The rotor is on the hub (internal) so cranks aren’t an issue. It’s a Nimbus Drift Trike hub which may not be what most people have but the relative difference may inform some decisions.
Observant aren’t I… lol 
clearence shouldnt be so much of an issue inboard. Outboard brakes really need to be skinny…
This is a good point. I run 180mm and 203mm rotors.
I found it pretty tight with a 160mm rotor and a pre recall Spyre and eyeballing it there might be an issue with that size rotor with a Spyke and an inboard rotor, at least with a 24" wheel. I’m not sure if a larger wheel would give it more clearance.
Anyone here can confirm me that the D-brake adapter works with the Schlumpf hub? 
I believe that Corbin modified one a year or two back to work with the schlumpf. I’m going to give it a try with mine.
Scott Wilton did it but broke a D-brake 1st generation, Nathan had it (adapted by Corbin I guess) but cannot remember if still rides it on his G36
This thread has turned into a more general purpose discussion of disc brakes so I’m posting this question here. I run mechanical disc brakes (TRP Spyre/Spyke) and I find that my cables eventually start to fray just under the ferrule where it fits into the lever. I just replaced one after about a year’s use because it prevented proper use of the brake. I have another one that’s frayed but not causing problems yet. I may put more torque than the average unicyclist on my brakes but I’m wondering if this happens to other people. Are there other types of cable which are less susceptible to this? The pad in my new Spyke seems grippier than the other pads I’ve been using so maybe that will alleviate the problem in the long term as long as I can get similar replacement pads. So far I’ve used:
Kool-Stop Disc Brake Pad for Shimano Deore M525
Clarks Shimano VRX811C Sintered Disc Brake Pad
For the amount you use your bake, freewheel and all that, how come you don’t have hydraulic disk brakes?
The freewheel unicycle I bought from Nurse Ben (which I’ve put the most miles on) originally came with a hydraulic disc brake but I didn’t like the feel of it and was concerned with maintenance issues (I am the opposite of handy) and durability (I have some wild UPDs). I have a hydraulic rim brake on my 36" freewheel and I’m not thrilled with that either. At some point in the future I may get my local bike shop to set up the hydraulic disc brake and I’ll try it out for a longer time but for now I’m really liking the Spyke.
what i got
TRP Spyre SLC with standard 160mm rotor, Avid FR-5 levers, Spirit 137/110mm on KH36. It all fits together beautifully with standard KH crank spacer, although there’s very little clearance between the caliper and the crank. I’m not planning to run it in mud, and it hasn’t been an issue so far (60kms hilly road rides, including about 10km unsealed roads). If necessary I was thinking I could file a couple mms from the inside of the Spirits without compromising them too badly.
I probably wouldn’t advise the SLCs though - the carbon arm requires a torx key for adjustment and a lower torque that is barely adequate to grip the cable. And although they’re both listed at 40mm wide, I can’t see how it can be as narrow as the basic Spyre because the carbon arm looks fatter in TRP’s pics. It’s difficult to measure now it’s installed.
I went with the Avid FR-5s because they’re cheaper, lighter and simpler than the speed dials. They’re presumably not as powerful, which I think’s a good thing at my level.
I’m thinking of downsizing to the Spirit 127/110 - does anyone know if this will fit as well as the 137/110s around the brake calliper?
The mountain bike version of the Spyre is now available, it’s called the Spyke.
I bought a set for my tandem, they differ some from the SpyresI have been using for the past year, having a dust shield on the exposed side of the pads and they have a rubber “hose” that keeps the cable clean.
The Spyke is slightly wider than my first generation Spyre, but doesn’t look like enough to make crank clearance a problem.
The Spyke feels much more solid than the Spyre, largely due to the pull being matched with the Speed Dial levers. I doubt they’ll be any stronger as it’s the same design, but I’m hoping it’ll take less effort to brake my tandem.
Maiden ride this weekend, if it goes well I’ll be replacing all of my Spyres with Spykes.
I have two Spykes although one may stay in the box until I resolve an issue with a broken hub. I like the Spyke a lot and ordered my second one after it survived a bad enough crash to bend a disc tab. My clearance is fine with my 180mm rotors.
Haven’t seen the Spyke yet, but until the Spyre starts giving me trouble, I’ll be sticking with that.
Currently every unicycle I own has a Spyre.
I tested the Spykes over the weekend on our mountain tandem and they were very strong, quiet, and smooth.
All my Spyres are going back for warranty replacement, then I’ll sell the new Spyres and replace them with Spykes.
The Spyke is plenty of brake, use it with a SPped Dial to adjust “feel”, no need to play around with hydraulics.
Just a thought, but you may get some decent cash selling the pre recall Spyres on here. I’m sure some would prefer the narrower size.
Inside or outside disc?
http://unicyclist.it/forum_forum.asp?forum=11§ion=65&post=16589&page=last#16601
keep the disc inside the frame!!
and choose a proper one
Holy crap, that looks nasty! 
I suppose if you’re gonna put a circular saw on the outside of your frame… 
It was on facebook some weeks ago, I suggested Qu-AX to stop supplying unis with such saw disc but no reply …
They also weld the Postmount at the wrong position, so that the brake pad is only half on the disc. We could not convince them to correct this fault …