I’m wondering if anyone has found a good cyclometer for uni use? I’m thinking a wired model wouldn’t be safely visible while riding (without mounting on a bar).
Do any of the wireless models give enough distance between the display and sensor unit, that you could wear the display like a watch? I would like to track speed, distance and elapsed times of my rides.
I’ve looked at the Garmin GPS units, and they’re kind of pricey.
Cr
Think about investing in a T7 handle
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=973
If you are in the market for a computer, I would imagine you are riding a bit of distance and goin for speed, both of will be improoved with the T7, but most of all you can mount yer computer right there, easy to see.
i suppose if you did distance riding it might be useful.
I was going to suggest the GB4 handle, but apparently UDC doesn’t have it anymore. The T7 that agentQ suggested looks just as good though (probably better actually).
I use the Cateye Enduro 8, which I got from my LBS for I think thirty dollars on sale…it’s really really good, like all cateye products.
You need to set the diameter of the wheel in any cyclometer you get, and sometimes they don’t go up to 36". The Enduro 8 does though. But if it doesn’t, you can put two magnets on it and set it for 18" instead, I’ve heard that works.
Unfortunately the way wireless computers work means you can’t wear them like a watch, they have to be very close to vertically above the sender unit. You can put them in your pocket and look at your data at the end of your ride, but this is no good for current speed. Personally I have a wired model mounted in the middle of my T7, very easy to read and play with while riding. You can also get GPS watch systems that offer no navigational aid, just your speed distance time etc. and these are cheaper than the garmins.
On my old Torker LX I had a pretty basic cycle computer mounted just below the seat. Of course I couldn’t read it to see the current speed, but it was nice to at least be able to check the distance covered and top speed after a ride. Actually, I should put one on my new uni come to think of it.
Hey thanks for that. I knew that some computers didn’t work with a 36" wheel but using two magnets is such a simple solution it is genius!
I just bought a wireless cyclometer and installed it, but the guy at the LBS said he’s not sure that the setting he chose for the computer to get the correct and accurate readouts for MPH and distance is totally accurate. The instructions are not very specific or that helpful in setting it up, and the widest 24" tire on the list is only 1.75.
So he had me ride it one full revolution (he said it’s better to have my weight on it for a more accurate reading) then measured the distance (in mm since that’s what’s referenced in the instructions) and then set the computer accordingly. But when I rode the uni later it seemed to rack up 1 mile pretty quickly, so I have my doubts that the setting is accurate.
The tech also said that you have to take the sidewall height into consideration too, so I’m really confused as to how to input the right info. If anyone can chime in with the best formula for measuring/setting the computer that would be a great help! Thanks. Oh, I have a KH 24 muni with a 3" Gazz.
Measuring the rollout should be reasonably accurate, you could try doing it for more than one rotation and then dividing to increases the accuracy. Or you can just measure the total diametre with a ruler and mulitply it by 3.141. The two should come out roughly the same, and be within probably 10% of the real value.
I’m a little confused as to how these work. I’m going to get shorter cranks and a T7 for my coker as soon as I can afford it…I figure I’d get a cyclocomputer to mount on the handle too. Can someone explain how it works in a very simple matter? You put magnets on the spokes?
Ok, there’s a small magnet that attaches to one of the spokes. A small plastic box containing a reed switch is fixed to the frame, so the magnet passes really close to it as it goes round. A reed switch is basicaaly a really sensitive switch so the magnet pulls the switch closed each time it goes round. This allows the computer to time how long it takes for one revolution, and because you input the wheel size it can work out time and distance. Is that simple enough?
On my old 26" uni I had a normal wired bike computer, but attached the display part to one of the clip bits of a retracting key fob thing that waitresses use. The other end of the key fob was in turn attached to the seat post. In normal operation it would hang limply out of the way under the seat, but I could easily pull it out to read it when needed, and let go and it would whiz back under the seat again.
STM
Yup thanks for clearing that up. I meant to say a brief explanation, not simple. But that suits the brief requirement as well. Does a wire run from the computer to the “reed switch”?
Glad that cleared it up, yes a simple 2 core wire runs from the sensor to the computer mount. Computers are made so you can remove them from the mount to stop them getting nicked, there are two sprung pins to make the electrical contact to the computer so it can just slide off like a bike light.
Oh thats cool. The loose wire isn’t too much of a hassle on a unicycle is it? Oh, and does the reed switch slide out of a mount…so there is no wire when the computer isn’t mounted?
Ok I just measured my total diameter including the Gazz, and it measured 25.5". So that translates to 2035 mm. That is significantly lower than what the tech at the LBS came up with, but I think he also factored in the tire width. Not sure if you’re supposed to do that; the instructions don’t mention that at all.
This is the one I got…it’s on sale at Performance for $19.95
http://www.abc-of-mountainbiking.com/shopitems/cyclometer/deltavwireless-cyclometer.asp
No the reed switch, wire and computer mount remain on the uni all the time. You can tuck spare wire away under the saddle, but with an N36 and a T7 handle I only have about an inch spare. You can see all the bits here.
These things work purely by circumference, knowing how far you go for each revolution. Width makes no difference, maybe the guy was trying to factor up from the widest 24" in the booklet to a 3", wider tyres are genreally taller. The fact that you had the wheel size programmed in much larger than it is would explain why your mile went by so quickly.
haha that’s what I thought too! Thanks for your help.
Ah, it’s nice to see a picture. I’m definitely going to have to buy one of these (when I can afford it).
