount with a quick jab of the brake should make things interesting, and provide a significant amount of forward / upward motion.
The timing of the brake release would be critical if it worked.
By all means, learn this method. But, the biggest challenge of using the brake to mount, in my experience, is having to keep your balance after releasing the brake. Also, if the hand slips off the brake, for any reason, that could result in an ugly UPD.
Thanks - I thought there must be a good reason not to give it a try.
I will try the tyre grab on my 24"club freestyle tomorrow.
The 20" is just about small enough to jump up onto with a gentle back slope. So I am nearly there.
The 24" is way too high for me, and needs a solid kerb to guarantee success.