You can have your KH Uni in any color you want, as long as it is blue…
Unicycling is already a niche market, offering products for even more niche markets within that market doesn’t make a lot of sense. The people that are really specific about what they want aren’t really significant for manufacturers and dealers (I love UDC and most the manufacturers, not trying to talk crap, but I think that is the reality we live in).
If 90% of people who buy upwards of a Nimbus oracle want a disk brake, there is really no market for a model without one.
The steel frame versions of Quax and Nimbus tend not to come with a brake and they are much cheaper. If you don’t want a brake you can always go for one of those, they are top-notch unicycles. Nothing wrong with a steel frame: is only a bit heavier than an aluminum frame and also I’m guessing the steel is stronger than alumunium. I’ve got a Quax 26 muni steel frame, is bomb proof, it is an excellent Unicycle and I ride the same trials I do with my KH 26 (which I bought later on because I wanted to fit the Knard tyre). In most models of the top range Unicycles you are paying mainly for the upgrade to an Aluminum frame (with the disc brake ready mount), sometimes a lighter hub/more confy saddle. The thing is once you add up the extra cost of this upgrades the cost of adding the disc brake to the Unicycle is minimum. The cost of an average/low cost disc brake is minimal (but they have huge braking/modulation perfomance) . Therefore, to me, it makes sense that they fit the disc brake in the top range as default. You can always take it off and put it back on later on if you feel like you need it. 
The more I read about the mechanical design of brakes on a uni, the lower my enthusiasm for them becomes. I like simple symmetrical design and throwing a disk brake system on a unicycle seems to take that away. In this thread Pros/Cons to outer vs inner disc brakes? I read how disc brakes make wheel building much more complex. More things to break while riding, etc. Some complaints about difficult maintenence proceedures. Too bad rim brakes don’t seem to work all that well, as they do not interfere with the symmetry and simplicity of the rest of the uni. removing the brake system will leave you with unsymetrical parts.
I guess the thing to have is Muni’s with disk brakes for steep hill days. For flatter riding, custom made units with better parts than off the shelf offerings without brakes. Gives you a backup ride in case you damage your disc braked ride and fixing it gets complicated. I guess eventually I will probably eventually end up with a small fleet of very light brakeless tubeless titanium unicycles.
I am sure that eventually better brake systems will be available.
In our Muni group internal and external discs are used. All of the unis get flying around, same as the riders. 
I have not seen damaged discs or hurt ankles form the disc. Both versions work fine in practice. Choose what you like. As for the brake itself: A closed hydraulic system is almost maintenance free. Of course you will have to replace pads at a certain point, however that takes ages on a Muni.
For the rim I also do not like holes in them. There can be significant weight saving by making disc rims, as they do not need the thick sidewalls for the rim brake. This is what KH did on the new 2017 rims in 27,5 and 29 size (without holes). You can also check the MTB market for rims, however most of them are 32H (spoke holes) versions, while Munis typically have 36H.
As long as you don’t use the old chainsaw-like rotors from qu-ax (that caused the injury in the Italian forum it’s no problem. When my leg got caught by the rotor (only once in 4 years), only the skin was cut a little and not more. As slow as a unicycle wheel turns, the rotor has to be very very sharp to really cut deep. I now have two munis with outboard disc brakes and would not hesitate to chose it for my next one …
They’re not using this rotors any more.
If you’re searching for the evil, you will find it in everything.
If you take and outboard disc, your Wheel will still be symmetrical and the only unsymmetrical part is a tab on the frame and 6 little knobs with threaded hole in your right crank, when you remove the brake system. And if not: every (E-V-E-R-Y-!) bicycle rear wheel is not symmetrical! Nothing wrong with this. Why shall a rim brake be more simple? Brake performance and rubbing with rim brakes is affected by wheel truing, wheel flax, frame flex, mud on the rim, … Setting up a rim brake is not easier than to set up a disc brake. both are hydraulic brakes, nearly no maintenance, only changing pads. Couldn’t be any easier, hum? And for the pic: You can also destroy pedals, cranks, rims, tires, spokes, tubes, frames, seatposts and seat when you crash hard. So I’d suggest: remove all those parts and go for a walk, if you want it really simple.
Less engineering and more riding.
I was looking into buying a previous generation new old stock, I think it might have that disc on it. Good on them for "disc"ontinuing it.
If you purchase one with the old saw-like rotor, you can swap out the rotor as they’re not that expensive.
Good to know, thanks!
Speaking of evil:
Just because I am searvching for the UN"hole"Y, does not mean I am searching for Evil, yet. Once I get good at this, then I will be looking for Evil Wicked, and Nasty places to ride off road. So bad, might have to send in the preacher to do an exorcism just to make it safe enough. I do live on the North Shore where God (Kris Holm) honed his unicycle skills and machinery after all.
Great to know about the KH 27.5 and 29! I missed that. Thanks!
My original plan was to get half decent at the 19" Trials and then the 24" size. I have read that some people got the hang of it on their 19" and 20"ers, and then they had a very hard time going to the 24" inch size. I see some posts where some folks had 22" units custom made to help them get used to the gap.
The plan was to after getting somewhat capable on the 24" then look into buying another at the 26, 27.5 or 29 size. After getting comfortable with that, then think about going for a 36" behemoth if I felt so inspired.
Most of what I have read indicates that 19/20" size is usually the best size to learn on. A minority seemed to disagree but thought that a 24" was the best sized learner. I have also read that those best at technical mountain riding are usually choose 24".
At the moment I don’t care about speed, am more concerned with getting the skill. It’s still faster than walking.
If I were to buy a 27.5" with a brake, it would more than likely be the KH going by all the feedback and comments and what I know so far.
I should ask Kris Holm if the 24" will be available with the upgraded unholy tubeless rim in the near future.
I was looking for a way to upgrade my walks and hikes into something more interesting. A unicycle wheel takes more stress than a bicycle wheel, and I think an “average cyclist” does not need all the gears, suspension, and gizmos that new bicycles come with. Some of it might be useful, but it is mostly unnecessary stuff that makes them far more expensive and complex. Those doodads primarily benefit bike manufacturers, shops, and thieves.
A 22" wheel?? That’s crazy! Once you get your basic skills on a 20 (say, freemounting, idling, hopping, maybe riding backwards), you can ride any normal adult-sized wheel. Freemounting a larger wheel for the first few times can be tricky, but not enough to stop you from riding it, and sitting so high up can be a little scary at first, but if your skills are solid, you will adapt, probably within minutes. If you learn to properly ride your old KH20, your next uni can be a 29 if you want (mine was), or even a 36, or anything in between. Some of your skills may need to be re-learned on the larger wheel, others will transfer almost immediately, but just riding forward should not be any problem at all.
^this.
I actually used to be super nerdy about unicycle parts, and theorize about what is best, what crank length would be ideal because I found 140mm too long and 125mm too short, but now I just ride.
Don’t overthink. Get a mid tier uni, see what you like, and upgrade the parts you don’t like later. If your goal is cross country riding, get yourself a 29", and if it takes a while to make the switch, so be it, but a 24" is really not much faster than a 20". Cross bridges once you get to them, the ones you are seeing might not even exist.
The struggles people have are blown out of proportion on this forum, I mean, who is going to start a new thread, the guy having an issue and looking for help, or the guy who just transfered from a 20" to a 29" without issues? The difficulties people have are overrepresented.
[THREAD]115628[/THREAD]
A big deal has been made in the cycling world about 27.5 wheels, hyped as an advantage over 26. Then next size up is 29, 32. On the smaller wheels, 16, 18, 19, and 20. These are all pretty close in size, and important to have with a larger 4" gap in the middle.
Why?
So that bike companies can sell more bikes 
27.5/650B is not a new standard at all, it’s just been “rediscovered” recently by bike companies as a good sales gimmick.
Finnspin is correct. If you learn on a 20" and get reasonably good you can go straight up to anything.
I learnt and could ride a trials and 20". 4 months after learning I did my first muni on a borrowed 24 and it was fine. The next time I went I bought a 26" and rode that.
The biggest thing to get used to is that the 26 is further off the ground and therefore feels a little bit more scary (if you are the type who worries about injury) but there is no need to ride a 24 at all. No one really rides a 24 for muni now even if “technical”.
22’s are really annoying to build and expensive due to hardly any parts, there is no reason to ever need to go from a 20 -> 22 -> 24 ->26. The 22" barely even feels different from the 20. It will just waste your money. Only build a 22" if you want a middle performance for a type of riding that it may actually suit.
I built one for hockey and Jack Sebben rides one for street/flat.
I built it as it was a middle ground between 20’s-24’s in terms of speed:agility trade-off, Jack built it because it rolls easier than a 19 trials for landing down stairsets but the wheel doesnt have as much inertia negatively affecting his spins.
In terms of muni its not going to be useful.