Drilled vs solid un-drilled rim pros/cons?

I’m considering a carbon rim for my muni and currently use a 2.6 DHRii minion and really like it. I’m looking at lightbicycle rims but unsure whether to go with the 35mm internal width rim or the 40mm internal width rim. Any thoughts?
Also, they are asymmetric rims; fairly common on mtb wheels but anyone have any experience with a uni wheel?

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What pressure do you ride with? If high(ish) go 35mm. If lower, go 40mm.

Fairly low: somewhere around 20psi and then mess around dependant on terrain. Currently tubes though and want to try tubeless once on carbon

I was having the same wondering. Can’t say I know for sure that this would be ok for unicycles as I see dedicated unicycle rims are symmetrical.

But I’d presume that an asymmetrical rim is likely going to help with spoke tensioning being more equal for a disc-hub - so you’d run the rim with the angled side towards the disc flange of the hub.

It shouldn’t make any different to the way the wheel feels or rides as it would have to be build with a correct dish.

But all of this is just my thinking and not something I’ve seen any views in this forum.

This is the main reason I’m more likely to head in the direction of a Nextie rim as they are symmetrical so would feel more than standard unicycle rims.

Those light bicycle rims do look nice though :thinking:

Yer the nextie ones are also on my radar, but lightbicycle seems to have been mentioned more than them in the posts iv seen. I agree, I can’t see why assymetrical wouldnt be benificial in the same way it would on a mtb wheel. But would be nice to hear it from someone that knows more about these things than me before i drop money on it…:sweat_smile:

Lightbicycle rims are also simmetrical. I own one

They do but not in the size I want

I suspect that Marco made a measurement error and the rim is lighter. Just ask, because it looks like we all use the same rim:




I have a lightbicycles asym rim on my 26", it works great as you would expect. More even spoke tension because it matches the off center flanges on the disc hub.

I also have asym carbon rims on my MTB front wheel (disc brake), and MTB back wheel (because the cassette is wider than disc; offset is backward from front wheel). And aluminum asym rims on the rear wheel of my road bike (because of the cassette), rear wheel on my wife’s road bike (cassette again), and front wheel of my fixed gear bike (disc brake - back wheel is symmetrical with no brake or cassette).

Zero problems with any of them, ever. I see offcenter drilling as an entirely positive thing.

The best asym rims also have an asym profile to match. My LB rim is just the standard rim, drilled off center, so the spoke holes aren’t on the top of the rim arch. On a narrow rim with a steep arch that would be a bad thing, but on my wide and flattish rim it doesn’t matter much.


Thanks, that’s really helpful to hear someone with real world experience of them. I’m still deciding between i35 or i40 but I think im happy enough with them being asymetrical now

If you want carbon for cheap you might consider Bulls Hattori Carbon Felge 27,5" 32L schwarz | CNC - Online Shop - Christoph Nies Cycles (129€) - it’s a very wide rim so you likely don’t want to go below 2.6" for your tires.
More info here: Pictures of your latest ride continued - #2020 by Hammer

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Late last year I picked up a second hand KH 26er and whilst it has become my go to ride, I’m already tired of how many punctures I’ve had, all through the drilled holes in the rim. Things have improved since adding extra rim tape but I’d take a solid rim over a drilled any time to avoid the hassle.

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Or use a tick tube for Muni but extra weight will be higher than holes rim weight saving

Seriously? What punctures through the holes?

Are you using the standard plastic band tape that those unicycles originally came with?

Yep, at least three. Thankfully since adding extra rim tape it seems to be sorted. I’m guessing the original rim tape is a bit old and past its best.

What was it that punctured through? Normally you need something to exert quite a bit of pressure to puncture, which on the inside of the rim I just can’t see happening.


I know this problem. I had the same problem with a KH rim. I suspect that the edges of the milled holes were too sharp, because the rim tape always tore there. I then took 2 layers of rim tape and it went better.

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That one I’ve heard before, and I suspect is why the continuous band tape is normally used - it’s that bit thicker than standard tape.

Anyway, I think drilled rims (aside from super wide ones) were a product of their time, and although they look cool (until mud coats the inside of your rim) their time has passed.


That’s right, I often had water in my tires when I had to take them off the rim

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To be honest I haven’t a clue. I checked the rim after each puncture and couldn’t find anything untoward, but the punctures were all on the inside of the tube