Just mounted the Dialed dual-hole square taper cranks on the Big One. I bought the 152/127, but they also have a 140/110. Just grind off the collar holding the pressed on single chainring. I ground off a set of old pedal spindles to use as plugs for the unused holes…just left enough to get a pedal wrech on and screwed them in from the inside of the cranks. I figure this may add some rigidity when using the 152 holes and at least keep dirt out. Had to have my local Trek dealer order them for me. Total cost…$30 ( not bad at all ). If interested, part number for the 152/127 is W298798.
After reading this post I decided to pick up a set of these cranks for a 700c/28/29 road wheel that I have been planning to build. I got the shorter cranks, part number W292771, which turned out to be 140/120. The cranks are steel and the left crank weighed in at 15 3/8 oz. or about 436g. The price was the same as previously mentioned, $30 at the Trek dealer.
FYI, the cranks came with allen head bolts. So if you’re buying a new square taper hub, and you want allen bolts, don’t buy extra like I just did.
Good to know. I was a little bummed that my cranks were steel. Also that they were 120 instead of 110 on the inner pedal hole, but I knew that before I ordered. It was a special order, non-returnable, and I have already ordered the hub so I am just going to roll with it for now.
I ordered and received this set of cranks, and I’m quite disappointed because they have plenty of Q-factor, which was not obvious from the above photograph. You really could have mentioned that.
I measured them on a 100mm UDC crmo hub and compared it to a set of “zero q” steel cranks.
Trek Dialed 152/127: q=218mm (at outer eyelets)
straight no name steel cranks 127: q=186mm.
Edit: What I’d like to add - this cannot be ergonomic for children. It’s a puzzle for me why they make them like this.
Fwiw by your measure the offset is about 15mm’s, which is not abnormal for bike cranks. It’s not uncommon for trials bikes to have 25mm (an extra 50 of q to the spindle length. For the most part bikes have shorter spindles, by a good measure, than unicycles, so the q factors are much smaller.
As much as I like the zero offset of the Venture cranks the dual hole would be a welcome convenience. Let me know if you want to unload the cranks, l may be interested. It is too bad they are heavy steel. The 140/120 was the size I was looking for.
This is why I think the matter deserves attention. Road bikes are narrow enough down there that designers can choose the width between the pedals quite freely, and they choose narrow spacing. So narrow is probably better.
Lol, no you are not. I live in Germany.
I think I’ll see how they ride on my recumbent (the chainwheel is still there). As you said, bicycle spindles are more narrow. So in that case the width should still be acceptable…
The left crank of the 152/127 pair weighs 267g (compare to 436g above). This might make you reconsider the length…
Yeah, it would probably be too much to ship from Germany. I would have ordered the cranks a couple of years ago except that my local Trek dealer is terrible. I hate ordering anything through them. I have found that I like 140’s as a general purpose crank, and that 125’s are nice for a small set. Much shorter or longer than those sizes is too much work for me. So with that in mind I figured that the shorter Dialed cranks would just about fit the bill. I keep hoping to find an old Trek or Fisher kids bike that I can pull cranks off.
I looked into these a couple of years ago, and there was no online source. At the time Trek told me that they would not be available for sale, and that the only way I could get them would be to have a dealer order them as a replacement repair part. Of course my trek dealer said that they couldn’t do that and wouldn’t even try. So at the moment I would bet that the same is still true since they show the cranks on the bikes, but not as a part on the site.
Anyway, I’m pretty sure ISIS is not likely. It is a dead standard for the most part (uni’s and trials bikes aside).
They choose narrow - but typically still have about the same offset as these cranks rather than the zero of some uni cranks. That’s because there is a limitation with a bike - the width of the chainstays at the point the cranks pass them. Hence it’s possible cranks with less offset would have interference problems on some kids bikes (if anything it’s likely to be more of an issue on a kids bike as the shorter chainstays mean they’re even wider at the point the cranks pass).
In any case, as long as it’s not really silly, kids are actually quite flexible about the pedal spacing you give them.
BTW I did something similar with some cheap kids bike cranks (just single hole ones) to get 140 Square Taper cranks for use on my first generation Schlumpf.
I’ve just tried fitting the Dialeds to said recumbent (result: the spider rubs at one point), so I took the opportunity to also measure its original crankset (which is a roadbike pair) on the udc hub. Its offset is 9.5mm opposed to the 16mm of the Dialed crankset. More than I expected, to be sure (on a 170mm crankset it doesn’t look so much).
I like the dialed cranks on my road uni. I would guess that they would be fine for light XC, or smooth single track. To be honest, I would just look for a couple of sets of nicer ST cranks. The Dialed cranks are not high quality even by bike standards. Decent ST cranks can be pretty strong.