Just a little video showing Isis and square crank removal using a “Park” universal crank remover, with handle. There was a thread about the best tool and correct way to do it, so I thought this might help.
The regular park ISIS crank puller can also be used for square taper cranks. I could not find my puller for square taper a while back and just decided to remove the foot on the ISIS puller. All I needed was a tiny little allan key (I think about 1.5mm)
So if you have only one puller you can get away with the regular ISIS puller without dishing out the extra dough for the universal one.
and shouldn’t this be in “Unicycling Articles and Tutorials”?
It probably “should” be, but I’m glad it’s here. I don’t check the tutorials as often.
The large size isis button will not go through the square taper opening. Does your “regular” puller (designed only for the isis?) have a removable button/disc? You mentioned a “foot”; is that another name for the disc? If it’s removable, then it is made for both isis and square. (And I thought it would be ok to post it in this forum, but maybe Gilby could move this to the tutorial forum.)
I’d say it’s not necessarily that it doesn’t belong here, it’s that it ALSO belongs over there… but then cross-posting is just as big a sin as mis-posting in some communities, so elefino which is the lesser of two evils in this case
I just thought it would be seen by more people here, and thus be put to better use for those who had/have questions about crank removal and the tools used for it. To be honest, I didn’t even think about the “tutorial” forum, and forgot there even was one, lol. I’m here in RSU and the vid section 99% of the time I visit the uni forum, so some of the less-seen forums are like, “out of sight, out of mind.”
The answer to every question about Crank Extractor!
Did you know you wrote Sqaure instead of Square at the beginning of the video?
Haha! Yes, but I had already uploaded it by the time I noticed it! At least I was able to correct the error in the title heading on youtube. I’ve been making lots of mistakes like that lately; must be age catching up with me. (Guess I’ll have to just run faster!):o
Edit: I used YT annotations to superimpose the correct spelling over the misspelled “sqaure” in the opening title.
Thanks for the tutorial!
I’m embarassed to admit it, but I’d never bothered to figure out how to remove my cranks before this:o
yah by foot I mean button/disk. Tomato, tomato.
It is not supposed to be removed but is assembled in a way that makes it easy to take off.
I have both a Park Tool ISIS puller and square taper puller. They are identical except for the foot/button/disk.
You could also use a square taper puller for an ISIS setup if you put a proper sized washer or coin in between the foot/button/disk and the axle.
I guess I should have said “hey you should also post this in the tutorials section for posterity” Then they would find it if they search only that forum using the advanced search feature on here (saves you a lot of unrelated hits).
Changed my default 127 for 114 Qu-ax cranks
Used a non ISIS crank removal tool -
Placed a 5 pence inside to make it work -
Had no issues… worked like a charm! Thanks for the tutorial!
There was a bit of a lightbulb moment there for me when it said you should change crank positions to even out tyre wear- I would never have thought of doing that rather than shifting the tyre round.
Yep, it’s also good for the wheel as the spokes that get most stress change position.
There are good reasons to remove the cranks. E.g. bearing change or change of disc if needed. If tire wear is an issue I would for sure not remove the crank. Especially square ones do not get better by mounting several times. Also ISIS are tapered and I would not remove and reinstall without necessity.
I once came across a post by Roger at UDC UK which mentioned not to rotate cranks. He also said they should be placed a certain way. Either away from the rim seam or on it (can’t remember). I’ll search to see if I can find that thread.
That’s probably one of those subjects where there’s no right or wrong. I had never come across Roger’s point, though there is logic to it. And interestingly, on the thread you linked, someone mentioned that it’s recommended to do it on the KH Instructions for Use:
- [B][U]After Every 30 - 40 Rides:[/U][/B]
- Every 30-40 rides, remove the cranks and clean and regrease the axle. Rotate the wheel by 1/4 turn before reinstalling the cranks, to change the force concentrations on the spokes and increase the life of your wheel. Clean and re-grease all bolts, and rotate your tire by 1/4 turn to prevent concentrations of wear on one part of the tire. Check that the wheel is true and there is appropriate tension in your spokes.
My freestyle uni has a hub with external thread and a nut to tighten the cranks.
I have a ISIS/Square taper crank removal tool with the removable button. But without the button it is not usable for this kind of hub as the hubs threadet bolt goes partly into the hole where the button sits normally and the crank remover would not push onto the bolt itself but only on the thread and destroy it. It was also not usable with the button installed, because the outer diameter of the button was bigger as the inner diameter of the part that screws into the crank and so the button could not be screwed far enough back into the outer part.
So I decided to do a little turning and reduce the outer diameter of the button. Now it works fine!
Yeah, I suppose so. I was surprised by Roger’s comment but it does fit my lazy maintenance regime.
This is how it looked before:
I also agree about not rotating the cranks (though hadn’t ever realised there was a specific orientation they should be - as I’m about to replace the cranks on my trials uni I guess I’ll put them in Roger’s recommended orientation). No advantage I can see given the rotating the tyre should be quicker, and the issue of crank wear. Unless you do a lot of hopping, then the difference in the stress loading on the spokes is pretty minor, as most of it comes from your weight on the wheel from just riding along, which is evenly distributed on all spokes as the wheel rolls.